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Friday, July 25, 2008
Southern is Sassy
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
JCT KITCHEN’S “CHICKEN & DUMPLINGS”: SOUTHERN GONE SAVVY
PHOTO: Bita Honarvar/AJC
The dining review in today’s Living section takes a new look at an old favorite - Wisteria in Inman Park (you can read the review here.
Jason Hill’s candid take on Southern favorites isn’t without a few twists: his black-eyed pea hummus with sweet potato chips is a clever conception that combines old-fashioned Southern ingredients with a newfangled approach.
Other restaurants around town are good at this, too:
Scott Peacock’s butterbean hummus with house-made pita at Watershed in Decatur is smooth and nutty, and the perfect combination of old style and new tack. Roswell’s Relish makes a mean serving of pimento cheese fritters. JCT Kitchen’s Ford Fry mixes French bistro style with Southern panache and comes up with chicken & dumplings that are the best of both worlds: succulent and crisped chicken leg confit with sheep’s milk ricotta dumplings. And chefs across the city are going crazy with updated versions of deviled eggs (we’ve talked about that subject before).
Do you have a favorite of the above, or an addition to the list? Where do you go to get a modern take on old-fashioned Southern cooking?
And just for laughs, check this out, from the Onion. (Many thanks to my bud Shane Harrison for that!!).
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