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Friday, June 13, 2008
Is local food safer?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
There’s a lot of finger pointing going on now related to the outbreak of Salmonella Saintpaul that’s been linked to round red tomatoes, Romas and plum tomatoes.
Finding an answer seems further away than it did earlier this week, when federal officials seemed hopeful of tracking back the tainted tomatoes to their source quickly. With more than 60 new cases reported in the last four days, the outbreak appears to be continuing. The last reported onset of illness was June 1, which has food safety investigators concerned that contaminated tomatoes may still be in circulation.
The FDA has cleared Georgia tomatoes, saying they’re OK to buy. Very few Georgia tomatoes were being produced when the outbreak started on April 10; the commercial harvest just started in the last couple of weeks. Publix, Kroger and some restaurants, like Willy’s Mexicana Grill, are restocking with tomatoes from Georgia and cleared regions in North Florida.
Still, state farmers are worried that they’ll lose a tomato crop worth nearly $100 million. They’re concerned consumers will stop eating all tomatoes, instead of merely avoiding ones from areas still under FDA investigation. (You can see the most current list of approved areas on the FDA web site, on the Salmonella Saintpaul investigation page. Also, the CDC is updating the outbreak. On both pages, you can find links to more information on the disease, its symptoms, and properly washing and handling produce.)
Georgia Agriculture Commissioner Tommy Irvin issued a press release this week that wrapped up an endorsement of Georgia tomatoes by telling consumers that buying local ensures safer food.
Many who have joined the local food movement hold similar views. If you know the farmer growing your food, surely he’ll take more care than some faceless farm worker hundreds or thousands of miles away, the belief goes.
But is that true?
Although Georgia tomatoes have been cleared in this outbreak, they have been tied to a previous salmonella outbreak in raw tomatoes, according to the FDA. In the last decade, there have been 13 outbreaks of salmonella related to tomatoes, sickening more than 2,000 people. Most happened in tomatoes grown in Florida — local under most definitions — and eastern Virginia. Other outbreaks were traced back to South Carolina, Ohio and California, according to the FDA.
Doug Powell, head of the International Food Safety Network based at Kansas State University, likes to ask foodies in his area if they’ve talked to their farmer about microbial food safety (a fancy way of saying, are you keeping animal feces that could contain bacteria off of your crops?). Most haven’t, and don’t like being asked. (You can read some of his group’s work on the Barfblog).
They assume, as many of us do, that they’re buying pristine lettuce, tomatoes and spinach. They don’t believe someone they’ve met would take shortcuts that might endanger them. They don’t want to ask their farmer; they think it would insult him. And many people believe that by washing produce they can remove contamination, so they just resolve to wash carefully. But that’s not always the case. Bacteria can enter tomatoes through cracks in the skin or through the stem scar, where it can’t be removed by washing. It’s believed that lettuce can also be contaminated through cuts that allow bacteria to be drawn into internal plant tissues.
If you buy directly from farmers, do you ask them how they protect their crops from contamination? If you’re a farmer, how do you address this issue? And do you have enough confidence in federal food safety officials’ reassurances about tomatoes grown in Georgia and elsewhere to buy and eat them? What about in restaurants?
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Are You Meat-Centric?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
In the mood for salad? TOO BAD. We’re talkin’ meat today, and lots of it.
Photo: Tammy Ljungblad/MCT
Today’s review in the Living Section takes a long, hard look at Holeman & Finch Public House — a megalith of meat mania.
Meat — especially alternative cuts of it — is becoming the next big thing: Anne Quatrano confirmed plans of a meat-centric restaurant she plans to open with chef-husband Clifford Harrison in the White Provision complex being built of the West Side called Abattoir (which means slaughterhouse in French).
Seems we’re returning to a time when total utilization of product was paramount. What do you think? Do you want to eat pig’s feet and tails? What about souse (pig’s head)? Have you been to Holeman & FInch? What did you think?
Since I didn’t get to my FIve Fave on Wednesday, here’s a list of my fave meat dishes, alternative cuts or otherwise:
The “cow and chicken” burger at Beef O’ Brady’s in Grayson — don’t expect this combo of boneless wings, hamburger and American cheese at all the BOB locations — just this one. What a wackdoodle thing to eat. It’s all good. 2715 Loganville Highway, 770-682-5224.
Shaun’s Heritage pork schnitzel with Vidalia onions, peanuts and parsley. OMG good — like Germany ran into Southeast Asia and had a fried pork cutlet baby. The peanuts make the dish, especially with a little twist of feshly squeezed lemon. 1029 Edgewood Avenue NE, 404.577.4358, www.shaunsrestaurant.com
The crispy veal sweetbreads at FAB, a perfect mix of tender, sweet, crunchy and savory. New executive chef Stephen Sharp makes them every bit as good as they ever were. 30 Ivan Allen Jr., Blvd., 404-266-1440, www.fabatlanta.com.
Pork belly, tender and juicy with a crispy edge, over creamy grits with charred onions and house-made bread-and-butter pickles at Holeman & Finch. OMG good. 2277 Peachtree Road, Suite B, 404-948-1175, www.holeman-finch.com.
And finally, the greatest piece of meat this side of the Mississippi: The bone-in ribeye at Bone’s. Hello gorgeous. If Cary Grant had been a steak, this would be the one. And Bone’s cooks to perfection. 3130 Piedmont Rd. NE, 404-237-2663, www.bonesrestaurant.com.
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