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Wednesday, May 16, 2007
Savory vegetable stew uses chard, spinach
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Our refrigerator is stuffed with greens right now, thanks to overlapping seasons from the community-supported agriculture plans we’re subscribing to. Last week we got Swiss chard, turnip greens and lettuce from Farmer’s Fresh Food Network, and lettuce, Napa cabbage, kale and spinach from Cane Creek Farm.
We’ve eaten innumerable salads, including packing one every day in the kids’ school lunches. The kale showed up in a Mother’s Day lunch with sausages and beer (maybe a better dish for Father’s Day, but since someone else was cooking, I just shut up and ate). But what to do with all the chard and the handful of spinach? This filling, savory vegetable stew took care of it and, thanks to the curry flavoring, which is just mildly spicy, passed the kid test.
We’re still trying to figure out how to use the Napa cabbage and turnip greens. Any suggestions? Any thoughts on how to cook the next batch of Swiss chard?
- Elizabeth Lee
Curried Chickpea, Lentil and Swiss Chard Stew
8 servings
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes
1 1/2 cups dried French lentils (green lentils or lentilles du Puy)
4 parsley stems
2 sprigs of celery with leaves
4 sprigs of thyme
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced
Kosher salt or fine sea salt
2 quarts low-sodium chicken broth
2 teaspoons curry powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 large bunch of Swiss chard, leaves only, coarsely chopped (about 12 cups); round out with spinach if needed
2 cups canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed (about 1 15-ounce can)
2 teaspoons cumin seeds (see note)
1 cup Greek-style yogurt for garnish
Place the lentils in a fine-mesh colander and rinse under cold running water. Set aside. Make a bouquet garni by tying together the parsley, celery leaves and thyme with cooking twine, or wrapping in cheesecloth and tying. (A wire mesh tea infuser would also work).
In a large stock pot, combine the oil, bouquet garni, onion and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Cook, covered, over low heat until soft but not browned, for about 3 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Add the lentils, curry powder and cayenne and stir. Simmer, covered, until the lentils are tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, toast the cumin by placing seeds in a small, dry skillet over moderate heat. Shake the pan regularly until the cumin seeds are fragrant and evenly toasted, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook; they burn easily. Transfer to a large plate to cool, and set aside.
When the lentils are tender, add the chard leaves and chickpeas and cook until the leaves are wilted, about 5 minutes more. Remove the bouquet garni. Adjust seasoning if needed. When serving soup, top each bowl with a spoonful of yogurt and a sprinkling of toasted cumin.
- Adapted from “Vegetable Harvest” by Patricia Wells (William Morrow, $34.95)
Note: If you don’t want to buy cumin seeds and have ground cumin on hand, just skip the toasting step and sprinkle a pinch of cumin over the yogurt.
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Battle of the BBQ joints
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Today’s review is about LowCounty Barbeque Outpost.
Our reviewer thinks these folks have some mean spare ribs.
Who else has good spare ribs or barbeque to offer?
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Biscuit flying up, not selling out
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE LIVE IN A WORLD where star chefs such as Todd English and Wolfgang Puck add to their dining dynasties by opening extensions of established restaurants in airports. Where Wal-Mart claims to sell organic food. Where food diva Rachael Ray becomes the spokesperson for Dunkin’ Donuts.
Can you say sell-out?
I can. And I can define it, too. It happens when someone who already has loads more than he or she could possibly need keeps prostituting themselves for more. And it happens all the time in the food industry.
It didn’t happen with local restaurateur Delia Champion of Flying Biscuit Café. It’s easy for those of us who’ve loved her tattered-and-tatto@oed haven in Candler Park since it opened in 1993 to wonder why last year she sold her concept to Raving Brands (which operates Mama Fu’s, Doc Green’s and Shane’s Rib Shack, among many). Blog boards were cluttered with comments when the news was announced last May, with copious amounts of support and criticism.
BITA HONARVAR / Staff
Flying Biscuit owner Delia Champion has been criticized for selling to Raving Brands, which plans to expand to other areas.
And truly, it’s difficult to duplicate a concept like Flying Biscuit. The original location, with it’s grungy take on grits-goes-gourmet, has a very loud personality. Making two (which Champion did with a second location in Midtown) and keeping the corporate clutch at bay is a daunting task; even the Midtown location lacks the inner-city-goes-country charm of the original.
So the idea of turning an eclectic neighborhood restaurant with a broad fan base and a boffo breakfast menu that needs personal, loving touches in the kitchen into a chain is abhorrent to most foodies.
Well, get over it. Champion, like most struggling restaurateurs, saw an opportunity she couldn’t refuse. Most of us would do the same if it meant financial freedom for our families. In a press release, she states “… they [Raving Brands] have the resources and infrastructure to do things I could never do — better opportunities for employees, better food procurement, deep experience in store and real estate development, all of which will be important to our ability to expand the Biscuit in a way that maintains the integrity of the food and the experience.” Champion and Raving Brands are working with each other to replicate the Biscuit in other areas.
Local franchisee John Slocum and Q100 “Bert Show” radio personality Jeff Dauler, operating under Let’s Go Back, LLC, have teamed to put the five franchises in place. The first, located at 3515 Northside Parkway in Atlanta, was set to open May 14.
So while we may be critical of the process, and even critical of the end means, we shouldn’t be critical of Champion — she has a small restaurant in Candler Park we all love.
I hate the thought of the Biscuit showing up on the corner of every new strip mall in Alpharetta. But I don’t think Champion has become the spokesperson for White Lily flour, nor is she staging an opening in Las Vegas. Not yet anyway.
Who’s been to the first Flying Biscuit franchise? Tell me about it.
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Where is the best … tapas?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
WE WANT TO KNOW: The trend toward tapas and small plates is still going strong. Where do you go to get the best?
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