Home > Table Talk > Archives > 2007 > July > 23 > Entry
Should I Dine in Disguise?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Dining critics try to remain anonymous when dining so that 1. They receive no special treatment from servers and staff who may recognize them. 2. They can avoid special treats from the kitchen sent just for them. 3. They can remain as objective as possible and maintain a proper distance from the staff. It’s best to dine at a restaurant two or three times before writing about it, so by the time (over the course of a month to six weeks) I’ve finished visiting, the staff has often figured out who I am. I take lots of precautions — I use a fake credit card and, of course, never make reservations in my own name. I use a cell phone with an ID block to make reservations. Still, I’m getting found out in Atlanta. Ruth Reichl made a big deal out of the fact that she used to wear disguises while working as the critic for the NY Times. I think that’s going over board, but am wondering — should a dining critic wear disguises to prevent being recognized?
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Comments
By Speakeasy
July 23, 2007 2:58 PM | Link to this
I must say, there are a ton of people in the area who’ve made it a point to recognize you and the other food writers in town. I myself have waited on you 4 times at two dfferent restaurants. Most kitchens should know not to send out anything extra. managers just want to make sure you get the best service there is. A good MF review is money in the bank for everyone: servers, owners, chefs. So to be objective, should you go in disguise? sure. ha ha ha
By Darin
July 23, 2007 3:26 PM | Link to this
I think an obviously phony disguise would be a tip off to the staff, so unless you have the ability to use really excellent ones I would suggest not even trying. Does it help to go to restaurants during their busiest times so they are too swamped to worry about recognizing anyone? I think that getting recognized is just one of the inevitable drawbacks to dining criticism.
I would like to see dining critics use a take-out order as one of their ‘visits’ to a restaurant. That way the food is prepared before anyone could possibly recongize the critic, and there’s also an opportunity to write about the place’s ability to prepare tae-out food.
By Paul
July 23, 2007 3:55 PM | Link to this
There are photos of you posted in many restaurants—in the “back rooms”. The ones that know who you are, know. You get better treatment. The ones that don’t know who you are have an unfair disadvantage, considering that. Think it over and buy some wigs and wear different styles of makeup and clothing.
By Laura
July 23, 2007 4:13 PM | Link to this
I agree with Darin. Only use a disguise if it’s one that doesn’t look completely fake. Otherwise, they’ll be onto you based on that alone. But I agree that there’s only so much you can do to change yourself (wig, scarf). You shouldn’t get any better treatment than any other customer, but I’m sure that you do.
By No Food Critics
July 23, 2007 4:36 PM | Link to this
I don’t think there should be food critics at all and people that think critics are something special need help. You may not like something I absolutely love and vice-versa. It’s the same with any type of critic. And people think they’re special. Taste is subjective. The only thing special about a food critic is that they’re being paid to dine out.
By Rae
July 23, 2007 4:59 PM | Link to this
I argee with No Food Critics. It would be more interesting to simply write that a new restaurant has opened (is opening soon) and invite a variety of real customers to write about their experiences. Hopefully a cross section of actual resturant patrons - foodies, wine snobs, and everyday diners included- would respond. Their varying takes on their experiences would be of more help to the average casual diner than all the food critics write ups in the world.
By Eats Out Often
July 23, 2007 5:43 PM | Link to this
I must respectfully disagree with No Food Critics. I eat out often. How often? I haven’t used my microwave, stove or oven in over a year. A food critic is valuable to me for several reasons. First, she (in this case) provides a common reference over many months, many genres, many restaurants. I may not agree with her, but once I come to know her preferences, likes, dislikes, etc., I can adjust accordingly. For this reason, a random cross-section of diners at every restaurant is less useful to me. Second, I trust that a food critic will be a professional and perform the review accordingly. Bad day at work, fight with a spouse, worried about a medical test … I would expect these to affect the review of an average diner, but less so the professional food critic. Third, she has dined out countless times before and is better able to distinguish mere irritations from the truly bad. Similarly, she eats at a restaurant more than once, giving her the ability to recognize one-offs versus patterns. Food critics may not be relevant to all, but they do provide a valuable service to some. As to Ms. Ford’s original question: this won’t help in judging the service, but if the main goal is critiquing the food, send your party ahead of you to order, then join the table the minute the food comes. Can you imagine the manager’s and chef’s faces when they realize what just happened?!
By Ann
July 24, 2007 8:15 AM | Link to this
Yes, wear a disguise. Maybe you’ll notice a change in service. Anoniminity should an “actual service” experience; a la other patrons. Try out disguises at home and get comfortable in them; developing different personas to keep your acting “real” should make it fun too. Bon chance & bon appetit!
By ron
July 24, 2007 8:28 AM | Link to this
Does a food critic actually serve any useful purpose other than to use an expense account and get free meals?Does anyone pay attention to what they write,and if so ,why?Are you so busy that you don't have time to visit a restaurant and judge it for yourself?I'll decide if a restaurant is suitable for me or not.Food critics are totally useless creatures that are too full of their own self importance.