For this installment of our ongoing series, Atlanta cookbook author Virginia Willis updated an old-fashioned peach pickle recipe by adding a few more spices, and simplifying the process by avoiding the canning process. (However, we have included instructions for the traditional method as well.)

Chris Hunt/Staff (ENLARGE)

Pickled peaches: Try them and you might like them.

Family photo (ENLARGE)

Bobbie Adams Howard.

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The contributor: Stan Howard, a retired insurance adjuster. "I live on a hill in Alabama where I can see across the river into the great state of Georgia. They say that some of the last shots of the Civil War were fired down on the Federal troops from this hill, as they entered Columbus, Ga."

The story: "Some people wrinkled their nose at the words 'peach pickles' or 'pickled peaches,' but have you ever tried this before?

"Some years ago when my mom, Bobbie Adams Howard, was younger and able to do more, I would go over around July Fourth, to Talbotton, Ga., which is about 40 miles away, and get some fresh Elberta peaches that just came off the tree. Big, plump, juicy beauties.

Mama would carefully prepare and sterilize quart Mason jars, then she would peel the peaches and boil them in a mixture of vinegar and sugar, with a few cloves, and then very carefully seal about six of them with the vinegar and sugar mixture in each jar (removing the cloves first). This would preserve the peaches. She would open hers for Thanksgiving and Christmas. They are good with turkey and dressing or ham.

I would always save mine for about a year, and let them get a little softer and mellow with age. Then I would get a slice of her coconut cake with thick moist yellow layers that was made from scratch with farm-fresh eggs, and fresh grated coconut as a topping and in the filling. Breathtaking, to say the least.

Sometimes, when coconut wasn't available, I would substitute her fantastic chocolate cake.

I would sprinkle the juice from the peaches over the slice of cake, and remove the seed from the peach and cut the peach in tiny pieces and drop them over and around the slice of cake. Man! This would make your tongue spank your brains.

Now for the real artery stopper: I would get a big scoop of Mr. John's Old Fashioned Vanilla Ice Cream (a local brand) and put it on top of all this. Mmmm! I just gained 2 pounds telling you about it. This was better than anything that I had for dessert in Vienna, Austria, which, as you know, has a reputation as the source of the finest pastry and desserts in the world.

My mom is 90 years old now and still doesn't have many gray hairs except for the ones that I gave her when I was growing up.

Although she doesn't do much cooking of this nature now, she has shared this recipe, along with others, with my daughters and coached them in preparing dishes and delicacies of the past. Many of her recipes' measurements are based on her taste and experiments. They were handed down to her many years ago from her mother and her older sisters."

— As told to Susan Puckett

Bobbie Adams Howard's Peach Pickles (original recipe, in her words, no measurements given)

"Wash and scald jars. Set in oven in a pan with top up; keep warm. Put lids and rings in a boiler and keep water warm. Lids and rings should be hot to seal jars. Peel peaches (preferably Elberta peaches from the Talbotton, Ga., area ... but use as close to this type peach as available in your area) and rinse and set aside until ready to use. Mix vinegar and sugar in a boiler and bring to a boil. Taste mixture and add vinegar or sugar until satisfied with taste.

Then place peaches in mixture with cloves and boil down until peaches are slightly soft. (Note: Taste mixture as you add small amounts of cloves to control taste.) This can be tested by sticking a plastic fork in them. Caution: Do not use metal fork as this will cause them to taste bad eventually.

Then remove peaches from mixture and place in the jars that have been heated. This helps to sterilize jars, and to seal the mixture.

"Remove cloves from mixture. Then pour only vinegar and sugar mixture over peaches; fill jars with mixture. Just before using, dry lids and rings, being careful to keep them hot to enable them to seal.

Install lids and rings. You may have to sit some of the jars upside down until they seal.

For best taste, do not refrigerate until after [the jar has been] opened. Don't open until Thanksgiving or Christmas. They are even better when they age for a year."

Updated Pickled Peaches — Refrigerator and Traditional Method
Makes about 1 3/4 quarts (4 half-pints or 2 pints or 1 quart plus 1 pint)

Hands on: 50 minutes
Total time: 1 hour (and several days for the flavors to marry)

Atlanta cookbook author Virginia Willis decided to spice up Mrs. Howard's recipe by adding cinnamon, ginger and allspice to her basic formula. For such a small batch, she decided to simplify the process by skipping the boiling water bath that seals them and makes them shelf stable, and make "refrigerator pickles" instead. Prepare the jars and lids as directed in the first paragraph below, then once the peaches are ready, simply fill the jars and seal.

The peaches must be kept in the refrigerator and will last up to 4 weeks. The flavors will marry and improve after a few days.

It's also a nice seasonal gift to share with friends and family, so she suggests making them in half-pint or pint jars to share.

If you want to make a shelf-stable product that does not need to be kept in the refrigerator, you need a home canning kit. This kit includes everything you'll need: a boiling water canner, rack, lid and canning tongs to safely lower and remove the jars. Many contain starter jars, tempered glass jars with a two-piece cap with a flat, rubber-lined metal lid and a metal screw band. The jars and lids must be sterilized before filling.

12 peaches (about 6 pounds)
1 lemon, halved
1 quart white vinegar
4 cups granulated sugar
4 sticks cinnamon, halved
2 tablespoons whole cloves
1 tablespoon whole allspice
2 inches ginger, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices

Refrigerator method: Place the jars and lids in a large stockpot and cover with water by an inch to submerge. Bring the water to a gentle boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Keep them in hot water until ready to fill.

Peel the peaches and remove the pits. Rub the peaches with the halved lemon to prevent discoloration.

Meanwhile, in a second large, heavy-duty pot, combine the vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, allspice and ginger. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until fragrant and flavorful, about 15 minutes.

Add the peeled peaches and stir to combine. Cook until just tender but not soft, about 10 minutes, depending on the ripeness of the peaches. Remove the jars and lids from the hot water and dry with a clean kitchen towel. Fit the prepared jars with a canning funnel or carefully spoon the peaches in, taking care not to spill the juices, and fill the jars, leaving 1-inch of head space. Seal tightly and store in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.

Traditional method for longer storage: Once filled and sealed, submerge jars in the boiling water canner, making sure they are covered by at least 1 inch. It is necessary to set a timer after the water is boiling for 20 minutes of processing.

For more canning information: See the Ball canning company Web site: www.freshpreserving.com.

Per 1/4-cup serving: 150 calories (percent of calories from fat, 1), 1 gram protein, 39 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, trace fat (trace saturated), no cholesterol, 2 milligrams sodium.