For months, Elizabeth Hornor wondered why her clothes didn't seem to look or hang right. She decided to seek help by going to her first bra fitting in years. The petite 48-year-old woman found out she was wearing the wrong bra.

Skeptical about the fitting, Hornor got a second — and third — opinion. The Decatur woman was satisfied that the bra specialists at Saks, Victoria's Secret and Dillard's at North Point Mall were right when they sized her up as a 32C, not a 34B.

CARING FOR YOUR BRA Wash every two to three uses. Hand washing is preferable. Use a gentle detergent, such as Ivory Snow or Dreft. Consumer Reports says the detergent doesn't have to be a specialty product, but it should be mild and should not contain bleach. Lingerie boutiques recommend Forever New Fabric Care Wash ($6 for an 8-ounce bottle or $15 for a 32-ounce bottle). Fasten bra hooks in the back so they don't catch on other clothes or items (like the agitator) in the washer. Protect bras by placing them in a lingerie bag in the washer. Use cold water and wash on your machine's gentle or delicate cycle. Never put bras in the dryer. Hang bras to dry. BY THE NUMBERS 4: The average number of bras a woman buys every year. 6: The average number of bras each woman owns. 34B to 36C: The increase in bust size in the past 15 years. $9 billion: How much is spent on bras each year. Source: ShopSmartmag.org and National Geographic Channel

"It took some time, but it was worth it," Hornor said. "I think my clothes look better, and I feel better about the way I look."

Hornor isn't the only American woman wearing the wrong size bra. Some industry estimates say eight out of 10 women wear a bra that does not fit or is the wrong size.

Often, if the bra is ill-fitting, the band size (36, 38, 46, etc.) is too large and the cup size (AA to J) is too small. But even if the size is right, the style or cut may be wrong. That could make the bra feel uncomfortable and create an unflattering shape.

The good news is that you can find support, lift and comfort no matter what size or shape you are.

For bra shopping help, we talked to several experts, including Sandra Saffle of Nordstrom, Robin Ashwander of Dillard's and Elisabeth Squires, author of "bOObs: A Guide to Your Girls," a breast health and bra guide.

Do you need a new bra or bra size?

You do if you:

• Gain or lose weight
• Become pregnant
• Start or stop nursing
• Use birth control or hormone replacement therapy
• Stop or start exercising
• Have had breast surgery
• Age (hard to avoid)

Are you wearing the wrong bra?

Probably, if your bra rides up, feels too tight or if the straps slip or dig into your shoulders. Other clues: The cup wrinkles or you frequently adjust or tug at the bra.

How do you find the right size?

Find an experienced bra fitter, get measured and take your time (an hour or more) trying on bras — just like you would jeans or swimsuits.

A fitter can give you a rough idea of what size you are and narrow down the best styles (padded, underwire, seamless, etc.), brands, fabric and colors for you. A bra fits right when you put it on and don't think about it.

Where can you be fitted?

Most major department stores, such as Dillard's, Nordstrom, Macy's and J.C. Penney, have trained bra specialists in their lingerie departments. These retailers also offer specially advertised bra-fitting events. Smaller lingerie shops, like Victoria's Secret and Soma, also offer bra fittings. So do lingerie boutiques, such as Intimacy in Phipps Plaza or the Blue Corset Co. in Buckhead.

At most stores, you can walk in or make an appointment for a bra fitting, a service that is customarily free. Don't feel pressured to buy a bra at a fitting, our experts said.

How do you find a good fitter?

Ask. In general, you want the assistance of an experienced fitter who has seen different breasts and is familiar with a variety of bra styles and brands. Ask about the fitter's training and experience. Some fitters have more than others. Tell the fitter, if they don't ask, about your lifestyle and work.

In addition to experience and training, you want someone you (or your young daughter) feel comfortable with. If not, ask for another fitter or try a different store.

What happens at a fitting?

Bra fittings are done in a dressing room, not out on the lingerie floor. Most often, the fitter checks your size with a tape measure using two measurements: One is across the fullest part of your bust, and the other is below the rib cage, just under the breasts.

At Intimacy, no tape measure is used. In a dressing room, fitters ask you to disrobe and assess your size by looking at you with your bra on — and with your shirt off. They also ask you to remove your bra so they can see your natural shape.

After they size you up, fitters hit the floor to search for the right size and style. They often bring you several bras to try on. A fitter should adjust the straps and explain how to adjust the breast tissue in the cup before fastening the hooks.

Then look at yourself sideways in a mirror to make sure your breasts sit midway between your shoulder and elbows. Also try on a close fitting shirt or silky kimono (available in many dressing rooms) over the bra to make sure it does not pucker.

Can I measure myself?

It is difficult to accurately measure yourself with a tape measure, but it can be done. Various online sites offer tips and guidance. A few to check: www.herroom.com, www.myintimacy.com, www.barenecessities.com, www.victoriasecret.com.

All our experts said bra fitting and measuring is an art, not a science, but getting your measurements is a good place to start.

What do bras cost?

Quality bras can cost $30 to $50, or more. Once you get fitted and find the size, brand and style that works for you, wait for sales or shop for deals online or at discount and outlet stores. After her fitting, Hornor bought two bras at www.barenecessities.com.

What types of bras should you own?

One bra style will not work for all fashions or functions. Though your sports bra may be your secret favorite, it does not work for every outfit. Your bra wardrobe should include a minimum of four or more bras:

• A seamless bra, often called a T-shirt bra. These bras may be lightly padded to prevent show and tell under the tightest shirts or anything sheer.

• A strapless or a convertible bra, which can be adjusted to suit halter, low-cut and backless tops and dresses. It is not something you need all the time, but it is good to have for summer fashions or formalwear.

• A seamed bra. The more seams a bra has, the more shape and support you have, said Dillard's Robin Ashwander. If you have jackets, blouses or dresses with darts, you need a bra with seams.

• An active or sports bra for exercising at the gym or working in the yard.

In your basic bra wardrobe, include colors of black (because we have so much black clothing) and nude or beige, which look better under white tops and T-shirts than white.

How long will your bra last?

Because it is worn so often, a bra loses elasticity over time, and generally lasts about six months to two years. To help extend the life of your bras, do not wear the same bra two days in a row. Rotate bras so they have a chance to rest for a day.