Sweetwater Motor Boat Ale

Sweetwater Motor Boat Ale, Sweetwater Brewing Co., Atlanta

• $8.69 / six-pack at metro beverage stores; also on draft at metro beer bars.

BOB TOWNSEND
BEER PICK

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• Bob Townsend is editor of Southern Brew News, a bimonthly beer publication distributed throughout the Southeast.

Profile: Sweetwater switched the recipe for its award-winning — and now defunct — ESB (extra special/strong bitter), adding the herbal essence of Sterling hops, and dry-hopping it with citrusy Cascade. Part of the limited-edition Catch & Release seasonal series, this naughty fall ale has been christened Motor Boat. But by any name, it’s a long way from Sweetwater’s original, much less aggressive ESB. Russet-brown in color, with a sweet malt and faintly floral hop aroma, Motor Boat features a medium body, roasted malt flavor and tingly bitterness. At around 6 percent alcohol by volume, it drinks a lot like a hopped-up American brown ale, which should make it a crowd-pleaser on draft.

• Pair with: The dark roasted malt and bright citrus hop combination in Motor Boat begs for smoky barbecue, hot Buffalo wings, spicy pizza and piquant Mexican dishes. And it would certainly make an easygoing match for that ubiquitous pub grub favorite, a cheeseburger and fries.