Home > Table Talk > Archives > 2007 > November
November 2007
GIngerbread Dreams
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
It’s officially the holiday season, and restaurants all over town are offering special events to celebrate the season.
Roy’s Buckhead is hosting a Hawaiian gingerbread party for kids on Saturday, December 15 at 10:30 a.m. and it includes lunch. To make a reservation and for more information, call Joshua Fan at 404-231-3232 by December 5. Roy’s is located at 3475 Piedmont Road NE, inside the Buckhead Prominence Building.
Where do you go for holiday baking and fun?
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Soup IS Good Food
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A friend came down with his version of the season’s first cold last week, so I made a big pot of chicken soup (with turkey stock) and rushed it over to his house as a remedy.
Now, of course, I’m coming down with the same symptoms. I can make a pot of soup for myself, but what if — like my friend — you just don’t cook? Where do you go for a great bowl of heart-warming, soul-replenishing soup? Souper Jenny? Loaf n Kettle? Korean tofu soup? Where do you head to get rid of your head cold?
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Bam! Food Network cancels “Emeril Live”
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
When the Food Network moved “Emeril Live” from 8 p.m. to 7 p.m. earlier this year, that was a tipoff that the Louisiana chef was being kicked down a notch.
Now it’s official. The network has canceled “Emeril Live,” and production stops on Dec. 11. (New episodes will air in 2008 and you’ll still be able to catch reruns.) Emeril Lagasse will continue producing “Essence of Emeril” for the Food Network. (Read Emeril’s message to fans here.)
The change seems like a good time to talk about what it means to be a Food Network star. Emeril was its first, complete with a string of cookbooks, licensing deals and single-name status. Now there are many others: Rachel Ray, Paula Deen, Giada De Laurentiis, Alton Brown.
Do you watch Food Network to be entertained, or to learn more about cooking? Who’s overexposed? Who teaches you the most?
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Do you like to warm up with a nice seasonal drink?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
This week, we feature stories on drinking custard (sort of a lighter version of eggnog) and hot holiday drinks. Do you have a favorite homemade seasonal drink, or do you just grab a carton of something from the grocery store and add your own “improvements”? We’d like to know.
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Not So Crazy for Korean
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
As a foodie, and certainly as a dining critic, I get the impression from the gasps of horror I’ve gotten whenever the subject comes up that I’m not supposed to disdain any type of cuisine. I’m supposed to like everything, from chicken livers to chole.
Uh oh. Guess it’s time for true confessions: I’m not fond of chicken livers and if I never eat uni again I don’t think I’d suffer for it. Beyond bibimbap and tofu soup (and an occasional serving of galbi), I’m not too hip on Korean dishes — there is something at once intrinsically sweet and sour about many Korean dishes, and it rubs against my taste buds the wrong way. Still, I must eat Korean food without this judgment and seek it out wherever it may be.
Atlanta has a plethora of great Korean restaurants. My favorite is So Kong Dong on Buford Highway. Where do you go when you’re looking for a fix of sundubu?
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How do you pick a mail-order food gift?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Mail-order food companies have been sending packages to the newspaper for weeks now, with samples of their holiday goodies. It’s big business for them. Consumers increased the number of food gifts they bought by almost 50 percent between 2004 and 2006 according to one marketing research firm, with annual sales near $16 billion.
Getting a positive review in the many newspapers, magazines and web sites that offer holiday food guides can boost sales. So we’ve been opening boxes filled with truffles and candied nuts, organic pears and flavored popcorn, and peppermint in many forms, from bonbons to bark. And endless boxes and bars of chocolate.
After a while, many of them start to blur. A lot of them just aren’t worth the calories; they’re made with mediocre ingredients that can’t be disguised even with the most festive holiday wrapping. So it was a refreshing change to try Enstrom Candies’ Peppermint Cookie Bark. (And really, peppermint bark — not something I usually think of as worth indulging in, not like, say, the Michael Recchiuti fleur de sel caramels that colleague John Kessler writes about in his roundup of high-end mail order goodies.)
The Enstrom’s bark was sweet with a hint of salt, made with a combination of dark and white chocolate and chocolate cookie pieces. It’s fabulous candy, pretty to look at with its layers of chocolate and peppermint, and prettily packaged. If you order before Dec. 1, you get free shipping if you enter PRFS as the source/discount code when ordering. At $18.95 for one pound, it’s not the cheapest peppermint bark out there, but it’s the best we’ve tried this year.
Do you send food gifts? What’s your favorite? How do you decide what to send — is it based on what you like to eat?
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Are We Headed to Healthy?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
There are signs on the restaurant horizon that we might actually be headed to healthier options when it comes to dining out. No, I’m not talking about gimmicky spots like Seasons 52, where the anemic take on cooking and ingredients could take the fun out of a dose of laughing gas.
No, I’m actually talking about local ingredients and the use of macrobiotics — a concept developed in ancient Greece and brought to modern terms in 1950s Japan — where grains are the center of the meal, and fresh, seasonal vegetables round things out.
Places such as Beleza (see my review of Beleza this Friday, Nov. 30, in Living) are sneaking concepts like slow food and macrobiotics onto their menus. Repast has a macrobiotic plate instead of the standard veggie offerings. Even cocktails are going fresh-faced with lots of juices and funky, antioxidant ingredients.
Right when we thought Atlanta couldn’t get enough steak and potatoes. Is this a fad? Or will these concepts seep into the main stream for the better? Where else besides Beleza and Repast are you seeing macrobiotics on menus?
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Where’s the Best Cornbread?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I’m mighty partial to the spoonbread-style cornbread (made from white cornmeal) at Watershed: Part cream, part corn, it almost — hence the name — needs a spoon for eating.
A new cookbook, “The Cornbread Gospels” by Crescent Dragonwagon (Workman Publishing, $14.95) has me waxing on about my favorite spots (other than home) for the bread southerners claim as religion. In truth, cornbread exists in all regions of the United States and is perhaps more American than that proverbial apple pie. (I guess “as American as cornbread” didn’t possess such an alliterate ring.)
Muffins and jonnycakes in the North; tortillas and flatbreads in the Southwest; hoe cakes and hushpuppies in the Midwest; griddle cakes in the West — corn of all sorts has been sustenance to Americans since Squanto taught the pilgrims how to plant it in 1620.
But Southerners have a special strain of the stuff, and making it, eating it and talking about it provides us a great sense of pride. Dragonwagon’s book includes over 200 recipes and covers all the regions of the USA, but even she says “with certainty” that “no part of America cares more about cornbread than the South.”
There are lots of spots — from meat-n-threes to Watershed, who serve great cornbread. Who’s the best?
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Turkey lurks. Should you eat it?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
As I was driving to work this morning, one of the radio chatters rambled on about the holiday shopping season being in full gear, now that the Thanksgiving leftovers were all eaten.
There’s a container of turkey noodle soup waiting for my lunch today and tomorrow. After days of turkey sandwiches and Thanksgiving rehashes, we finally finished the last of the sliced turkey on Sunday. My sister’s still toting enough poundcake to last another week. Maybe we should have eaten more. But it raises the question of when you do need to throw food out. Is it a needless waste to pitch any leftover turkey today? Or the prudent thing to do?
Federal food safety advice says to toss poultry leftovers after three to four days. If the turkey sat out for more than two hours at room temperature, you’re supposed to not even bother with keeping it for leftovers.
So — that makes today the last safe day to eat turkey that was properly handled, according to U.S. Department of Agriculture guidelines. Same for the gravy. Bacon, on the other hand, can keep for a week after cooking in the refrigerator, which should make a lot of side dishes OK.
Do you still have Thanksgiving leftovers around the house? What’s your favorite way to get rid of them? I tried a turkey hash from Jean Anderson’s new cookbook, “A Love Affair With Southern Cooking,” that was delicious. Simple, but satisfying, and good enough to have the kids asking for seconds.
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Sharing the Chef’s Toque
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I’ve made it no secret that I worked as a professional chef and culinary instructor for nearly 15 years before I started writing full time.
But when it comes to cooking in my family, my 81-year-old mom is still the boss. She has, on occasion, literally shooed me from her kitchen. I’ve noticed in the past ten years or so she actually asks my advice from time to time, but I can tell her effort is merely a perfunctory way of placating my ego. People from all over the country write me to ask my cooking advice, but when it comes to cooking Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners, my mom’s cooking is still what everyone in my family really wants.
So let’s hear it Atlanta chefs: Any of you in the same predicament with one or both of your ‘rents? Can you braise and bake better than beautiful, but when it comes to mom’s cooking, you just don’t measure up?
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Where are the Best Holiday Cookies?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Dainty. Pretty. Sweet. I’m not talking about the members of the DAR.
I’m talking cookies — beautiful, delicate cookies decorated better than a Christmas tree or menorah to light the season. Cookbooks — my lastest fave is “Cookie Craft” by Valerie Peterson and Janice Fryer — are abundant about them. School carnivals can’t get enough of them. And kids (from one to 92) love them.
Where are the best decorated and decked-for-the-halls cookies in Atlanta?
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Why do you need white bread in corn bread dressing?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
No, this isn’t a trick question. I really don’t know.
Some corn bread dressing recipes call just for crumbled dry corn bread, which you moisten with stock, butter and eggs (which raises the question, why are you drying it out — just to add fat to it?) before baking. But I digress.
Other recipes call for anywhere from one to six slices of stale white sandwich bread or six biscuits. Do you use white bread or biscuits in your corn bread dressing? What difference does it make in the texture?
Pecans: Buy a bag or shell them yourself?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
In this week’s main article on pecan pie, writer Virginia Willis reminisces about gathering pecans in her grandparents’ yard. She stresses that one of the secrets to a great pecan pie is the freshness of the key ingredient. Using preshelled pecans is obviously a big time-saver, but have you ever made the extra effort to cook with freshly shelled pecans? Could you tell a distinct taste difference? What did you make? And, finally, do you pronounce it “PEE-can,” “PEE-kahn” or “pee-KAHN”? We’d like to know.
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Leaving the Leftovers Behind
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Sure, everyone wants that day-after turkey sandwich piled high with cranberry sauce, lettuce and mayo. But after day two of granny’s Jello salad, we’re all ready for a change.
To stop talking turkey I like to hit the food court at Plaza Fiesta and feast on a $2 taco de carne asada and finish things off with a caramel churro or head for L’Thai on Lawrenceville Highway for some larb.
Where do you head to leave your leftovers behind?
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Slow Food is Slow Moving
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I had the pleasure of speaking briefly to a Rotary Club group today and was asked to pick my own topic. When I asked the members to let me know by a show of hands if they knew what the Slow Food movement was — only one person raised a hand.
For us to think for a moment about where our food comes from has become totally foreign to us. How can that be? How can school children in Rhode Island think that corn comes from a can? How can a housewife in Dunwoody not understand the difference between a hot house tomato and one that was grown locally? Why is a strawberry shipped from California weeks prior cheaper than one grown upstate?
This Thanksgiving let’s give thanks — and a shout out — to the chefs and restaurateurs who are bucking the distribution system and bringing to Atlanta’s table fresh and local — as often as they can. My favorites? Anne Quatrano, Michael Tuohy and the guys at Five Seasons Brewery.
Who are your favorite slow-food chefs?
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What’s your favorite Thanksgiving recipe?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
It’s not Thanksgiving without pound cake for my family. We take turns baking a recipe that my father brought home when I was a child. It’s one of the first recipes I prepared, and ones my sisters have taken up, too, because it’s so good.
There’s just one problem. Many years ago, we lost the original recipe. I jotted down the ingredients from memory, but couldn’t recall the mixing instructions, which were incredibly detailed. We still make the pound cake, but we’ve never been able to get the crust to that yummy, slightly chewy texture that it used to have.
Still, it wouldn’t be Thanksgiving without the pound cake. Is there a must-have dish at your celebration? Share the recipe!
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Where’s Your Favorite Diner?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Diners have never really taken the same form south of the Mason/Dixon Line as they have in the north. Atlanta has very few real “diners.”
One of the real ones — Silver Grill on Monroe in Midtown — closed last December after 58 years in business. It reopened Tuesday with new owners and a new name: Silver Midtown Grill (for more details check out my column, Dishing, in next week’s accessAtlanta).
I’m anxious to check it out. With so few to chose from, where are the best diners in the Atlanta area?
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Is the local food movement elitist?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Small, local and organic met big government Wednesday at the CDC, as chef Alice Waters spoke eloquently about what good food really means to an audience of Atlanta chefs, farmers, Georgia Organics members, Emory students and CDC doctors and scientists.
And for the most part, she was speaking with an audience totally in sync as she advocated abandoning the values of a fast food nation — cheap and easy and endlessly replaceable — with carefully chosen food lovingly shared with family and friends.
But she raised an issue I’ve been thinking about for a while, as I cover the local food movement. And I’m not sure she got total buy-in from the crowd on this one. She talked about the elitism that eating locally often implies, that good food may be seen as reserved for people who can afford to pay the premium prices it usually commands, especially in urban areas like Atlanta. She wants to make sure everybody has access to it, especially children in public schools.
She said, “Good food belongs not just in fancy restaurants. It belongs on everybody’s table.”
In theory, everybody agrees with it. But how do you put that into practice? Pay less to farmers?
One of her solutions was for consumers to be willing to devote more of their income to food, such as giving up cell phones or expensive sneakers to invest in the environment and your community. She also called for the government to pay for it.
Do you think the local food movement is elitist? Is price a factor in what you choose, or how much you buy? What can be done to make this food more available and affordable? Are government subsidies the answer?
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Chefs Supreme
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
With Alice Waters in town today to speak at the CDC, it dawns on me that she is without a doubt the most influential chef of her time. Julia Child came first, but then there was Alice.
From her restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Cal., she has inspired an entire generation of chefs to think and eat locally, making la cuisine du marche (market cuisine) a benchmark for American restaurants and spearheading the slow food movement in the United States. Waters inspired millions to think about what they were eating as much as how it was prepared.
What chefs in Atlanta do you feel best embody Waters’ iconic image? Who are our most influential chefs? Why?
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Making a pitch for Georgia grown
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
The state Department of Agriculture threw a get-together earlier this week to introduce farmers and specialty food producers to potential customers. Despite the dreary setting — a concrete building tucked away at the back of the Atlanta State Farmers Market in Forest Park — the event drew a nice mix of producers.
I spotted Linton Hopkins, chef/owner of Restaurant Eugene, trying some Springer Mountain chicken and talking about using it at Holman & Finch Public House, his casual watering hole that’s now scheduled to open in January, once grease trap permit issues are resolved. Hopkins also checked out the rich, Jersey milk and cream from Sparkman’s Cream Valley, a Moultrie dairy that raises its cows without artificial growth hormones. (You can find their milk locally in Harry’s Farmers Markets and Whole Foods Markets, along with 1/2-pound blocks of butter).
Janice Walters-Taylor of Appalachian Kitchens & Winery showed her jellies, most of them made with wines from Chateau Elan. The Blackberries & Pinot Noir Wine Jam was delicious, and so was the Blueberries & Merlot Wine Jam. She doesn’t sell yet at any gift stores in metro Atlanta, but is working on lining those up. For now, you can find her products on her web site or in some gift shops in the mountains, like Corks & Crumbs in Ellijay, Mercier Orchards in Blue Ridge and the Heavenly Bake Shop in Hiawassee. The Chateau Elan gift shop also carries the jams, and she’ll be producing their private label jams soon.
Wild Georgia Shrimp, which promotes shrimp caught off the coast, was looking for a distributor who could get more of this sweet, sought-after shellfish into supermarkets. They’ve hooked up with Sysco in Jacksonville to make sure restaurants from Savannah south down the coast are selling local shrimp — it is the coast, after all, and shouldn’t they serve shrimp caught just a few miles away instead of ones raised in ponds in Southeast Asia? But they haven’t had as much luck cracking the Atlanta market.
Rancher Will Harris, who raises grass-fed beef at White Oak Pastures in Early County, was offering samples. Linton Hopkins wants to buy some and dry-age it for his restaurants. He’s also considering it for a showcase burger for Holman & Finch. Most of the state wineries had booths and offered pours, from Tiger Mountain Vineyards — you can taste their Petit Manseng at the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead and at Woodfire Grill — to Meinhardt Vineyards in Statesboro.
Patrick Gebrayel, executive chef at Dunwoody Country Club and a guy who’s worked hard behind the scenes to connect restaurateurs with local producers, was on hand. So was Terry Coleman, who’s deputy commissioner of agriculture. The department sponsored the event to encourage food buyers to seek out products grown within the state, to give a boost to farmers and showcase the quality of Georgia grown. Exhibitors said they’d had a fair number of lookers, but not overwhelming crowds. Still, in a few weeks, maybe you’ll see more of these products turning up in restaurants.
When you eat out, do you look for local products? Does that influence where or what you choose to eat?
Where is the best restaurant for Thanksgiving dinner?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW: Do you eat Thanksgiving dinner at a restaurant? Where do you go?
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Culinary Cocktails Anyone?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
The latest trend in dining happens behind the bar, not in the kitchen. “Culinary cocktails” (who thought of that name? the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles?) have taken hold of the dining scene in Atlanta. The idea of applying fresh ingredients with the same cooking principles and techniques behind the bar as one would find in the kitchen sounds like a no-brainer, but few bars actually do it.
Blazing the trail are restaurants such as Beleza, where fresh, full-on flavor libations like the pomegranate spritzer — gin, pom syrup, prosecco and pom seeds — turn the French 75 on its anti-antioxidant ear.
Other restaurants where you can coif this type of culinary-inspired cocktail: Restaurant Eugene, Shaun’s, Repast, the Globe, Floataway Cafe. Are culinary cocktails THE biggest new trend in dining out? I think so. What do you think? And where do you go to enjoy one of these spirited libations?
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Do You Dine LIte?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
The immense popularity of restaurants like Seasons 52 are proving at least one thing about trends in dining: We at least want to SEEM like we’re watching the fat and calories.
Seasons 52’s entire menu is devoted to cutting back, and I’ve just finished a review of Here to Serve Restaurants’ new showy spot, Lola Bellini Bar & Restaurant, which sports a “Lolita” section of the menu that touts entrees for a mere 600 calories.
Personally, I HATE the idea of this kind of watered down approach to dining out; I tend to enjoy a variety of dishes from a menu, but never eat more than a few tastes. In other words, moderation.
But others really like the option. And since Americans are teetering on being the fattest nation on the planet, it’s hard to argue with this kind of calorie calculating.
What side of the fence are you on? Do you like the idea of “light” menus, or do they seem like a waste of time for a dinner out?
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It’s time to talk turkey
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
For Thanksgiving this year, I’m buying a turkey from a local farm, one that’s raised on pasture. I ordered the turkey last summer, before the farmer got his poults in. I’m looking forward to preparing it, and learning more about the difference in how a turkey that walks around on grass all days tastes, compared to one raised in confined quarters and given feed, as the traditional Thanksgiving centerpiece is.
Usually I make a last-minute run to the store, hoping to find a fresh bird that’s about the right size. (And they never are. They’re always 20 pounds or larger, if you wait until the day before Thanksgiving. And everything else is frozen.)
Grocery stores, of course, want us to start thinking about booking a turkey earlier. Whole Foods Market had a media tasting of its takeout menu on Nov. 8, complete with wine pairings. (Since I’d just faux-fried a turkey in a new infrared cooker from Char-Broil two days earlier, I passed up the chance for yet more turkey and missed the early feast.) Restaurants have been sending menus for a few weeks.
We’re still sorting through Halloween candy at my house, and except for ordering the turkey, haven’t thought about anything else related to Thanksgiving. What about you? When do you start putting together the holiday meal? Have you ever bought a special turkey, like a heritage breed? If so, was it worth the extra money?
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So just what is Jell-O salad: dessert or side dish?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
In this week’s Saving Southern Food recipe, we find ourselves faced with what some people call one of the Great Mysteries of Southern cooking: the Jell-O salad. Snickered at by some gourmet cooks for the less-than-sophisticated nature of its namesake ingredient and beloved by others, Jell-O salad remains a popular holiday item on many Southern tables. Some versions are sweet, like a dessert. Others involve lettuce and even (gasp!) vegetables. So what is it? Dessert or side dish? Do you dread the unveiling of this year’s crop of Jell-O salad or will you dive in spoon-first?
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Made any great meals with Trader Joe’s products?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A year or so has passed since Trader Joe’s descended upon metro Atlanta, and the resulting euphoria has cooled (somewhat). But in that time, the store’s army of followers has put on its collective thinking cap and begun experimenting with the various sauces and other products on offer. Have you made any noteworthy dishes using Trader Joe’s ingredients? Found any hidden gems that add personality to an otherwise average meal? Let us know.
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Best of the Newbies
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Atlanta has been bustling with the opening of not just a few, but MANY new restaurants in the last two years.
A few, like Shaun’s and Trois, have been rewarded for their efforts with national recognition. But there’s also JCT Kitchen, the National in Athens, FAB, Room (and Stats, soon to come), Steel, Relish and Bistro VG in Roswell, Lola, Rathbun’s Steak.
Have you been to any of these restaurants? What’s your favorite? Why? Why not?
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Where is the best soup?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW: Where do you go for the best soups in town?
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Midtown Shop & Dine Week
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Restaurants, stores, hotels, cultural attractions and nightclubs are all offering special promotions to encourage you to taste all Midtown has to offer during the 2nd annual Midtown shop and dine week, November 11 - 17. During the week-long event, $25 buys a three-course meal in a participating fine dining restaurants, while casual restaurants will feature a meal for two for $25. Both prices exclude alcohol, tax and gratuity. Browse the menus and see a complete list of participating businesses on the web at midtownatlantashopanddineweek. A portion of the event’s net proceeds will benefit the Midtown Neighbors’ Association, a not-for-profit organization with the goal of making Midtown a better place to live and work. midtownatlanta.
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Support the Slow Food Movement in Georgia!
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Next Monday, November 12, Commissioner Tommy Irvin and the Georgia Department of Agriculture are holding the “Georgia Grown Food Show” from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at the Atlanta State Farmers’ Market. Although it’s a trade only event (ie, not open to the public), it’s important to note that Ag Commissioner Tommy Irvin is joining for the first time with the ACF (American Culinary Federation), Slow Food, Georgia Organics and the Georgia Restaurant Association to focus on farm and farmer in Georgia, with a chef connection.
How important is the slow food movement to you? Why?
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Dine In Or Dine Out?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Thanksgiving (gulp) is right around the corner, and many area restaurants are open for folks who don’t want to cook but still want to get their feast on.
Do you, or have you ever, dined out on Thanksgiving Day? If so, why? Were you away from home? Didn’t want to cook? Where did you dine? Was it worth it?
Look for our online listing of Thanksgiving openings this Monday, November 5.
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Where Would You Go for Your Last Meal in Atlanta?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I’m contacted frequently from other publications to provide lists and information on the dining scene in Atlanta. Most often it’s a list of not just the best, but what I consider to be the most quintessential dining experience for the area.
If you had only dine out left in Atlanta, where would you eat? Why? What would be on your plate?
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