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Southern is Sassy

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JCT KITCHEN’S “CHICKEN & DUMPLINGS”: SOUTHERN GONE SAVVY

PHOTO: Bita Honarvar/AJC

The dining review in today’s Living section takes a new look at an old favorite - Wisteria in Inman Park (you can read the review here.

Jason Hill’s candid take on Southern favorites isn’t without a few twists: his black-eyed pea hummus with sweet potato chips is a clever conception that combines old-fashioned Southern ingredients with a newfangled approach.

Other restaurants around town are good at this, too:

Scott Peacock’s butterbean hummus with house-made pita at Watershed in Decatur is smooth and nutty, and the perfect combination of old style and new tack. Roswell’s Relish makes a mean serving of pimento cheese fritters. JCT Kitchen’s Ford Fry mixes French bistro style with Southern panache and comes up with chicken & dumplings that are the best of both worlds: succulent and crisped chicken leg confit with sheep’s milk ricotta dumplings. And chefs across the city are going crazy with updated versions of deviled eggs (we’ve talked about that subject before).

Do you have a favorite of the above, or an addition to the list? Where do you go to get a modern take on old-fashioned Southern cooking?

And just for laughs, check this out, from the Onion. (Many thanks to my bud Shane Harrison for that!!).

Permalink | Comments (11) | Post your comment | Categories: Dining

Comments

By B. White

July 25, 2008 11:37 AM | Link to this

That food picture looks like something with two eyes, a unibrow, and a lot of teeth.

By Marie

July 25, 2008 12:28 PM | Link to this

Wow. That’s amazing, B. Could it be a toad with unibrows and teeth? I can see it’s frog’s legs. It could also be a frog regurgitating marshmallows. I wouldn’t eat it.

By andthensome

July 25, 2008 1:32 PM | Link to this

How about goat cheese and pepper jack grits with grilled shrimp. Served in martini glasses and topped with fresh basil. Yum!

By Meridith Ford

July 28, 2008 2:37 PM | Link to this

B White and Marie: Don’t knock it til you’ve tried it.

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By Philip Lanier

October 6, 2008 10:58 AM | Link to this

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I guess, when it comes to dishes like JCt Kitchen’s Chicken ‘N’ Dumplings. For me, it’s love at first sight — definitely got “curb appeal”. But it’s that first bite that will tell the tale.

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