Dear Food Goddess:

‘Once upon a time, at a wedding the bride chose a cake that remains legendary in my mind. The cake itself was “crunchy” rather than “cake-y.” The coloring was that of a carrot cake, but it wasn’t carrot. It wasn’t spicy, and I’m pretty sure it had ground pecans in the cake part. The frosting was white, but I don’t think it was cream-cheese based. I realize this is a very vague description, but if anyone knows what kind of cake has a crunchy consistency, the goddess does! Thank you for your dedication to those of us in pursuit of the delicious! It was amazing and unusual. Even if we don’t find it, I’m humbled by your attempt!’

TAMI SCHUSTER, Conyers

When the goddess first received this inquiry, she was befuddled. A crunchy cake with the coloring of a carrot cake. Even for the self-proclaimed Sherlock Holmes of the culinary world, that description was a little lacking. The astral adviser prodded Ms. Schuster for a little more information. When she received elucidation, it all became crystal clear. Schuster writes: “The crunchy consistency of the cake part made me think it was perhaps made of egg whites, sugar, nuts (probably ground pecans) and perhaps a wee bit of flour or something to make it bind. There were several layers, each separated by a thin layer of frosting —- just enough to stick the layers together. It was very light. I’ve seen demonstrations of flourless cakes and wonder could this be like that?”

What Schuster describes is a dacquoise (pronounced da-KWAHZ), a classic French cake composed of several layers of a nut meringue, usually layered with a buttercream of some sort. There is no flour in the cake layers, just beaten egg whites, sugar and finely ground nuts, cornstarch and cream of tartar to hold it together. A dacquoise can be made with hazelnuts, almonds, pecans or even pistachios. The mixture is usually piped in a circular fashion to specific measurements on foil or baking sheets for consistent size for stacking.

In general, when something is referred to as a flourless cake, it is a rich, dense cake made with chocolate, ground almonds and eggs and butter. The effect is almost fudgelike, the antithesis of the ethereal dacquoise.

The Food Goddess wishes to answer all your food questions and share your kitchen tips and recipe requests. Write to foodgoddess@ajc.com or to Food Goddess, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, Sixth Floor, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303.

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