SOUTHERN RECIPE RESTORATION PROJECT: Fabled casserole makes transition to 21st century

Sometimes there’s nothing that soothes the soul like a creamy classic like chicken divan —- a chicken and broccoli casserole that was the signature dish at the 1950s New York restaurant the Divan Parisienne.

Over the years, that recipe has undergone a thousand incarnations in the name of convenience: frozen broccoli replaced fresh, soup instead of cream, the crunchy topping made with anything from bread crumbs to crushed crackers.

One young couple had a sentimental attachment to a chicken divan recipe but longed for a way to make it healthier and more sophisticated.

The contributor: Lynsey Morris Barron, a third-year law student at Emory University, who is married to Graham Barron, a lawyer. She hails from Birmingham; he grew up in East Point. .

The story: “I never had the privilege of knowing my mother-in-law, Margaret Erwin Barron. She died of cancer in 1992. But I knew how much her family loved her chicken divan.

“My father-in-law, George Barron, belonged to the Rotary Club in East Point, and they used to eat chicken divan at their meetings. It was his favorite dish, so Margaret started making it at home on special occasions.

“A few years ago, my husband told me that he hadn’t had it since his mom died, and he wanted to see if it was as good as he remembered.

“I had certainly heard of chicken divan and had seen variations of it at Southern-style potlucks before, but I had always been a little suspicious, as it looks just like white glop over dry chicken and mushy broccoli. When Graham made it for me the first time, I was surprised at how good it actually tastes, but we both agreed that it needed some updating.”

Chicken Divan

4 to 6 servings

Hands on: 15 minutes

Total time: 40 minutes

Chef Virginia Willis updated this classic. Panko (Japanese bread crumbs), can be found in the international or baking section of most supermarkets.

1 to 1 1/2 pounds cooked chicken meat (from 1 rotisserie chicken), cut or torn into bite-size pieces

1 small head broccoli, cut into florets, steamed

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups milk, preferably whole

1 sprig parsley

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon whole peppercorns

2 tablespoons butter, plus extra for greasing the dish

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Pinch cayenne pepper

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup freshly grated Gruyere cheese

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1/2 cup panko

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish. Spread the sliced chicken over the bottom of the dish. Top the chicken with broccoli and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Place the milk in a small saucepan with parsley, bay leaf and peppercorns. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then remove from the heat to steep. Strain the milk, but keep warm. Set aside.

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add the flour and cook, whisking for 2 to 3 minutes, until foaming. Remove the saucepan from the heat, allow it to cool for a minute, then whisk in the strained warm milk until no lumps remain. Return the saucepan to the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until thick. Add mustard, cayenne and nutmeg and season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, combine the Gruyere and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses. Add half the cheese to the sauce, and stir until it is completely melted.

Pour sauce over the chicken and broccoli. Combine remaining 1/2 cup cheese with panko and spread over the sauce. Bake until the top is browned and the sauce is bubbly, about 25 minutes.

Per serving (based on four): 473 calories (percent of calories from fat, 43), 49 grams protein, 17 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 22 grams fat (12 grams saturated), 149 milligrams cholesterol, 505 milligrams sodium.