Culinary roots: Born and raised in Atlanta. Worked at Mr. B's Bistro in New Orleans and DC Coast in the nation's capital before he and his wife, Gina, opened Restaurant Eugene in Buckhead three years ago. Hopkins named his restaurant after his grandfather, Eugene Holeman, a chemist by trade, reared on a Tennessee farm who instilled in his grandson a deep appreciation for traditional Southern dishes and ingredients.

Career highlights: Selected to compete in the Food Network's "Iron Chef" competition last August. Named one of "five chefs to watch" by Bon Appétit in 2005. Restaurant Eugene listed in best new restaurants of 2004 by Esquire magazine.

Louie Favorite/Staff (ENLARGE)

Linton Hopkins' succotash, based on his grandfather's recipe.

Photo provided by Linton Hopkins (ENLARGE)

A young Linton Hopkins (right in sweater) enjoys dinner with family, including his main cooking teacher, his bespectacled grandfather Eugene, who also didn't use recipes.

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Favorite childhood dish: His grandfather's succotash.

The story: "My grandfather Eugene did most of the cooking at the family farm in Tennessee. He cooked a lot like me, sans recipes. In the summertime, he'd use tomatoes from his garden, corn from local farmers he knew. Nearly every night, he would toss a simple green salad with a vinaigrette he mixed from scratch.

"As president of the FDA for the state of Tennessee, he was always going to farmers markets and picking up local foods from places he'd travel to. Sometimes he would take me with him to visit Civil War battlefields and burial sites of ancestors. We were always very close.

"My sister and I spent two weeks every summer at their house. For family dinners, he might bake a ham, fry pork chops or pan-fry some chicken. And he would almost always serve succotash as the table vegetable. It was just a classic thing. My mother told me a story about her sister, Missie, who didn't like butter beans. She would have to sit at the table until she finished the beans.

"I've always loved the fresh limas, though. Growing up, my favorite way was just with butter and lots of fresh black pepper."

How he has adapted it: "At the restaurant, I stay true to this recipe but I do small variations. Before butter beans come in, we will use crowder peas or pink-eyed peas. The succotash is equally delicious with lady peas. Instead of bacon grease I will usually use butter and add bacon lardons to finish, instead of serving it with baked ham as my grandfather did. I love pairing succotash with corn milk-poached lobster, grilled shrimp or sautéed scallops. We also play with the herbs a bit, tarragon, basil or sorrel. One of the things I love about it is its versatility."

— Susan Puckett

Linton Hopkins' Succotash

6 servings

Hands on: 20 minutes

Total time: 40-50 minutes

2 cups shelled butter beans

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon bacon grease or butter

1 cup minced Vidalia onion

2 cups freshly shucked corn niblets

1 cup heavy cream

Salt and black pepper to taste

1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes, optional

1 tablespoon chopped parsley, basil, tarragon, sorrel or other herb, optional

2-3 tablespoons chopped cooked bacon, optional

Place butter beans in a medium saucepan; cover with water. Add about a teaspoon of salt, bring to a boil and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes, skimming any scum that rises to the surface. Drain, shock in ice water and reserve. In a large skillet, heat bacon grease or butter over medium heat until hot. Add onion; cook and stir until soft and tender. Add corn and sauté for 5 minutes more, or until corn slightly softens. Add butter beans and heavy cream; cook over medium heat until cream reduces slightly, 5 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper. Stir in optional tomatoes, herb and bacon and cook a few more minutes.

Per serving (without optional ingredients): 414 calories (percent of calories from fat, 37), 17 grams protein, 52 grams carbohydrates, 18 grams fiber, 18 grams fat (10 grams saturated), 60 milligrams cholesterol, 85 milligrams sodium.