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Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Devilish Eggs

eggs.jpg

The towering deviled eggs (con bacon) at Bricktop’s in Buckhead.

Photo: Becky Stein/Special to the AJC

“Who can help loving the land (France) that has taught us 655 ways to dress an egg?”

Thomas Moore apparently agrees with me: There are few things on the planet as good as a deviled egg. Who knew taking the yolk from boiled egg and mixing it with relish and mayo ( the “devil” comes from the use of Tabasco or paprika) would be so darned much fun and taste so danged good? I know people who will fight over them.

And everyone makes them just a little differently. Some use mustard with their mayo. Others only dill pickles. Some whip the yolk mixture until it’s almost souffle like. But until now, they were hardly something to find on a menu at an upscale restaurant.

But chefs love huevos these days. Some add groovy ingredients like black truffles or truffle oil, as they are served at Maxim Prime downtown. Some take the whipped mixture and pipe towering swirls into the half-white, as is done at Bricktop’s in Buckhead. At Cakes & Ale in Decatur, chef Billy Allin makes them straightforward, Southern style, with a side of house-made pickles. Oh yum.

What restaurant makes the best deviled eggs in the area?

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