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October 2008
Dias de los Muertos Goodies
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
DIAS DE LOS MUERTOS: Get your sugar skulls on
Photo courtesy of the Reynolds Group
If you’re looking for a way to celebrate Mexico’s Day of the Dead holiday this weekend, head to Star Provisions for one of pastry chef Luis Vasquez’s beautifully decorated sugar or chocolate skulls. Another treat is pan de muertos, a fluffy, sweet pastry bun decorated with a cross-bow of dough to look like bones — available at most Latin markets, but definitely part of the celebration of the many La Suprema Panaderias across the area (call 678-797-1120 for locations).
Rumors … Aquaknox chef William Sigley is purportedly working for Tom Catherall at his new Aja, opening on November 7 … Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Market opens November 17 with Ian Winslade helming the kitchen (he will still be at Spice Market, too).
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Have You Ever Cooked on Your Car Engine?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
OUT OF THE FIRE AND INTO THE ENGINE: get out of that kitchen and rattle some pots and pans
Photo: DaimlerChrysler
I’m certain that at some point in his many years of single life, my husband cooked on his Jeep’s engine (he’s never admitted to it, but then, I don’t think I’ve ever asked him outright). I just recall a conversation about the possibilities of cooking on a car engine that leads me to believe it might be so…
If true, and even if not, he’s not alone — a cookbook, “Manifold Destiny” (Simon & Schuster, November18, 2008, $14). It’s actually not a new cookbook, but a re-issue from the authors, Chris Maynard and Bill Scheller ( the original published in 1989, from a People magazine feature). The recipes — goodies like ‘rest-stop grade F meat patty” and “hot dog surprise” — have been updated and revised, and tips such as “never put anything where it will interfere with the free movement of the accelerator linkage” are sure to entice even the most reticent of road trippers.
I’m ready to try “thruway thighs” on my next trip. Have you ever cooked on your car’s engine?
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Are Burgers the Next Craze?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
ARE BURGERS THE NEXT BIG THING? Photo courtesy of Hardee’s
With Flip opening soon, and The Counter already open in Roswell, it’s becoming apparent that boutique burgers have arrived.
The Counter’s concept greets you with a clipboard and allows you to have it your way — with over 300,000 combinations derived from four different meats (one veggie, actually), 12 types of cheese, 28 toppings (including dried cranberries, fried eggs and carrot strings), 18 sauces and three types of buns. It’s cool, candid and casual, easy on the eyes and pocket book.
Flip will go a little more gourmet, with custom-made milk shakes (like Krispy Kreme flavored) and upscale, unctuous meats and toppings — all designed by Richard Blais of Top Chef fame.
My jury is out, but with the economy in the state it is, this comfort-crazy, gastro-pub-inspired, inexpensive food phase might catch on big. Is it trend, or fad?
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More on Tipping
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A reader sent this to me over the weekend about my blog entry last Friday on tipping; I thought it more than appropriate — ashamed I didn’t think of it myself, and humbled to share it here. So, thanks Mary Jo, for sharing.
“I think the thing that surprised me most was that not one comment was made about contacting management to comment on exceptional service by a server. Unfortunately, I believe that servers and management only hear complaints. As a former educator, I found that parents were shocked when I would call them to share good news about their son or daughter’s academic progress or achievement. Students love to hear the good in their academic lives. My personal philosophy has been to report good news to management, not just complaints. I tell the employee I will do so, and then I do it. To me, it just seems the responsible thing to do. The employee, the manger and I all feel good about our interaction. I believe it encourages each of us to try harder in our daily lives to be more worthy of such experiences.”
And Jason, from Doraville, also asks: Do you tip based on the total of the entire bill, or do you tip MINUS the wine you ordered? What if the wine was very expensive?
The answer: You should tip based on the total amount of the bill, including wine, regardless of how expensive the bottle was. Servers are responsible for wine service as well as food service.
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Is NOT Tipping Ever Appropriate?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
IS IT EVER APPROPRIATE TO NOT TIP YOUR SERVER? I say no ….
Photo: Phil Skinner/AJC
Chow.com has an interesting forum commenting about tipping: Is it ever appropriate to NOT tip?
What’s the worse thing that could happen to you in a restaurant? The waiter spills a drink on you and offers no apology. You’re called names. Your meal never comes. You slip on a grease spill and break your leg. Aliens abduct you and force feed you sea cucumbers.
Fill in your own blank here, but I don’t feel that it’s ever appropriate to leave absolutely nothing — no matter how bad your service was. This week’s review takes a look at Buckhead’s beloved steakhouse, Hal’s, where good service is not a problem. This wait staff is the kind regulars know by name, and who take pride in waiting on tables.
But what’s the deal if you get bad service? Leave 10% instead of 20%? Do you leave a good tip and talk to the manager? Do you leave nothing at all?
Here’s what I do: I leave a tip in the amount appropriate to the percentage of the bill. I let the wait person know DURING the dining experience that I’m not satisfied with something (except how the food tastes — waiters have nothing to do with how the food tastes). How the food is prepared is a different story. But give a server the chance to make what’s wrong right for you. When they don’t, forget to, don’t care or perhaps are also abducted by aliens, then ask them why they didn’t.
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Private Dining Rooms
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
FAB OFFERS LOTS OF PRIVATE DINING OPTIONS: where’s your favorite?
Photo: Rich Addicks/AJC
I’m often asked by readers where the best private dining rooms are for family get togethers or corporate parties. It’s a very good question and one, oddly enough, I’m not very equipped to answer.
Oh sure, I know what restaurants in the city have private rooms for dining. But I’ve never eaten in any of them — since my experience is supposed to duplicate that of a Joe or Jane Diner, the private dining areas in restaurants are off limits to me. Still, I take notice when a room looks impressive: I love the flowing glow of fabric that separates one of the private dining areas from the main dining room at Room at Twelve; FAB has lots of private dining options, the best is the rooftop’s view of Atlanta’s rapidly growing skyline. Repast has a private area upstairs, so does Trois (with lots of room, and another great view); Bones has lots of options for private dining, though I’d miss the hustle and bustle of the main dining area of this restaurant; MF Buckhead has private dining upstairs.
Have you dined in any of Atlanta’s private dining rooms? If so, where? What did you like or dislike?
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What’s Appropriate Table Behavior for Your Child?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WHAT’S A KID TO DO? What table behaviors are appropriate when you’re dining out?
Photo: Charlotte B. Teagle/AJC
I’ve made no secret of the fact that I have an 11-year-old daughter, and that she dines out with me from time to time. Sometimes it’s just the two of us, other times it’s with my entire family. Since I got married, it’s often the three of us.
As she’s gotten older, she doesn’t need as much attention at the table and is often as much a part of the dinner conversation as the adults around her. But sometimes she needs a distraction, especially if it’s a long meal where things aren’t arriving from the kitchen promptly.
I’ve been adamant about laying down the law of what’s appropriate and what’s not at a dinner table: no Nintendo playing, no reading — I think both of these encourage anti-social behavior because she can avoid making conversation, which is a skill that needs to be honed by taking part. And conversation should be as much a part of dining as eating.
But I’m fine with her bringing puzzles or gamebooks filled with crosswords and word searches. Our favorite is hang man. Games allow her to interact with other people at the table yet let her feel she’s doing something she wants to do — and it helps pass the time for her. Of course, bringing a friend along at her age is a nice solution to her possibly getting bored, too.
What types of things do you allow your children to do at the table when you are dining out? What do you feel is appropriate? What isn’t?
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Where’s Your Favorite Sparkling Cocktail?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I visited Aria a month or so back for the fall Dine Guide and had an absolutely mesmerizing sparkling cocktail made with Prosecco and Concord grape juice — it was just the right blend of tang and sweetness, with that effervescent punch of sparkling wine that I love. Totally slurpable.
Seems that bartenders and chefs are discovering that Cava and Prosecco are as exciting as Champagne, and for the drinker, both are much cheaper. Vodka makers are cashing in on the sweetness, too, and the appeal these types of drinks have for the “Sex and the City” set who have moved on from the so-five-minutes-ago Cosmo. One of the latest, just in time for the holidays of course is a “sparkling liqueur” called NUVO L’esprit de Paris, which touts itself as the world’s first.
Not surprisingly, the ad campaign is all about women, drenched in pink and black touting the flavor as vodka with sparkling wine blended with fruit nectars. The bottle looks like a vase of pink perfume.
Have you tried sparkling cocktails? If so, are you a girl or a guy? Where’s your favorite?
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Monday Musings
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Scattered thoughts today about lots of unrelated stuff. First, I’m behind on dining out … this job is tough to keep up with.
Second, I tried a new yogurt (I am a yogurt freak) over the weekend and was very impressed. Chobani is a Greek yogurt sold at Whole Foods, but what makes it different from Fage (another brand of Greek yogurt sold in the USA) is that in addition to being fat free (Fage offers fat free, too), it’s got 14 grams of protein — which is, like, TWICE what most yogurts contain. And it’s got that uber creamy texture Greek yogurt is so famous for. So for those of us trying to beef up on protein, these eight ounces are pure goodness.
Another thing you might want to check out is this week’s two showings of documentary filmmaker Darryl Roberts’ “America the Beautiful,” a docu that focuses on America’s obsession with beauty. This from the press release:
“In 2004, America spent $12.4 billion on cosmetic surgery, but the true cost of America’s obsession with youth, beauty and a slender physique is tallied in an epidemic of eating disorders, complications and death from unnecessary surgeries, exposure to dangerous toxins in cosmetics, and most disturbingly, the equally toxic effects on generation after generation of young people.
How did we get this way? Who is harmed by our quest for perfection? And who is profiting from encouraging the insecurities that fuel that quest?”
Experts from the fashion industry, advertising executives, plastic surgeons and ordinary men, women and teens all speak about their experiences with an obsession with thinness and beauty. As someone who suffers from anorexia nervosa, this film is one I’d like to see. Ironically, I’ll be on dine outs for the AJC on both nights.
Here’s the 411:
LANDMARK MIDTOWN ART CINEMA 931 Monroe Dr NE Atlanta, GA 30308 (678) 495-1424
Wednesday, October 22, 2008 @ 7 p.m. Thursday, October 23, 2008 @ 7 p.m.
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Where’s the best fried catfish?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
BAILEY’S IN POWDER SPRINGS FRIED CATFISH PLATE: what restaurants serve this Southern specialty?
Seems like every New Englander in the Atlanta area read my review of Legal Sea Foods and has something to say about my use of the word ‘scrod’ as a New England term for cod.
Scrod is young cod or haddock, and the word is rarely used outside New England. All are fluffy white fish perfect for batter frying.
The whole experience had me jonesing for a Southern specialty rarely seen these days —fried catfish. (Legal actually has it on their menu as a sandwich). Why has this hot-fired and curled-at-the-edges classic vanished from local menus? Seems like I never see fried catfish much anymore unless I visit a church supper or community fish fry (there’s one downtown on Auburn Avenue most Fridays) — both of which are also looking smaller and smaller in that rear view mirror of things we used to love.
What restaurants do you know of serve fried catfish?
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A New Dairy Dreams Big
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Sweet Grass Diary in Thomasville, Ga., has made a name for itself for the fine, hand-crafted cheeses it produces. Many of Atlanta’s finest restaurants use SGD’s cheese on their menus.
The dairy’s sweet success story has also paved the way in part for other artisanal dairies in the state to come into the limelight. I first tasted the cheese of Flat Creek Lodge Dairy in Swainsboro while covering the exit of chef Michael Tuohy from Woodfire Grill. Always the maverick when it came to product, Tuohy had gotten hold of some of the dairy’s hand-made cheddar and was using it on his cheese tasting for his final dinner. Tangy and creamy, it’s a perfect match for some of fall’s greatest gifts, such as figs and squash.
Pano’s & Paul’s will be hosting a wine cellar event featuring some of the cheeses of FCLD on Thursday, October 23 from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. The owners of the dairy, Steve and Caroline Harless, will be on hand, as well as cheesemaker Dane Huebner. The cost is $35 per person. For more information call Carrie Whitney at 404-822-1078. Some of FCLD’s cheeses are also available at Whole Foods in Buckhead.
Have you tasted these two dairies’ cheeses? What do you think?
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Where’s Your Favorite Slice?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A few pizza spots opening in the area:
Varasano’s Pizzeria will open in the spa-inspired residential building Mezzo in Midtown/Buckhead. Varasano is the internet/engineer/pizza/guru/dude who “engineered” the perfect Bronx pizza though rigorous trial and error and, apparently, lots of house parties in his Buckhead home.
Early November will bring Pizzeria Venti, the chain from Florida, to Lenox Village shopping center in Buckhead. This is the first of this fast-casual concept with pasta, pizza and gelato to open in the Atlanta area.
Pizza Fusion, the uber green chain “saving the world one pizza at a time” is opening five stores in the area, the first on Peachtree near H & F Bread Company. This joint does everything from recycling the heat from their ovens to heat their water to making their sinks out of green-friendly bamboo. Crazy.
I welcome the slices, one and all. Nothing gets a girl through like a mean slice of pizza. Meanwhile I’ll head to Baraonda for a thin slice with nothing but cheese, or Floatway Cafe (the city’s best-kept secret on pizza) for a wood oven-fired slice of margherita. Maybe I’ll head to Rosa’s on Broad Street downtown for a New Jersey reality check. I could head to Fritti for a gooey slice of quattro formaggi. Nevermind — I’m staying in and noshing on Mellow Mushroom’s sausage and wathing a Coen Brothers movie.
Where’s your favorite slice?
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What Restaurateurs Would You Roast? Or Toast?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
PLEASE NOTE: David Abes, director of operations for Here to Serve Restaurants, let me know that H2S proudly employs chef Peter Kaiser, not Buckhead Life, as I mention below. Thanks to David, and my apologies to Peter.
GEORGE MCKERROW, JR. is one of four roasted restaurateurs
Photo: Special to the AJC
On November 17 the Atlanta Community Food Bank will host a first-ever roast-and-toast of four key Atlanta restaurateurs: Pano Karatassos (founder of Buckhead Life restaurant group), Bob Amick (founder of Concentrics Hospitality), Tom Catherall (founder of Here to Serve restaurants) and George McKerrow, Jr. (founder of LongHorn Steakhouse and co-founder of Ted’s Montana Grill).
The event begins at 6 p.m. at the Food Bank’s 732 Joseph E. Lowery Blvd., N.W. address, where the warehouse space will be transformed for the evening into a “red carpet environment.” The three-course meal and dessert reception will be cooked by Buckhead Life chef Peter Kaiser, Rathbun’s Kevin Rathbun, Aria’s Gerry Klaskala and Concentric’s Jonathan St. Hilaire. The evening is hostessed by Atlanta magazine restaurant critic Christiane Lauterbach and former CNN reporter Carolyn O’Neil.
Tickets for “4 Legends of Atlanta Hospitality Roast” are $500 per person. Visit here or call 678-538-9000 for more info.
What Atlanta restaurateur would you roast? or toast?
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What Cocktails do the Candidates Drink?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Okay, I totally stole this idea from a press release I got last week touting the candidates as spices and giving recipes for each from The Spice Hunter.
But with the economy the way it is, I don’t need spice, baby. I need a well-made drink.
What cocktail would the Presidential and Vice Presidential candidates drink?
John McCain: While it’s tempting to tout McCain’s tough demeanor, he’s got to have his pussycat side — you know — the side he’ll save just for those late night brainstorming sessions with Sarah in the Oval Office? So rather than choose the obvious, like a stiff shot of good Kentucky bourbon, McCain’s softer side begs for something a little less obvious: How about a good, old-fashioned rusty nail? Sure, it’s scotch pure and simple, but with a nip of Drambuie.
Barack Obama: Obama’s sense of balance vs. versatility begs for further investigation. I mean - what is he really thinking? For all we know he could be tallying Michelle’s last shopping spree. But for the candidate who has everything, Obama needs a cocktail with a subtle kick and twist: a classic gin and tonic — with a twist of lime and some top shelf gin.
Sarah Palin: She may not be able to spell cocktail, but my guess is she can probably drink one. Short and sweet: Cherry-flavored Jell-O shots. They’re fun, flavorful and cheery. And gosh, Jell-O jiggles!
Joe Biden: Nothing sweet for this tough guy. But dangit Delawarians, shouldn’t we get a few vitamins digested as we drink? That seems prudent: A bloody Mary, with lots of horseradish (it clears the sinus cavity!). And bartender, make it a double with lots of celery and olives.
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Wanna Save Gas? These Cheap Eats Are on the MARTA Rail Line
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
DUCK’S COSMIC KITCHEN: Small, but sassy. And they’re just a walk away from the Avondale MARTA station.
Photo: Brant Sanderlin/AJC
I spent over two hours week before last getting my car filled with gas. Makes a girl think. Since we’re all conserving — not just gas, but cash these days — my thoughts led me to MARTA. Yes, MARTA. After looking at Metro Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority’s rail line, I realized that there are some very good cheap eats to get to with MARTA as the pilot. I’ll serve as co-pilot for now — feel free to add your own to the list:
On the Red-Orange Line, which runs North/South and Northeast/South:
Stop S6 College Park — drop in at the Brake Pad, right on Main Street, and have some fun pub grub and a beer.
Stop S5 East Point — breakfast or lunch at Thumbs Up Diner includes fat, whole wheat biscuits with house-made preserves or a fluffy omelette the size of your head.
Heading still north, switch at Five Points to the Blue-Green Line and head East towards Inman Park.
Stop E3 Inman Park Reynoldstown — drop into Krog Bar for a glass of wine and some fine bar nibbles.
Stop E6 Decatur — Duck’s Cosmic Kitchen (just a walk away from the Avondale Station, E7) has wonderful house-baked breads and pastries, plus a full menu of munchables.
Moving North from Five Points, head to Midtown, where there are a plethora of options.
Stop N4 Midtown — The pie’s the limit here, with pizza options at Baraonda, or a quick walk to Myrtle Street for a bite at Top FLR.
Heading towards the suburbs, walking once off the rail line is certain, but still doable. Look at it this way — you can have dessert since you’ve already walked it off.
Stop N9 Red North-South Dunwoody — Around Perimeter Mall there are lots of options, but I’d vie for a panini at Alon’s, where you can eat outside and enjoy a second scoop of the house-made gelati.
Moving North on the Orange Rail, head to NE8 Brookhaven/Oglethorpe and walk a short bit to Valenza, where you’ll feast on Italian without having to break the bank.
Know any spots you’d like to add? You can find more tips on eating well for less, suggestions for cheap or free entertainment and general ways to cope with the economy at Your Money.
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I Want Candy
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
For months the sign, decorated as a giant, old-fashioned lollipop, promised “nuts, candy, gifts …. FUN.” With the former, how could the latter not follow?
Last week, the mystery shop finally opened: Greene’s Fine Foods at 141 East Trinity Place in Decatur. On our way to an after-school scoop of DQ, my daughter and I were sidetracked by the allure of red and green balloons and the “just opened” sign.
Inside, Greene’s is a Willy Wonka-esque emporium of nuts, dried fruits, fudge and CANDY. Lots of it. Jars and jars of it. This place is huge, and it’s the Santa’s workshop of candy. We tried maple fudge and Grand Marnier-dusted chocolate-covered pecans ( an OMG experience).
There’s also daily flavors of frozen yogurt, doled out in three sizes by worker-bee types who are happier than ever to sprinkle raspberry-flavored gummie goos all over your swirl of vanilla or strawberry.
Candy is hot — almost as hot as cupcakes.
Others in the area to try:
A spot I haven’t been able to check out yet, but am intrigued to make it to — Chocolaterie in Douglasville, located in the Avenue Forsyth (GA 400 North at exit 13), where the truffles and chocolates are handmade, plus there are chocolate shots and other imports. As soon as I can get a full tank of gas, I’m headed their way.
Maison Robert has long been a favorite in the area (the original shop opened in 1977) — the amazing chocolates here are hand formed and hand dipped by chef Robert Reeb, a third-generation French pâtissier-confiseur. Easter and Christmas are musts.
Chocolate Pink Cafe always has a few fine chocolates on hand in addition to the incredibly dainty pastries at this Midtown marvel.
Teuscher, the world-renowned Swiss chocolatier, has a shop in Atlanta in Morningside/VA-HI. Try the Champagne truffles made with Dom Perignon. Cheers.
Where’s your favorite local candy store?
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This Just In …
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
ATLANTA’S RUNNING LOW ON CUBAN FOOD: Havana’s scrumptious Cuban sandwich
Photo: Jean Shifrin/AJC
Two important closings this morning, at least temporarily: Havana Sandwich Shop, a landmark that has been serving Cuban food for over 30 years, is the victim of fire this morning. Police are still determining the cause, but the blaze appears to have started in rubbish outside the building. With a sister store now in Canton, will the owners reopen on Buford Highway? I hope so… Between Havana and Kool Korners closings, we’ve got limited options for Cuban food in the area these days.
And more rumblings at the Globe in Midtown: It will close its doors October 10. No word yet if Fifth Group, which had taken over management of the hip spot in Technology Square, will continue its relationship with the owners, Gateway Development. It’s rumored that talented chef Joshua Perkins is looking for work outside Atlanta and that the owners will reopen with a new concept after the first of the year.
Change is good? We’ll see.
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Super Chef Santiago at Cafe 458
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
CHEF HECTOR SANTIAGO OF PURA VIDA: He’s a good samaritan
Photo: Provided by Hector Santiago
Hector Santiago, chef owner of Pura Vida in Poncey-Hi, is adding to his list of accomplishments the title of guest chef at Cafe 458 this Thursday evening.
Santiago is the first guest chef to be welcomed by Café 458, the restaurant that supports the Samaritan House of Atlanta, a nonprofit agency whose mission is to help homeless men and women achieve self-sufficiency. All the proceeds for meals prepared go directly to the organization; hopes are to work with many more guest chefs in the future.
Dinner will be served from 5:30 - 8:30 pm and reservations are required. Click here for more information or call 404-525-3276.
The meal, at $28 per person, is a steal, and includes Hanson’s farm heirloom tomato “ceviche” with goat milk cuajada (curd), grilled caribe adobo hanger steak with cilantro chimichurri and aji amarillo papitas and passion fruit, raspberry and Venezuelan Chocolate tart for dessert.
Johnathan Metellus, Cafe 458’s chef, reached out personally to Santiago who saw “a real benefit” to working with Cafe 458.
What chef do you feel contributes most to charitable causes?
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Dogwood Dazzles
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
FAB STANDS FOR FABULOUS DINING DOWNTOWN
Photo: Becky Stein/Special to the AJC
With all the hullabaloo about the AJC’s fall dining guide, it would be easy to miss out on this week’s review of Dogwood, a sophisticated new spot on Peachtree Street downtown.
The economic downturn (who made up that phrase? a politician …? can we just say depression?) may halt further growth downtown this year, but so far the city’s most hallowed streets have become the it place to be these days — lots of restaurants have opened near the Aquarium and Coke Museum in the past two years. And now Dogwood, reviving Peachtree Street. Have food, will travel.
What do you think of downtown dining?
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Learning the Benefits of Eating Well
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
CHEF LINTON HOPKINS will be on hand at “BE WELL 2008” at E. Rivers Elementary in Buckhead. Here, he shows the menu from his restaurant, Restaurant Eugene, which boasts a list of local farmers and purveyors from where he gets his goods.
Photo: Joey Ivansco/AJC
E. Rivers Elementary School in Buckhead will hold a wellness fair tomorrow, beginning in the carpool line where parents and staff can receive free blood screenings and cholesterol checks from Dr. Jack Dawson, a Peidmont Hospital cardiologist.
Another volunteer is chef-owner Linton Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene, Holeman & FInch and H & F Bread Company, who is an E. Rivers parent. Hopkins will be teaching the benefits of eating organically, a creed he adheres to well at his restaurants.
For more info about “Be Well 2008” call David White, E. Rivers principal, at 404-802-7050.
Speaking of Eugene, it’s just one of 50 of the top 50 restaurants I chose for this year’s fall dining guide, which published today in accessAtlanta, along with my picks for the AJC’s 2008 restaurant of the year, Tierra. Read it all here.
Do you agree with the list? What would you add? Take off?
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My Top Five New Restaurants So Far
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
CUERNO OWNER RICCARDO ULLIO KNOWS HOW TO HAVE FUN : here he drinks cava from a peron
Photo: Becky Stein/Special to the AJC
The AJC’s fall DIne Guide has arrived, and with it my picks for the top 50 restaurants of the year and my pick for Restaurant of the Year 2008, Tierra. You can read all about it here.
This year was the toughest ever for picking the top 50: in addition to old favorites, Atlanta had a watershed of new openings in 2008. I had to remove a few spots that warrant high praise to give some of these newcomers a chance to shine.
Here are my favorite new openings, so far:
Holeman & FInch — the meat-centric team from Restaurant Eugene has finally brought Atlanta its very first gastropub, no souse barred. From the well-crafted drinks to the very last smear of house-made BBQ sauce over your pig’s feet, Holeman & Finch brings the British movement home to roost. And neh. And moo.
4th & Swift — what an opening for this grand spot in the old Atlanta Dairies Building. Chef Jay Swift seems to have found his place, cooking better than ever from a seasonally inspired menu with a hint of Southern drawl.
Dogwood — look for the review of this new Southern gem in Friday’s Living section and online. Chef-owner Shane Tuohy has brought a fresh, new Southern accent back to downtown.
Cuerno — finally, Riccardo Ullio has brought real-deal Spanish to the city, and what a feast it is, from paella to pata negra this place hits the Spanish spot.
Cakes & Ale — a sweet romance of a restaurant from former Watershed sous chef Billy Allin, who grows most of his own vegetables and makes his own pickles and brawn.
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