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Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Farm to Table Finds
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
It’s here! The “restaurant issue” of Gourmet magazine has hit the stands and this year’s topic is all about eating local.
It was thrilling to see three of the area’s restaurants listed as farm-to-fork ideals: Five & Ten in Athens, Floataway Cafe and the Farmhouse at Serenbe (though the magazine lists former chef Tony Seichrist instead of current chef Nic Bour). And Watershed chef Scott Peacock is credited for bringing artisanal Bobolink Dairy in New Jersey to the table - literally.
While it thrills me to know that a beacon of Gourmet’s stature has finally jumped on the eat-local farm wagon, it’s a little disturbing to think of who’s left off the list. I know — it would be impossible to mention all of our great chefs and farmers. But golly — Michael Tuohy of Woodfire Grill practically spearheaded the movement in Atlanta eons ago. Others that should’ve gotten a nod? Restaurant Eugene and the Globe.
It’s also a little bit of a personal peeve for the slow food movement to be chattered about in high-gloss print as a “trend” and to read that the “buzzwords of the moment are local, seasonal and sustainable.” While editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl does go on to call the “trend” a movement, it sickens me to think of a bunch of kaftan-coiffed ladies who lunch bandying these terms about over three martini lunches just to sound cool.
Water and our food supply are two of our biggest global issues. Global issues start locally. Sustainability cannot be a trend.
What’s your favorite eat-local restaurant? Who’s your favorite Georgia farmer?
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