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Thursday, February 28, 2008
A gathering to inspire eaters and farmers
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Farmers who are familiar faces at Atlanta’s farmers’ markets are gathering through Saturday in Dalton to network, check out other farms and pick up tips on everything from greenhouse management to building their own Web sites.
The Georgia Organics conference is sold out, with more than 600 people signed up for three days of farm tours and workshops. They’re not all farmers, but many of those I spoke with today are dreaming of growing organically, whether starting a dairy, as one couple hopes to launch in Taylor County later this year, or simply to improve a home garden while avoiding pesticides and petroleum-based fertilizers. With so much momentum, who wouldn’t be inspired?
We started the day Thursday at Sequatchie Cove Farm, about a half-hour west of Chattanooga. It’s an idyllic setting, ringed with mountains and cut by a clear spring. Bill and Miriam Keener, with the help of Miriam’s dad Jim Wright, an engineer; her mom, Emily; and the Keener’s children, Ann and Kelsey, have built the family’s homes on the land, and a large studio where we gathered to hear more about the sustainable farm that they’re developing. They grow the foods they love to eat, like shiitake mushrooms and strawberries, and over the past decade of farming have built up an operation that produces pasture-raised pigs, chicken and cattle along with enough produce to supply a 90-member community supported agriculture program.
Their next step: Producing raw-milk cheeses in the French style, but with the terroir of their Tennessee cove. The Keeners raise rare livestock breeds like Ossabaw pigs and their cows are no exception: Small but sturdy Milking Devons, dark cows that produce a rich milk and well-marbled meat.
Nathan Arnold is handling the cheese program, and spent a few weeks in France last summer studying cheese-making. If everything goes as planned, Sequatchie Cove cheeses could be in stores by this time next year. And unlike most of the farm’s production, which is available only in the Chattanooga area, the cheeses are aimed at a wider audience. Even among experienced farmers, dreams keep growing.
Check back Saturday morning for another update. I’m visiting two farms in Bartow County on Friday, and going to a four-hour workshop on square-foot gardening that I’ll write about for the AJC closer to summer vegetable planting season.
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Your Thoughts On the New Floataway Cafe
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
AT RIGHT: Cutie pie Drew Belline is Floataway’s talented chef de cuisine
Photo: Renee’ Hannans Henry/AJC Staff
Today’s review of the newly renovated Floataway Cafe prompted interesting response from readers (you can read the full review at ajc:
From Mike Glennon (who’s wife, Amy, works for the AJC): “Very nice review today of Floataway. It has long been one of my favorite restaurants in the city. I think the makeover was long overdue and has noticeably improved the restaurant. Two things I thought you missed on the review, however (I apologize for criticizing in my first email to you, I’ve read all your reviews since you came to the ajc): the wine list has deteriorated noticeably in the makeover and the soft-serve ice cream dessert didn’t get a mention either.
The wine list used to be a wonderful collection of old and new world wines. Always something interesting and very reasonable. Now, it is almost exclusively american, not nearly as interesting, yet still reasonable. Of all the changes, that was the one that sounded the wrong note. When I mentioned it to our server last time we were there, she said not only that she felt the same way, but that many of her customers had similar comments as well.
The soft-serve ice cream is my favorite dessert in Atl. The olive oil with sea salt on vanilla ice cream is just inspired and certainly unique, which is why I thought it might get a mention in your review. The caramel with sea salt rocks as well.
Just some random thoughts from a reader. Keep up the good work.”
Mike makes some very valid points, especially about the soft serve ice cream, which I tried on one visit, but just couldn’t fit into the review. It comes with three soft servings of vanilla — chocolate sauce, caramel and olive oil — all three crowned with a tiny dash of fleur de sel, which provides a really cool contrast to all that sweetness.
On the flip side, this from a reader who wishes to remain anonymous:
“I am very sad to say I’ve eaten at Floataway 3 times in the past two months and have found the service and the staff to be one of the worst in the city … While it pains me to say this, that was and will be the last time I eat at Floataway. I will miss the food and I doubt they will miss my business but I can’t help but wonder, why has service become so far down on the list?
I get that you are a foodie, I’m so not a foodie, atmosphere and service are as if not more important to me, but it doesn’t seem to ever be the priority anymore.”
I had one incident of bad service at Floataway, over the course of three visits, so I felt the hand was tipped in the direction of giving them the benefit of the doubt.
Who’s been since the renovation? Do you agree or disagree that the new space is much warmer, with lots more ambience?
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Chima Churrascaria
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
AT RIGHT: Atlanta loves its meat.
Photo: Jean Shifrin/AJC staff
Another churrascaria has opened in Atlanta, this one an extension of the family-owned Chima Churrascaria located in Uberlandia, Brazil. The Atlanta location (the flagship is located in Ft. Lauderdale, and there is another location just outside of Washington, D.C, with Philly and Charlotte, N.C. to come) will be a 350-seat eatery offering 16 kinds of meat, ranging from filet mignon, pork loin, lamb chops, chicken and salmon. And of course all will be served by marauding (well, maybe not marauding) gauchos.
The whole cutting-meat-from-a-spit-thing is authentically referred to as rodizio, which includes all the meats and salad bar, or diners can choose the salad bar option only.
All this makes Chima (say Shee- Ma) different from every other churrascaria in Atlanta in …. absolutely no way at all. These steakhouses seem to pop up here as easily as Waffle Houses. Look closely at the leases in the next strip mall you pass — you’re likely to find one.
Atlanta loves meat. What’s your favorite churrascaria? Have you been to some of the smaller, less ostentatious Brazilian steakhouses like Red & Green on Buford Highway? What do you think?
“Americans have gotten themselves a reputation as a carnivorous people.”
— Wolfgang Puck
Chima is located at 3215 Peachtree Road NE, (404) 424-8281, www.chimasteakhouse.com.
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