Q: I purchased a radon test kit and ran the test as instructed in my basement. It came back with a reading of 3. From Web site information, I learned that the federal guideline is anything 4 or under is fine. I also contacted a local radon inspector who told me that the readings typically drop by 1/3 for every level you go up from the test level.

In my house, the main level should have a reading of 2 and the top floor a reading of around 1.3-1.5. It seems the Atlanta metro area is prone to higher readings than other parts of the country.

Is this information accurate? With a reading of 3 in my basement, should I consider venting this area to the outside in order to reduce the level? Is any level safe? Any information and assistance you can provide would be very much appreciated.

A: Although the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) action level is 4 picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/L), any amount of radon can pose some risk.

The EPA estimates the cost of reducing your radon levels with a venting system to be about $1,200. This of course will vary with the size of your home and the type of construction. I have never heard that readings typically drop by 1/3 for every level of the home but it makes sense. To make a decision on whether or not to "fix" your home you might consider the cost and how much time you spend in your basement. If you rarely go into the basement it may not be worth it to you.

To answer the last part of your question, metro Atlanta is not necessarily prone to higher readings than other parts of the country, but the four-county area including Cobb, Fulton, DeKalb and Gwinnett counties are rated by the EPA for high radon potential.

Q: I have a stand-alone shower stall that has a nickel size crack in the floor. The one-piece shower lining is made of acrylic or fiberglass (I'm not sure which). Who could make this type of repair? Would they need to remove the lining to check for mold under the floor? Thanks for your help.

A: As long as the rest of your shower is in good condition almost any hole or crack can be repaired by a professional. In fact, most repairs typically only take a couple of hours and are not terribly costly. I would recommend looking in the yellow pages or doing a Google search to find contractors that specialize in repairs of fiberglass and acrylic tubs and showers.

As always, it is best to get at least three estimates and compare both the prices and your level of comfort with the contractors. As far as mold is concerned, it is impossible to tell if it is growing without looking at the area under the shower. Removing the shower, of course, significantly increases the cost of your repair.

If you have another way of visually accessing the bottom of the shower, like through an adjoining closet or bedroom wall, you might consider removing a small piece of drywall from the wall and taking a look. Small drywall repairs are simple and inexpensive compared to removing the shower stall.