Home > Table Talk > Archives > 2008 > February > 01
Friday, February 1, 2008
Life Gave Us Lemons and We Made…
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Photo: Wally Skalij/Los Angeles Times
An evening at Woodfire Grill always brings pleasant surprises, and a recent dinner there brought a real treat: warm lemon pudding with lemon curd and sweet biscuits.
Lemons, along with other citrus, are at their peak in mid-winter, so now’s the time to utilize them in cooking and cocktails.
Chef Ford Fry tells me that he’s just added Meyer lemon doughnuts to his dessert menu at JCT Kitchen. I’ll need to get by to try them ASAP. Has anyone tried them yet? Where is your favorite lemon-inspired dessert?
Though it’s hard to get Sorrento lemons from the Amalfi Coast to make limoncello, now’s a good time to try to make your own version of this Italian liqueur (why should Danny DeVito and George Clooney have all the fun?), using domestic lemons. Here’s a recipe, reprinted from my cocktail column in the AJC’s food section:
Limoncello
This liqueur, made from alcohol, lemons, lemon zest and sugar, is a traditional after-dinner digestif that hails from Italy’s Amalfi coast, where Sorrento lemons are used to give it a puckering, but smooth, punch. Using pure alcohol is best (because it absorbs the oils from the zest and gives a smoother flavor), but vodka —- especially a high-proof one —- will do the trick nicely. Take advantage of citrus season —- try it with limes or oranges, too. This recipe, adapted from www.whatscookingamerica.net, is a good starter recipe that yields about two quarts.
15 lemons
2 (750 ml) bottles 100-proof vodka, divided
4 cups granulated sugar
5 cups water
Wash the lemons, then carefully zest so there is no white pith on the peel. (The pith is bitter and will spoil the limoncello.) In a large glass jar, add 1 bottle vodka; add the lemon zest. Cover the jar and let it sit at room temperature for at least 10 days (or up to 40) in a cool, dark place. Don’t stir. In a large saucepan, combine the sugar and water; cook until thickened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Let the syrup cool before adding it to the limoncello mixture, then add the additional bottle of vodka. Allow to rest for another 10 to 40 days. After the rest period, strain and bottle, discarding the lemon zest. Serve very cold.
Permalink | Comments (1) | Post your comment | Categories: Dining
Mexican Mania
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Chile Relleno at Mi Barrio
photo: Jenni Girtman/AJC staff
Quote of the Day: “You’re either a guitarist. Or you can dance. Or you’re Prince.” M. Goldman, aka “Bud Man”
The heat goes on: I’m still getting tons of email regarding my review of Nuevo Laredo Cantina, which when I had the chance to read over again last week, just wasn’t that scathing. It was actually pretty positive in spots. If you missed it, read it now.
But the influx of emails has sent me looking for Mexican in places other than my favorite haunts, among them the food court at Plaza Fiesta on Buford Highway, El Cabrito and my pick for the absolute best, La Oaxaquena Taqueria in Jonesboro (which is actually better than many of the meals I’ve eaten in Mexico).
Mi Barrio, on Memorial Drive on the outskirts of Grant Park, is an intown find. Family run, the place is relaxed and carefree, with decor ranging from a widescreen TV the size of a small house and bright Mexicana bric-a-brac from hanging sombreros to ceramic jugs.
The food is a mix of Guadalajaran goodies, from ceviche to birria (birrieria — traditionally made with goat but here made with beef because, according to one of the waitresses, no one would order it with goat.) It is an incredibly savory stew with shredded chunks of beef served with corn tortillas, refried beans and rice. The tamales are dry, but tacos adobada (pork stew) and gorditas brimming with chicken, beans, shredded lettuce and sliced tomato with avocado are pure joy. The staff treats everyone like regulars, and there’s an array of Mexican beers to partake of, though I didn’t bother with a margarita. On the weekends, the kitchen offers posole. It truly feels like mi barrio (or tu barrio, depending on your perspective). Mi Barrio, 571 Memorial Drive, Atlanta, 404-223-9279
Have you tried Mi Barrio? What did you think?
Permalink | Comments (0) | Post your comment | Categories: Dining
Costco gets into the beer business
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A couple of years ago, Sam’s Club and Costco commissioned private label wines. I’ve tried a few of the Kirkland Signature wines from Costco, and before Christmas, picked up a bottle of the warehouse club’s French Champagne. (Good Champagne, but there’s something about the words “warehouse club Champagne” that doesn’t jell.)
Now Costco’s striking a deal for private label craft beers — you can read about it on BrewBlog, from the Miller Brewing Co.. They’re looking at a hefeweizen, a pale ale and an amber ale. According to the blog, the company is also looking at a private label single-malt Scotch. Trader Joe’s is another retailer that’s moved heavily into private label wines and beers.
What do you think of store-brand wines and beers? Got a favorite? How does it compare to the big guys on price and taste?
Permalink | Comments (8) | Post your comment | Categories: Food
