Home > Table Talk > Archives > 2008 > February > 26 > Entry

Is There Creole in the ATL?

lenny.jpg

AT RIGHT: Chef Lenny Robinson plates a salad at his downtown restaurant, now called Fleurs de Lis Creole Eatery

Photo: JESSICA MCGOWAN/SPECIAL to the AJC

“I don’t work out. If God wanted us to bend over he’d put diamonds on the floor.”

— Joan Rivers

Downtown friends and colleagues were petrified a few weeks ago when the windows of one of our favorite eateries, Fleurs de Lis, closed its door and shuttered its windows, then hung them with butcher paper.

The butcher paper is a good sign of a renovation, I told them. Wait and see. The restaurant is owned and operated by chef Lenny Robinson who up until recently offered some of the finest French fare around. The problem was that Robinson, who one colleague aptly dubbed “grumpy-olicious,” was doing all the cooking and his wait staff was, well, a little out to lunch in a non-literal way.

Since the butcher paper came down a couple of weeks ago, the lines have been out the door during peak lunch times. Robinson streamlined the fussiness of his French offerings into standard Creole dishes like seafood gumbo and shrimp etouffee. Go early. He runs out of stuff quickly, and the gumbo is as good as gumbo gets — a clear, spicy broth made with brown roux and lots of seafood and rice (watch for crab and shrimp shells). Everything is now under $10, and it’s handed to you in a brown paper bag. You can sit at one of the cozy tables, or take your gigantic roast beef po’boy with gravy to go. Outrageous. 57 Forsyth St., Suite R-8. 404-230-9151, fleurs de lis

Where do you go in Atlanta for great Creole?

Permalink | Comments (37) | Post your comment | Categories: Dining

Comments

By Rodney

February 26, 2008 2:54 PM | Link to this

I gotta say, I don’t get many hankerings for creole.

Once a year I make a trip to New Orleans and, on the advice of a foodie bud of mine from a N.O. local rag, find an out of the way fantastic creole joint.

But I’ve never really looked too hard in the ATL for creole - aside from a friend who used to throw one heck of a crawfish boil each year.

So I’m interested in hearing what other people say - and maybe trying out some of the suggestions!

(Love the Joan Rivers quote!)

By Ziza

February 28, 2008 10:21 AM | Link to this

on Boulevard just north of I20 there is a Nawlins spot - can’t remember the name but the po boys are pretty decent.

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