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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Restaurant Inspections, Part II

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DUCK’S COSMIC KITCHEN IN DECATUR rated a 99 on a health code inspection report back in 2006…

Photo: Brant Sanderlin/AJC

Since counties (excluding Fulton) now post restaurant inspection reports online, I’ve been getting a lot of emails about restaurants that get a grade of “U” (unsatisfactory — a failing grade).

Some readers have noticed that I not only have reviewed some of these spots, but recommend them. They want to know how I can recommend restaurants that I know are “dirty.”

This is a very good question, and one that isn’t in any of the “dining critic’s code of ethics” guides I’ve seen. First, let me say that in 10 years of reviewing restaurants, I’ve only gotten food poisoning once (it was a verified account, and I have the medical records to prove it).

Second, and this will ruffle feathers: As I see it, it’s not my job to rate a restaurant based on the state’s health code. It’s my job to assess the food (and the service and decor of the restaurant, which would include cleanliness) based on the knowledge I have as a critic. Would I recommend a restaurant that I thought was filthy? Probably not.

Georgia’s newest health code for restaurants, which was enacted earlier this year, is the strictest yet. Interpreting it is a particular problem for ethnic restaurants, where cultural differences can prove difficult. But some chefs I’ve spoken with (including Michael Tuohy, formerly of Woodfire Grill) say that understanding some of the newer restrictions is formidable at best, confusing at worst.

I don’t think a review should be based on a health code score. But I do think posting a link to the website for readers to assess for themselves is a good idea. What do you think?

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