SOUTHERN RECIPE RESTORATION PROJECT

This strawberry cake is well worth the fuss


For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 05/29/08

The contributor: Donna Benson, a former Realtor who lives in Lawrenceville, describes herself as not so much as a cooking enthusiast but a "cooking laziast."

"I love good, easy recipes, but I only like to cook when I want to cook," she said. A grandmother of seven boys and one girl, she has been married to Nelson Benson for 47 years.

Chris Hunt/AJC
Mildred's Strawberry Cake.
 
Family photo
Mildred Melton holds her daughter Donna in 1944.
 
Archive of restoration recipes

The story: "My mother, Mildred Melton, was famous for her strawberry cake, but I have a hard time getting it to come out right every time. I fussed at my mother for years, asking her, 'Why can't I get it perfect?' And she said, 'Oh, when I got old, I didn't worry about it being perfect.' But it always was."

The trick, says Benson, is to cook the milk and sugar until it is thick enough to drip just a few dribbles down the cake and then hold its shape, mid-drip. But it shouldn't be cooked to the point that it will become sticky when it cools. "My siblings and the families always want me to make this cake at Christmas, and every year I say, 'Never again.' They always say it doesn't matter how it looks or whether it's perfect, but you always want it to be."

Melton was a red-headed Atlanta native of Irish descent with a knack for cooking. She and her husband, Ira Melton Sr., married in 1938 and raised five children in Pine Lake. They were founding members of Pine Lake Baptist Church. Mildred Melton died in 2002; this May she would have turned 88.

"She was just a great woman; everybody loved her," Benson said.

Mildred's Strawberry Cake
12 servings

Hands on: 1 hour
Total time: 2 1/2 hours (if you bake your own cake)

Admittedly, getting this cake exactly right is tricky. But as Donna Benson's family members always reassure her, don't worry if it isn't perfect. It will still be delicious - somewhere between a gooey tres leches cake and a strawberry shortcake.

2 1/2 cups whole milk
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 layers white cake — made from scratch, a mix or store-bought
2 (1-pound) containers frozen, sweetened, sliced strawberries, thawed and drained
1 cup heavy whipping cream, whipped (optional)

In a tall saucepan, combine the milk and sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 35 to 40 minutes, or until mixture begins to thicken but is still creamy white. When done, 2 drops of the mixture will stick together when drizzled from a wooden spoon (our tester's candy thermometer registered 218 degrees). If in doubt, undercook rather than overcook — if it cooks too long, it becomes too sticky to eat when cooled. It it's not cooked enough, it will just pool a little at the bottom of the cake - no harm done. Allow the mixture to cool slightly.

To assemble, slice each cake layer horizontally to create 4 layers. Place one cake layer on a serving plate. Spread with some of the glaze and about one-fourth of the strawberries. Top with another cake layer and repeat. Finish with a layer of glaze and strawberries on the top of the cake, allowing the glaze to drip down the sides. Garnish with whipped cream, if desired.

Per serving: 490 calories (percent of calories from fat, 21), 5 grams protein, 94 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 12 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 42 milligrams cholesterol, 328 milligrams sodium.

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