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Monday, February 4, 2008
Stinky Cheese
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A cheese shop in Lucca, Italy
Photo: Catherine Fox/AJC staff
Quote of the Day: “How can you be expected to govern a country that has 246 kinds of cheese?” — Charles de Gaulle
When my boyfriend and I schlepped to Athens to review the National, one of the things we enjoyed most about this homespun spot was the honest approach chef Peter Dale has with cheese and meats.
We really enjoyed, for instance, the chorizo with caramelized apples and the restaurant’s small but sufficient selection of fine cheeses. Many, like Manchego, were mild and easily enjoyed with a glass of bold tempranillo. But when my boyfriend tasted a small, oozing sliver of morbier, he grimaced, puckered, then remarked, ‘It tastes like I just ate a piece of Morticia Adams’ dress.” Morbier is definitely a stinky cheese.
Cheese plates are becoming part of dining room necessity, and I can think of no other in the area with a better selection than Bacchanalia and Quinones at Bacchanalia, since the selections are grabbed from Star Provisions. Nobody has a better selection than this, from ripe morbier to more tame comte, to bold Stilton and bell-shaped clochette. Restaurant Eugene runs a close second.
What’s your stinky cheese story? And where’s your favorite stinky cheese selection in the city?
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