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DEL.ICIO.USHooked on grouper’s versatility
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
GROUPER, A MEMBER of the sea bass family, is a solitary fish. It lives its life in warm, sometimes tropical, waters all over the globe, coming out of its hiding place to eat and mate. Some fish can grow as long as 12 feet and weigh up to 1,000 pounds, and there are, ahem, fish tales of groupers befriending — and sometimes eating — divers.
But the reason grouper is making the rounds on lots of Atlanta menus isn’t because of its scuba diving social skills. It’s because it tastes good and is sturdy and versatile — it can be fried, broiled, poached, grilled and even baked and still remain fleshy, flaky and tender with an appealing flavor that rarely tastes too fishy (and like good jewelry, it goes with everything).
Deep frying it in cornmeal batter and serving it up po’ boy style seems to be the method du jour at Thrive, downtown. Like the fish, this sandwich is a whopper — a huge piece of grouper fillet sits on top of a bun too big to bite into, with fried green tomatoes and a Thousand Island dressing in place of remoulade. It’s a heap to eat, and worth the splurge in calories. Across town, Lobby at Twelve inside Atlantic Station serves a sloppy mix of fried grouper with a yummy, messy slaw that’s just the right mix of sweet and twang.
Farmhouse at Serenbe, inside the Serenbe Community in Palmetto, goes ga ga with grouper, dressing up the humble fish as a thick, luscious seared fillet over quinoa and sliced, seared-and-buttered brussels sprouts.
Other places, other things: Meanwhile, chef Richard Blais has resurfaced in Atlanta at Element, the restaurant that has taken over Cherry’s old space, with new owners.
After spending eight months in Miami working for Barton G as a creative product developer, the chef most known for his molecular take on milkshakes is “thrilled to be back” in the ATL. “I missed the kitchen and I missed the great products and sourcing we have in this city,” Blais said via phone last week.
“I’m focusing more now on ingredients, not just the scientific element of food,” he added. Blais left the helm at One Midtown Kitchen for Miami after having a brief tenure as restaurateur at his eponymous restaurant in Buckhead before it closed in early 2004. His molecular approach to cooking wowed critics, but left the public balking.
At Element, Blais says he “doesn’t plan to take good ingredients for granted anymore. The scientific approach to food doesn’t always focus on ingredients, but I’m very excited about getting back in the kitchen and using the best product available.”
But don’t think he’s gone granola just yet. Element’s current menu boasts “oysters and pearls,” a tapas serving of beausoleil oysters on the half shell with Dippin’ Dots of Meyer lemon ice cream made with Blais’ favorite tool of the trade — liquid nitrogen. He’ll also serve pressed pork belly served with pickled succotash and cilantro stem, prime beef filet served with whipped corn, blue cheese and bone marrow and Carolina fluke accompanied by scallop gnocchi and beet root.
Move over guys, the bad boy of brunoise appears to be back.
Thrive, 101 Marietta St., Atlanta, 404-389-1000, www.thriveatl.com
Lobby at Twelve, 361 17th St. (inside Twelve Hotel at Atlantic Station), 404-961-7370, www
.concentricsrestaurants.com
The Inn at Serenbe and Farmhouse at Serenbe, 10950 Hutchesons Ferry Road, Palmetto, 770-463-2610 www.serenbe.com
Element Restaurant & Lounge, 1051 West Peachtree St., Atlanta, 404-745-3001, www.elementmidtown.com
What do you think of molecular cooking? Who knows their sous vide from their immersion circulator? Have you tried it in Atlanta? Tell me about it.
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Comments
By Bob Fusillo
May 30, 2007 11:22 AM | Link to this
As questionable as the identity of grouper and supposed grouper has come to be, how do we know we are getting the real thing?
By d ruskin
June 4, 2007 5:26 PM | Link to this
I love molecular cooking after dining at Element, Sat. after the Highlands festival.The experience was fun and the food expertly prepared and served with a twist of a science/experiment. The favors and textures worked so well together and we’re looking forward to our next visit.