Now may be the ideal time to prune many trees, shrubs and perennials, but before you grab a blade, make sure you know what you're doing.

Don't take your frustrations at work out on the plants by hacking away without a plan. And more importantly, be certain the plant is one that should be pruned this time of year.

(ENLARGE)
It's OK to prune abelia now
(ENLARGE)
Forsythia is already blooming in some areas and should not be pruned.
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"Not everything needs to be pruned," says Bob Westerfield, a horticulturist for the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension.

Here's a rule of thumb: Plants that bloom in summer on new growth — crape myrtles, butterfly bushes, gardenias and evergreens such as hollies — should be pruned now through February. But those that bloom in spring on old wood — where their buds were formed the previous summer, such as forsythia, dogwood and azaleas — should not be pruned until this summer after their blooms have faded. Otherwise, you'll cut off the buds and have no blooms.

Why prune at all? Besides controlling an overgrown plant or ridding it of dead wood, pruning improves a plant's overall health by stimulating growth.

But don't get carried away. Instead of shearing a plant as you would a hedge, use one of two main techniques — topping and thinning — that produce thicker, fuller plants.

Before you start, round up the necessary tools and make sure blades are razor-sharp. You'll need hand pruners for stems up to about finger size, loppers for large branches in hard-to-reach places and a pruning saw for limbs more than 2 inches thick.

PRUNE THESE PLANTS NOW

Typically, trees,

shrubs and perennials that bloom in summer on new growth should be pruned now through February, before that new growth appears. They include:

Abelia, Barberry, Beautyberry, Butterfly bush, Crape myrtle, Floribunda roses, Goldenrain tree, Grandiflora roses, Hydrangea (see note), Japanese spirea, Lantana, Mimosa, Miscanthus, Nandina, Rose of Sharon, Russian sage, Salvia, Sourwood, Sweetshrub, Tea olive, Vitex

WAIT UNTIL SUMMER FOR THESE

Trees, shrubs and perennials that bloom in spring on old wood — on which buds were set the previous summer — should not be pruned until this summer after they have bloomed.

They include:

Azalea, Bradford pear, Bridal wreath spirea, Clematis, Climbing roses, Crab apple, Dogwood, Flowering almond, Flowering cherry, Flowering quince, Forsythia, Hydrangea (see note), Japanese kerria, Japanese pieris, Pyracantha, Redbud, Shrub honeysuckle, Saucer magnolia, Star magnolia, Viburnum, Winter daphne, Wisteria

Topping
Thinning

HYDRANGEAS: WHICH TO PRUNE WHEN?

Some hydrangeas should be pruned severely now, others only selectively, some not at all. It all depends on the species. In general, according to the American Hydrangea Society, Hydrangea arborescens, such as 'Annabelle', and H. paniculata (PeeGee), which both bloom on new wood, can be cut to about 8 inches now. Yet species that bloom on old wood, such as H. macrophylla (the traditional mopheads and lacecaps) should be pruned only selectively in late winter: Remove three or four dead or older canes in the interior of the shrub to promote air circulation and light. Prune branches just above the point at which new growth emerges. And H. quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangeas) don't require pruning at all. But if you want to encourage a thicker plant, pinch back branches in June after the shrub has flowered to avoid removing new buds, which are set in fall for the following year. More information: American Hydrangea Society

TOPPING

Topping (or heading/shearing) a tree or shrub removes the outer growing points, thickening the plant into the desired shape and size.

THINNING

More useful than topping, thinning is selectively removing shoots from the plant's interior, allowing air and light to penetrate. This produces a fuller plant while discouraging disease and infestation.

MANAGING A LARGE BRANCH

Remove the bulk of the branch to reduce weight. Leave a foot-long stub. Then, to avoid tearing bark: 1) cut upward partway through the stub; 2) cut downward, slightly away from the first cut; and 3) cut off the stub, leaving the branch collar so the wound will heal.

MORE INFORMATION

A free UGA Extension publication, "Basic Principles of Pruning Woody Ornamentals," is available online at pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubs/pdf/B949.pdf or from your county Extension office.