Sure, you can host a formal, cuisine de frankfurters dinner party. But sometimes, you just want a hot dog the way Dad used to grill 'em in the backyard. Only better. For expert advice on making the great American pastime food, we consulted Leo Shababy Jr., owner of Avondale Estates institution Skip's Hot Dogs.

"The biggest mistake people make is using poor quality meat," says Shababy, who goes through about 50 pounds of dogs daily (not counting his thriving catering business) at Skip's. "Most people, unfortunately, the way they describe a hot dog is what they put on it, not what they put it on."

Chris Hunt/AJC (ENLARGE)

Pigs in a Kimono are rolled in won tons and sesame seeds. See the link to the recipe below.

YOUR GUIDE TO HOT DOGS • Frank talk about dogs: Pure beef is perfection • Humble hot dog gets its due from lifelong fan • Sample these tube steaks of distinction TASTY RECIPES • Hot Dog Pizza • Pigs in a Kimono • Warm Wheat Beer Potato Salad • Beard-ed Dogs • Franks for the Memory PERFECT FOR SUMMER • Grilling recipes • Atlanta Picnic recipes and guide • Atlanta Summer Events Guide

Shababy recommends using "pure beef" dogs (as opposed to "all beef," which can contain additives), with his personal preference being a natural casing pure beef dog that "snaps when you bite into it." If you're grilling in the backyard, he recommends using a bigger dog and using charcoal instead of propane. Steaming or toasting the buns is a must.

Atop his own dogs, Shababy likes mustard "with a little kick to it," a kosher dill relish that's not too sweet and some fresh onions. But the Chicago native is well aware that toppings are a matter of personal — and regional — taste.

"I've learned that whatever you've grown up on, that will usually be the hot dog you will like the best," said Shababy, who can't bring himself to put slaw on his own dog. "The bottom line is, eat the hot dog you've been raised on, and just be an American. It doesn't get any easier and better than that."

TOP 10 PACKAGED VARIETIES
(Consumer Reports, July 2007. Trained tasters ranked 23 brands overall, based on flavor and texture)
• 1. Hebrew National Kosher Beef Franks
• 2. Nathan's Famous Skinless Beef Franks
• 3. Boar's Head Skinless Beef Franks
• 4. Hebrew National Kosher Reduced-Fat Beef Franks
• 5. Boar's Head Lite Skinless Beef Franks
• 6. Ball Park Beef Franks
• 7. Sabrett Skinless Beef Frankfurters
• 8. Oscar Mayer Beef Franks
• 9. Oscar Mayer Light Beef Franks
• 10. Applegate Farms The Great Organic Uncured Hot Dogs

Consumer Reports Top Quick Picks, which also take into account nutrition and price:
• 1. Hebrew National Kosher Reduced-Fat Beef Franks
• 2. Boar's Head Lite Skinless Beef Franks
• 3. Oscar Mayer Light Beef Franks