Most all red velvet cake recipes call for cocoa, buttermilk, a little vinegar and soda. But bakers have different opinions about the type of fat and flour to use, and the amount of red food coloring to add. Nor does everyone top it with cream cheese; below are some of the variances, from meringue to nuts. (This blue-ribbon winner appeals to those in the buttercream camp.) If you are truly ambitious and wish to make our heart cake shown in this story, follow the cake recipe below, applying the frosting of your choice. Then cover in rolled fondant with fondant roses. Go to www.wilton.com for instructions.

Joey Ivansco/Staff (ENLARGE)

Who can resist Red Velvet Cupcakes with cream cheese frosting?

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Red Velvet Cake
12 servings or 24 cupcakes

Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 50 minutes

This old-fashioned recipe uses oil and cake flour, which creates a fine, moist crumb — the kind that can be picked up between the tines of a fork. This undated recipe comes from www.recipesource.com, where it's identified as one found in "Celebrating Our Mothers' Kitchen," a fund-raising book published by the National Council for Negro Women. It's iced with cream cheese frosting.

For the cake:
2 1/4 cups cake flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cocoa
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
2 eggs
2 teaspoons red food coloring
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon white vinegar
1 cup buttermilk

For the Cream Cheese Frosting:
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, slightly soft
8 ounces cream cheese
1 (1-pound) box confectioners' sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

To prepare the cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray two 9-inch pans or one large heart-shaped pan with baking spray. (Or prepare 24 cupcake tins with liners.)

In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking soda, salt and cocoa.

Mix together the sugar and oil on low speed in a mixing bowl until well-blended. Add eggs one at a time, blending well after each addition. Blend in the food coloring, vanilla and vinegar.

Alternately blend in the flour mixture and the buttermilk, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients.

Pour into prepared pans and bake for 20 to 25 minutes (for cakes or cupcakes), or until the cake springs back when touched in the center. Cool on racks for 5 minutes, then remove from the pan(s). When completely cool, frost with cream cheese frosting.

To prepare the frosting: In a mixer using a paddle attachment, cream together the butter and cream cheese. Add the sugar and vanilla and cream until light and fluffy.

Per serving (including frosting): 719 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 5 grams protein, 81 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 43 grams fat (13 grams saturated), 77 milligrams cholesterol, 374 milligrams sodium.

Toasted Pecan Topping
12 servings

Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes

We found this oddity in "The Southern Heritage Cakes Cookbook," published in 1983 by Oxmoor House/Southern Living.

2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 cup chopped pecans
2 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
3 tablespoons whipping cream
1 teaspoon vanilla

Place the butter and pecans in a 9-inch square pan and bake at 200 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring after 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels; set aside. Combine the sugar, cream and vanilla in a small mixing bowl; beat with a paddle attachment until smooth. Stir in the pecans.

Per serving: 175 calories (percent of calories from fat, 50), 1 gram protein, 22 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 10 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 10 milligrams cholesterol, 21 milligrams sodium.

Red Velvet Poundcake
16 servings

Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 2 hours, 25 minutes

If you love the color and flavor of red velvet cake, but prefer the texture of a poundcake, this version is for you. It was developed years ago by the late Jackie Tulloh, a food consultant who tested recipes for the AJC for many years, in response to a reader's request.

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened to room temperature
3 cups granulated sugar
6 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 (1-ounce) bottle or 2 tablespoons red food coloring
3 cups cake flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon cocoa
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 cup buttermilk
Cream Cheese Frosting, see Red Velvet Cake recipe, or alternative frosting

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease and flour a 10-inch tube pan; set aside.

In a large mixing bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla and food coloring. In another large bowl, combine the flour, salt and cocoa. Dissolve the baking soda in the vinegar and add to the buttermilk. Alternate stirring in the flour and buttermilk, beginning and ending with the flour. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake for about 1 hour, 20 minutes or until cake is done and a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Cool in pan about 10 minutes. Remove cake from pan to a wire rack to cool completely before frosting.

Per serving: 569 calories (percent of calories from fat, 38), 6 grams protein, 83 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 24 grams fat (15 grams saturated), 142 milligrams cholesterol, 373 milligrams sodium.

Swiss Meringue
12 servings

Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 20 minutes

This meringue is a favorite because it's easy to make and creates a strong, smooth final product, similar to Italian meringue. Use it to ice our fanciful red velvet cupcakes.

1/2 cup egg whites (from 4 large eggs)
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Set up a bain marie (double boiler), using the bowl of an electric mixer for the top and filling the bottom saucepan 1/3 with water. Bring the water to a boil, and reduce to a simmer.

Place the egg whites, sugar and cream of tartar in the bowl of the electric mixer, and place the bowl over the simmering water, whisking constantly. Whisk until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is warm to the touch (110 degrees on an instant-read thermometer).

Remove the mixture from the heat, and whip it with an electric mixer at high speed until stiff peaks form, about 4 minutes. Do not overwhip. A flavoring can be added at this point, if desired.

Per serving: 70 calories (percent of calories from fat, 0), 1 gram protein, 17 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, no fat, no cholesterol, 17 milligrams sodium.