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Monday, July 23, 2007
Should I Dine in Disguise, Part II
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Interesting responses to an earlier posting today about whether or not I should dine in disguise. I am getting recognized, but does that give unfair advantage to the restaurants who know? My issue is I don’t want to be more absorbed with a disguise than I am the experience at the restaurant. My policy, FYI, is to mention that I felt I was recognized in the review. There are many cities’ dining critics — including Atlanta — who have been doing this for a living for many, many years. There’s no way we won’t eventually be recognized. But you can’t make a great chef in a night. Service, I feel, is the real issue. And if there are photos of me posted on the back rooms of kitchens, for goodness sake I hope they show my good side! Thanks for everyone’s input — including those who feel dining critics should be eliminated.
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More Manuel’s, Too
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Turning 50 last year hasn’t slowed down the folks at Manuel’s Tavern. This year, they’re celebrating 51 from August 6 and through August 10. Special guests and old-time employees will be on hand to aid in the revelry. 602 North Highland Ave., 404-525-3447, www.manuelstavern.com
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More Marlow’s
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
A new Marlow’s Tavern, the third in the area, opens August 7 in Midtown Plaza. The menu is a mix of Tavern favorites such as grouper topped with black bean-and-corn salsa served with jalapeno grits or bone-in ribeye with warm gorgonzola sauce. Plaza Midtown is yet another mega building in Midtown between West Peachtree and Spring Streets at 8th Street — just behind another mega wonder, the Spire Building. It’s great space for retailers and restaurants, though —- the building boasts 70,000 square feet of retail space. Steel, the upscale Asian restaurant from Dallas, is scheduled to join the party later this year, too. Marlow’s Tavern, 950 West Peachtree Street, Suite 215, www.marlowstavern.com
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Should I Dine in Disguise?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Dining critics try to remain anonymous when dining so that 1. They receive no special treatment from servers and staff who may recognize them. 2. They can avoid special treats from the kitchen sent just for them. 3. They can remain as objective as possible and maintain a proper distance from the staff. It’s best to dine at a restaurant two or three times before writing about it, so by the time (over the course of a month to six weeks) I’ve finished visiting, the staff has often figured out who I am. I take lots of precautions — I use a fake credit card and, of course, never make reservations in my own name. I use a cell phone with an ID block to make reservations. Still, I’m getting found out in Atlanta. Ruth Reichl made a big deal out of the fact that she used to wear disguises while working as the critic for the NY Times. I think that’s going over board, but am wondering — should a dining critic wear disguises to prevent being recognized?
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