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DEL.ICIO.USDitzy Over Dough
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
PUPUSAS ARE SO PLEASING
Photo; Phil Skinner/AJC
I recently took my fiance on a trek up Buford Highway to Chef Liu’s since he had never been, and Chinese food is a favorite of his.
Since the demise of Nam Chun Hong, Chef Liu’s is my favorite dumpling dive — here, the cha chiang mein is cut thick, and the black bean sauce, while a little dry, is rich and deeply flavored, scattered with julienned cukes (sometimes the veggies are served in a separate bowl, but not at Liu’s).
But the best is a plateful of pork fried dumplings (shiu mai), perfectly pinched at the top like a little pouch or beggar’s purse. Dipped into the vinegar-and-soy sauce, they are fluffy bites of doughy perfection.
The last week, still searching for a dough fix, a friend and I ventured into El Rincon on Buford, an El Salvadoran pupusa house recommended to me by Ticha Krinsky, chef owner with husband Dan of Tierra on Piedmont. Ticha is from El Salvador, and makes a mean pupusa, filled with cheese and served with a tart curtido on Tierra’s menu.
El Rincon has expanded since I first moved back to Atlanta, now overtaking the massive space of a former laundry mat next door. There is nothing not to like about this dough dive: The smell of masa mixed into dough on the griddle mingling with a little toasting cheese is a harbinger of all good things to come — pupusas of fat tortillas filled with beans, cheese, ground beef and loroco, an enigmatic herb that tastes a little like asparagus mixed with green beans.
Every culture has its chicken soup? Sure, but we all seem to share a love of dough, too.
Do you have a favorite dough dive?
Permalink | Comments (6) | Post your comment | Categories: Dining
Comments
By Bob
June 17, 2008 8:52 AM | Link to this
Tierra is HORRIBLE. I have never been treated ruder in my entire life. I am no stranger to dining in Atlanta and have eaten most everywhere from Buford Highway to Buckhead to Decatur—Fine Dining to Dives—I go for good food and service.
I had heard about Tierra and while out and about decided to stop in and check on dinner availablility. Never again…The young lady at the host stand was nice enough but the manager/owner (?) was rude and foul. I had on Jeans, as I was running errands, but again ,was just stopping to check availablility for that evening or the next…you would have thought I brought anthrax into her restaurant the way she looked and spoke to me. I will take my business elsewhere. That dump and dive can stew in its own foulness
By Mr. Bigstuff
June 17, 2008 9:21 AM | Link to this
Whenever I need a doughy fix, I make out with my fat girlfriend.
By Melissa
June 17, 2008 10:13 AM | Link to this
Aroma Delight on Old Norcross near the intersection with Sugarloaf Pkwy has the BEST garlic nan I have ever consumed! Aroma Delight is a hidden gem of delicious Indian food!
By Meridith Ford
June 17, 2008 10:21 AM | Link to this
Hey Mr. Big Stuff: As much fun as that sounds, would you mind staying on topic?
By DMan
June 17, 2008 11:46 AM | Link to this
I love Hot Styxx, similar to Chow baby…they have this ROTI Bread…uh yeah…that does it for me. I also love the calamata olive bread at buckhead bread co.
By kar
June 25, 2008 12:07 PM | Link to this
Not a dough per se but I love the dosa’s at the Chat Patti. Especially the plain one filled with onions and potatoes in a light curry. It’s a huge 18-inch crepe that you’d think had potato but is made with lentils.
Always made fresh to order and served with a chilled cucumber raita.