Let's talk old school: not casseroles, not crockpot dishes, but really old school — gelatin salads. Fruit chunks suspended in quivering masses of red, green or orange sweetness; humble, retro, tasty. Some people sneer at them, but for others, the "salads" are the ultimate comfort dessert. We explore them in this installment of Saving Southern Food, just in time for the Fourth of July potluck.

The contributor: Alane Brown, a 49-year-old personal banker with Bank of America. She lives in Loganville but grew up in the small town of Mount Gilead, N.C., where she spent many a day on her grandmother Gladys Wilder's wraparound porch.

LOUIE FAVORITE/AJC (ENLARGE)

Green Congealed Salad.

Family photo (ENLARGE)

Gladys Wilder's congealed salad was 'great in the summertime when it was hot,' recalls contributor Alane Brown.

Archive of restoration recipes Anne Quatrano Co-chef/owner of Bacchanalia, Quinones, Star Provisions and Floataway Cafe in Atlanta  Even ketchup was made from scratch  These deviled eggs were made with loving care  Green Congealed Salad is perfect comfort dessert for summer  This spice cake takes extra time, but it's worth it  'Extra special' folks got to eat asparagus casserole  This strawberry cake is well worth the fuss  Sad Cake will put a smile on your face  Mother has real talent for handling hot potatoes  In big family, 'you always had a dessert'

The story: "Grandmother lived next door to the town's general store, which was started by my grandfather. It was right at the crossroads of our little town, which had only about 1,200 people. Across the street from the house and the store was an underwear factory, United Mills. My mother worked at the factory, and at lunch a bunch of people from the factory would come across the street to my grandmother's. Her house had two big magnolia trees in the yard and this big wraparound porch and lots of chairs. That's where people would congregate. My grandmother was a really good cook, simple country cooking and she made enough for everybody, even though people usually brought their lunch. She had this Hoosier cabinet and it and the sideboards would be full. One thing she always made was green congealed salad. It was great in the summertime when it was hot. She'd just make it in a pan and we'd just scoop it out with a big spoon. I could eat that like ice cream, and to this day I'd rather have it than dessert. It's just one of those old-timey recipes that's been forgotten over time.

"My grandmother died when she was 94 years old, in 1990, and by then I'd moved to Atlanta. But since I moved here, I made the salad once for some people that my husband and I had over for dinner. I made country fried steak with pan gravy, mashed potatoes, pole beans with fatback, squash with onions and the green salad. The people we had over were a couple and the husband was from the South too, but the wife was from the North. He was so surprised and thrilled to have [the salad] he didn't want to leave. Couldn't get enough. So I sent the rest home with him."

Green Congealed Salad
12 servings

Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 2 hours (includes chilling time)

When you want to serve something cool and classic, this salad fits the bill. And everyone secretly loves it. Serve it in a pretty glass bowl, or chill it in a ring mold and invert it onto a platter at serving time. (Dip the mold into a bowl of hot water for a few seconds before inverting.)

2 1/2 cups water, divided
2 (3-ounce) boxes lime gelatin
1 (16-ounce) carton cottage cheese
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 (20-ounce) can crushed pineapple in pineapple juice
1 cup chopped pecans, more for garnish, if desired

Bring 1 cup water to boil. Place the gelatin in a bowl and pour the boiling water over it. Stir until dissolved. Stir in 1 1/2 cups cold water. Let cool to lukewarm (you can place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes, but do not let it set). In a separate bowl, combine the cottage cheese and mayonnaise. Stir in the pineapple with its juice. Stir in the cooled gelatin mixture. Stir in the nuts. Carefully pour the mixture into a large ring mold or serving bowl. Chill until firm. Garnish with nuts, if desired.

Per serving: 258 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 7 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 15 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 6 milligrams cholesterol, 242 milligrams sodium.