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August 2007
Do We Need Valets?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I’m always disturbed when I get my car back from a restaurant valet service. The seat is always in a different spot and it takes me the entire ride home to get it back where I like it.
I like the convenience, though, and since most valet services in Atlanta are complimentary, for just a few bucks in tip money I don’t have to park my own car and can head straight into the restaurant. I’ve noticed some friends, however, hate this. They simply don’t feel the convenience is worth it.
What do you think? Do you prefer to use a valet service when it’s provided, or would you rather save $2 to $3 and park your own car?
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Just How Wild is That Salmon?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
The “New Yorker” magazine’s food issue is out this coming week, and among articles from Calvin Trillin about Singapore street food and Jane Kramer’s profile of food writer Claudia Roden, who spent 16 years writing “The Book of Jewish Food,” is a cartoon, from Mick Stevens, of a waiter telling a couple at a table in a restaurant “Your meal will be out shortly. The salmon was a little wilder than we anticipated.”
Hilarious, of course. But it also hits a nerve for someone who eats out a lot and reads a lot of menus. Just how truthful is the restaurant being when it describes fish as wild caught? I see all the time menu notes on how everything is “made from scratch,” when it’s obvious everything isn’t. Are those heirloom tomatoes really heirloom, or are they from Sysco? Even the term organic — which now brings with it very specific requirements from the FDA — is bandied about like nobody’s business. These terms seem more trendy than truthful.
Do you trust the menus you read when you’re dining out? How truthful do you think a restaurant should have to be when it comes to menu writing and description?
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What Dish Could You NOT Live Without?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Last week, we talked about dishes we could live without. I would love it, for instance, if I never saw tiramisu on a dessert menu again.
But the bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with marcona almonds at Repast are not something I would willingly give up. Nor would I the buttery, dense pineapple upside-down cake at the Globe. I could never live without the arugula salad with Parm shards at Baraonda, the pizza at Rosa’s and if I had to do without beef brisket from Sam & Dave’s BBQ I might have a hissy fit.
That’s only a few. What dish could you never live without? Where can we find it?
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What’s your favorite Labor Day food tradition?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Do you like to grill out for Labor Day, or have a big gathering?
Or is your idea of Labor Day going out to eat, and letting someone else labor in the kitchen?
If you’re cooking this Labor Day, share a favorite recipe.
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Where is the best family-friendly restaurant?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW: What’s your favorite family-friendly restaurant?
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Favorite Places to Eat at the Bar
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Last week I commented on the fact that when I dine alone, it’s usually at the bar — most bars allow the enjoyment of the full menu, and it’s a great place to hang out.
My favorites? Shaun’s — the bar here is actually almost peaceful, and I’m always left to my own devices; Ecco — I love to peruse the charcuterie here (and perhaps a small salad) and enjoy a great glass of red wine; the Globe — this ultra mod spot is a great place to people watch and sip from an amazing cocktail list. I also love to explore the incredible wine list at Eno while having a few nibbles.
Where are your favorite places to sit and eat at the bar?
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Where are the Best Tamales?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Each August I venture to Jonesboro to eat at La Oaxaquena Taqueria — a little hole in the wall on Tara Boulevard with the best Mexican food this side of the border. The Oaxacan wonders at this tiny taqueria are the stuff cravings are made of: Tlayudas, the giant, hand-shaped corn tortillas topped with savory beans and spicy chorizo, strings of queso fresco and fresh avocado, with loads of lettuce, tomato and fresh salsas dipped up from a buffet table, or the gorditas with their thick corn tortillas and shredded pork.
Lately it’s the tamales, wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves and steamed to savory perfection, that have me up in the middle of the night looking in the fridge for leftovers…
Where are your favorite tamales?
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What are You Sick and Tired of?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
When I was the dining critic for the Providence Journal in Providence, R.I., I got sooooo sick and tired of tiramisu. The area is rife with really good Italian restaurants, but few of them made this delightful Roman spoon dessert the way it’s actually made in Italy. Sickeningly sweet, frozen, laden with chocolate — it came in lots of forms, and I tired of them all after five years of reviewing.
In Atlanta, I’m beginning to see a pattern at restaurants with shrimp and grits (which I love), oysters on the half shell (let’s face it, not everyone’s menu should offer these) and now, the ubiquitous cheese course (which when well procured is a favorite, but it’s not always well procured).
What dishes would you be happy to never see (or eat) again?
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Al Fresco Dining in This Heat?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
With the heat index at 105 degrees the past few days, it’s hard to imagine anyone wanting to eat outside. During a visit to the the newly unveiled Ray’s on the River this past week, I noticed most people were much happier inside rather than enjoying the few from the beautiful patio.
Where do you like to go to duck the heat? Do you like eating outside when it’s this hot out?
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Staying cool in the kitchen
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Last night I turned the oven up to 450 degrees to preheat to make cornbread, a process that involved placing a cast-iron skillet in the oven to get hot, taking it out (and letting the heat out into the kitchen), adding butter, putting it back in the oven (letting out more heat), pulling it out once the butter melted (more heat), adding the cornbread batter and then opening the oven door again to return it for baking. Then, of course, pulling it out after 20 minutes and letting that hot skillet warm up another corner of the kitchen.
Somewhere in the middle of this, as I cranked up the air conditioner, it occurred to me that this wasn’t an ideal way to beat the heat — although crumbling some of the cornbread into buttermilk for dessert was a nice, cool treat.
What do you cook when it gets this hot? With another 100+ day predicted, I’m planning on salad and microwaved leftovers tonight.
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Do You Like to Go On Gourmet Excursions?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
“Gourmet” magazine is hosting its fifth annual Gourmet Institute (October 19 -21) in New York. It’s a three day “total immersion” featuring classes, tastings and demos by chefs such as Sara Moulton, Thomas Keller and Eric Ripert. There will be panel discussions, cooking demos and pastry and chocolate demos. The magazine is touting the weekend as a great getaway for non-New Yorkers: for $1,395 clams, you get a welcome gala on Friday night, dinner out on Saturday with four seminars/demos and four seminars/demos on Sunday, breakfast and lunch on Saturday and Sunday, plus you can meet editor Ruth Reichl. I’m a pretty big foodie, but I would rarely consider doing something like this. I’d rather go to Spain and eat on my own. Or bike my way through Tuscany on a bike tour. Who likes this sort of thing? Who’s gone to a Gourmet Institute (or other culinary excursion) before? For more info about the Gourmet Institute, go to www.gourmetinstitute.com or call 1-888-308-6133.
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Raw milk’s growing appeal worries health workers
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I wrote an article in late July about a small outbreak of food-borne illness in northwest Georgia tied to raw milk, and got several emails from people who drank unpasteurized milk, looking for more information.
One implied I had made up the outbreak to further a government propaganda campaign against raw milk (I don’t make up stories, just in case anyone subscribes to this view). Another wanted to know if the farm that supplied her milk was the one tied to the outbreak. Within a couple of weeks, The New York Times and the Washington Post had published articles on raw milk, and why it inspires such passion, whether from public health officials who are trying to block its availability, or consumers who seek it out as they search for foods straight from the farm. Clearly, it’s a subject that attracts controversy.
Raw, or unpasteurized milk, has been sold quietly in Georgia for years under the guise of pet milk. It’s sold openly in some metro Atlanta neighborhoods, where groups of buyers meet a delivery truck, and at at least one farmers’ market and a small grocery store. It can’t be sold legally for human consumption. But as long as the milk is labeled for pet consumption only, that seems to satisfy state regulatory authorities.
In other states, raw milk has become a battleground between medical authorities and those who believe unpasteurized milk has health benefits that are wiped out by the heat treatment of pasteurization. At the Georgia Organics convention in March, members asked state Agriculture Commissioner Tommy Irvin about legalizing the sale again for human consumption. He deflected the question, saying he’d OK it if, and when, health officials approved.
That’s not likely to happen, given a high-profile campaign warning of the dangers of drinking raw milk, led by the Food and Drug Administration and the CDC. Medical experts describe pasteurization as one of the great public health achievements of the 20th century, greatly reducing the number of food borne illnesses and deaths. The CDC lists 1,007 confirmed illnesses and 2 deaths linked to raw milk since 1998. Scientists say they’re concerned especially about raw milk being given to children, who are more susceptible to food-borne illnesses because their immune systems aren’t as developed as that of adults. In the Murray County outbreak, some of those sickened with campylobacter were children, including one was who hospitalized briefly.
Raw milk proponents contend that milk from grass-fed cows on clean farms is safer than large-scale, commercial pasteurized milk, and can reduce asthma in children as well as provide other health benefits, such as additional nutrients and probiotics, gut-friendly bacteria that promote digestion. Buyers rave about the creamy taste, and like buying from a farmer they know.
Do you drink raw milk? If not, would you consider it? Is it OK for parents to feed it to young children?
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Where is the best … late-night dining spot?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW: Where’s your favorite late-night dining spot?
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Cupcakes Are Everywhere
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Atlanta is sprouting little bakeries like tulips in spring — and cupcakes are the catch: the Atlanta Cupcake Factory in Poncey Highland, Little Cake Bakery on Roswell Road and now Ellen’s Bakery in Cobb County all concentrate on wee cakes. Belly (in Va/Hi) and Flying Biscuit have always had fun cupcakes, too. Where’s your favorite place to get a cupcake? Are there any other new bakeries out there focusing on cupcake fun? And why the sudden interest in all cakes small?
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Do You Like to Dine Alone?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
As a woman who dines out a lot, I’m often asked if I ever go to restaurants alone.
Very rarely. I usually need a few mouths at the table to get a well-rounded take on the menu. But when I do dine alone, I almost always sit at the bar rather than at a table. I feel more comfortable there, I can chat with the bartenders, and I can get the same things at the bar as I can at a table.
Some people, however, think dining alone is a drag and feel a little intimidated by it — especially women. Do you like to dine alone? Or would you never consider dining out unless you had someone with you?
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What’s your favorite summer vegetable?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
The heat that’s making me wilt whenever I step outside is doing the same thing to plants. In my garden, the tomatoes are going strong, but the pumpkin ripened almost overnight and the peppers are struggling. The eggplant we were getting in CSA boxes dried up in the heat, and even the squash are dwindling.
Gardeners are already dreaming of starting fall crops. It seems hard to believe, with summer still so strong, that I won’t be picking cherry tomatoes by the dozen every day, for much longer.
Fresh tomatoes and basil are the summer favorites I’ll miss most. What’s on the top of your list? Do you have a recipe to share for one of your favorites?
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One steak, hold the carbon monoxide
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Many of us look at the color of the ground beef we’re considering before buying it. If it looks brown, we pass it up.
What if something were added to meat packages that kept the meat looking bright red long after it normally would have oxidized and turned brown? For the past few years, some large meatpackers have added carbon monoxide to packages. It’s also used on some seafood. (In fact, the industry has a nickname for this: Tailpipe tuna.)
The FDA approved the practice, but it’s been controversial with consumers and food safety advocates, who argue that it’s deceptive.
Congress has been looking at the issue, and considering requiring labels that disclose when meat is treated with carbon monoxide. Now FDA Week reports that Tyson Foods, the country’s largest meat processor, will stop packaging meat with carbon monoxide.
Are you aware of this process? Do you pick meat based on its color? Do you think it’s OK to use carbon monoxide to keep a steak cherry-red or pork blush-pink when the meat might be up to five weeks old?
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Londzell’s Jazzes things up in Roswell
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Londzell’s Blues and Jazz Cafe has opened on Holcomb Bridge Road in Roswell, booking local and national jazz and blues artists. The menu has a modern Southern twist, with shrimp and grits, veal meatloaf and a “black and blues” burger headlining. 2300 Holcomb Bridge Road (in the Kroger Shopping Center), 678-795-9100. londzell’s
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Charging for a Neat Drink
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A reader who chooses to remain anonymous emailed to tell me that he recently was charged a $1 fee for a neat drink (plus the cost of the drink) at a local restaurant. Geez… I thought it was bad enough to be charged for ice. Ice fees, neat fees, corkage fees…. what’s next? Napkin fees? Who’s got a horror story here?
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In Search of Better Beers
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Bob Townsend, who writes Beer Town for the AJC and knows everything there is to know about what happens when hops start hoppin,’ recently turned me on to a Rogue Mocha Porter on the beer list at TAP. We drank it with a simple oatmeal cookie sandwich filled with stout ice cream (from cutie pie pastry chef Jonathan St. Hillaire) and it was simple, shining brilliance. With the beer, the whole effect was one of chocolate, molasses and a little bit of dark caramel. It was like eating autumn (which can’t come soon enough).
Other than the Brick Store in Decatur, I’m searching for a better beer list than TAP”s. Who’s got one?
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Fast-Casual Favorites?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Fast-casual concepts are taking over Atlanta — better than fast food, but still cheaper and faster than sitting down for a full-fledged meal. The idea behind most is to get you in and out fast and cheap. Many are local franchises; others are national chains: Tossed (from New York) just opened its second Atlanta location in Decatur. The Real Chow Baby (local) is opening a second location, too. And we all know the success of Raving Brands.
Have you been to any of these places? Which are your favorites? Why?
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Where is the best … fried green tomatoes?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW Which restaurant serves the best fried green tomatoes?
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Where Do you Tell Out of Towners to Eat?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I’m often asked where to send folks coming in from out of town. It’s a tougher question to answer than it seems on the surface — Atlanta has so many world-class restaurants. But most people visiting also want a taste of what’s really Southern, which can be a mixed bag from meat-n-three’s to JCT Kitchen.
I usually end up giving a wide range of suggestions, from Kyma to Joel to Watershed to Bacchanalia to Rexall Grill to Rolling Bones BBQ. Where would your list send out-of-town guests?
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Who’s got the best price for milk?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Milk prices keep getting higher, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture is now predicting they’ll stay elevated through the end of the year. Last week I saw a gallon of store brand milk for $4.29 at Publix, and for $2.99 at Harry’s Farmers Market. Harry’s had raised their price to $3.69 a few weeks ago, but now the cost is back to where it was in early June.
I keep hearing from colleagues that they’re seeing milk for $5 a gallon, but I haven’t noticed that yet. Maybe it’s like filling up the tank; you’ve got to get it before the price goes up again. Who’s got the best price on milk this week? What’s the highest price you’ve seen for a store brand?
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Where’s Your Favorite Cup of Joe?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Coffee roasters Batdorf and Bronson opening in Decatur… Sip the Experience opening in Lindberg City Center…. Starbucks was just the beginning (insert Dr. Evil’s laugh here). Big cities like Atlanta love their coffee lounges.
Where’s your favorite spot to grab a cup of joe? Why?
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What Kind of Water do You Like to Drink?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
The heat has made us all more aware of how hydrated we need to stay. I’m noticing more and more Atlanta restaurants automatically offering bottled water — still and with bubbles — to get things started at the table. When Seeger’s offered nothing but bottled waters years ago the restaurant was skewered for its snobbishness. Now we feel gypped if we’re not offered a variety. What type of water do you prefer when dining out? Are you willing to pay for bottled water?
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What kind of corn is better, yellow or white?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A couple of weeks ago I bought a bunch of fresh corn at the Marietta Square farmers’ market, and from a produce stand around the corner from my house. One was yellow corn, picked so recently that the husks were still bright green. The other was sweet white corn.
After years of eating Silver Queen white corn, I think of white corn as the sweetest and best, perfect even without butter and boiled just for a minute or so. But not all white corn is as sweet — this was a little bland, and the yellow corn was better. This weekend, I stopped at Osage Farms in Mountain City, Ga., where I usually stock up on Silver Queen, and saw that they’d added a sweet yellow variety this year. So maybe I’ve been missing out all this time.
With 12 ears of white corn in the box this week from Riverview Farms, the community-supported agriculture program I belong to, one thing’s for sure: I’ll have plenty of chances to compare.
What kind of corn do you prefer, yellow or white? Do you think there’s a difference? Do you have a favorite corn recipe to share?
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Why Does a Negative Review Seem More “Honest?”
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
After receiving several emails regarding my “poor” rating of Geisha House (here’s the review in accessAtlanta) in Atlantic Station, I’m prompted to ask the reading public: Why is it that when I write something scathingly negative it’s perceived as more honest? Many readers — kindly I add — wrote to tell me thanks for such honesty in my writing.
While I appreciate the kind input, I’m befuddled. Often when I give a restaurant a four-star review I get response that clearly perceives the review as puffed up or jaded by me in some way. In other words, negative is perceived as “honest,” while high praise is perceived as trumped up.
Let me state for the record that negative, positive or in between, I am always trying to be as honest as possible in my assessment of a restaurant. So why is negative perceived as “honest?”
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Are Flirty Cocktails Passe?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
There’s been a lot of change in cocktails in the past ten years. The whole pink drink fling seems to be waning, making way for first gin, and now tequila, to make big comebacks. Vodka, the one-taste-fits-all spirit, is taking a backseat to stiffer cocktails made the old-fashioned way, but with modern twists.
Retro cocktails — the kind that Nick and Nora Charles would have stirred up — are back and being served at places like the Globe, C & S Seafood and Oyster Bar and Restaurant Eugene. What do you think of these everything-old-is-new-again cocktails? Where’s your favorite place to sip one?
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Repast and Taqueria del Sol in Bon Appetit
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Atlanta restaurants are getting big nods from national publications of late. This month, the Farmhouse at Serenbe is mentioned as a great place to go green. September’s issue of the gourmet mag has Repast in Midtown featured in a section highlighting 12 of the best small restaurants in the country, categorized as “small, intimate places where the chef is in the kitchen and cooking every night.” Congrats to chef-owners and husband-and-wife team Joseph Truex and Mihoko Obunai!
In another feature, Taqueria del Sol gets a nod as one of three best places in the country for tacos. Want more? The Food Network will reveal other winners in the best hamburger, best pizza, best steak, best fried chicken and best ribs categories on August 18.
Repast, 620 Glen Iris Drive. 404-870-8707, Repast restaurant
Taqueria de Sol, original location at 1200 Howell Mill Road N.W., #B. 404-352-5811. Taqureria del Sol
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French Food Fading?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
With Joel’s recent closing for a major overhaul of both space and menu (it will reopen later this year), and the sad news that Seasons de Provence in Acworth is also closing, Francophiles are left with but a few options in Atlanta. FAB’s opening certainly helps to curb those cravings for crepes to be sure, but frankly, we don’t have a lot of really great French restaurants. Where do you like to go for French food?
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Where is the best … fruit and veggie market?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW: The summer growing season is beginning to wind down. Before it’s too late, we want to know: Where are the best fruit and veggie markets?
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In His Element?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Reader Derek Turney wrote a wonderful email to let me know that while “I usually agree with your assessment …. I can’t believe you gave Element a good review… Richard Blais is obviously talented but Element is like a bunch of culinary school graduates opening their first restaurant on a shoestring.” Who’s been to Element? Do you think the whole molecular gastronomy movement is bunk or a misunderstood aspect of culinary arts?
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Martini Time
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Where’s your favorite place to get a real martini — you know, the kind made with GIN that isn’t colored pink?
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Happy Birthday to La Petite Auberge!
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
I can remember a dinner, years ago, at La Petite Auberge. It was Junior/Senior prom night, and this tiny French restaurant, tucked away in the Toco Hills Shopping Center, was my and my white tuxedo-ed date’s destination. It was 1978, and the first time I had ever eaten quail; I had never seen a creme brulee before. The restaurant had opened a four years prior and had become THE spot to take someone for a romantic dinner. La Petite Auberge is celebrating 33 years of service to the Atlanta Dining community — a milestone for any business, but especially one for a restaurant. From August 16 through September 1, the restaurant will offer a special anniversary menu with classics such as sole meuniere, bananas Foster and bouillabasse. From August 30 through September 8, the restaurant will offer lunch and dinner items for 33% off (with a special coupon soon to be available through the AJC). 2935 North Druid Hills Road, Atlanta, 404-634-6288, www.petiteauberge.com
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Rathbun’s Stake
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A reader emailed while I was away on vacation last week to let me know that his experience at Kevin Rathbun Steak wasn’t worth the four stars I had given it in the paper the week prior. “I’m a huge fan of Rathbun’s (my favorite in town after Bacchanalia),” he wrote, “and Krog Bar. …. I was dying to try this place out. I was hoping months ago that it would be just like the review of yours I read today. It wasn’t for me — not even close.” Truth be told, my first meal at Rathbun’s wasn’t perfect, but with each visit it got better and better. What’s your experience at Kevin Rathbun Steak? Have you been? Do you plan to go?
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What’s your favorite fried okra fix?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
There’s one sure way to get someone to eat a vegetable they don’t like: Fry it. Why else would fried okra be on the menu at so many meat-and-threes this time of year?
Think about it: How often do you see stewed tomatoes and okra, another classic Southern dish, on cafeteria lines? But fried okra is everywhere. (And fried squash, for that matter.)
Tender young okra pods, the best for cooking, are abundant in farmers’ markets now, and in some community-supported agriculture deliveries. We got a small paper bag of okra tucked into our box from Riverview Farms last week. Later in the season, I might try lightly sauteing the okra or stewing it, when the pods get larger and tougher. But with the first okra, I fried. And it was delicious — blanched for two minutes in boiling water first, to partially cook the okra, then rolled in a cornmeal and egg batter with a shot of Tabasco sauce before frying for four minutes. Better than any fried okra I’ve had in Atlanta, although not as good as the whole fried okra with spicy pomegranate ketchup we ate earlier this summer at Guadalupe Cafe, a small restaurant specializing in local foods in Sylva, N.C. But I’m not going to try that at home.
Where’s your favorite place to get fried okra? Do you prepare it at home? If so, what’s your favorite recipe for it?
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Will you buy Peter Pan peanut butter again?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
In February, Peter Pan peanut butter vanished from stores after it was linked to a salmonella outbreak that sickened at least 628 people. ConAgra Foods, which makes Peter Pan, attributed the problem to a leaky roof and a sprinkler system that moistened peanuts or dust in the plant, creating conditions that allowed salmonella to grow.
Peter Pan, made only at that plant in Sylvester, Ga., has been out of stores while ConAgra renovated the plant and put on a new roof. The company plans to resume making the peanut butter and return Peter Pan to stores in late August.
Will you buy that brand of peanut butter again? If so, why? If not, why not? And were you a Peter Pan buyer before?
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Where is the best … summer cocktail?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW: What’s your favorite summer cocktail and where do you go to get it?
Permalink | Comments (25) | Categories: Where is the best
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