Many readers contributed stories and recipes about boiled or "stirred" custard. All varied only slightly, mainly in the quantity of sugar and vanilla and in the thickener; some used cornstarch while others used flour.

Mike McKinney of Dallas, Ga., wrote that his University of Georgia roommate, Charles Pugh, introduced him to his grandmother's boiled custard recipe more than 35 years ago while they were in school, and he's made it many times since. "It is very good over fresh fruit and will keep in the refrigerator for a week or so," he said. "It needs shaking or stirring before you use it each time, as it tends to separate a little. We used to keep it in a milk jug and put it over canned peaches when we had no fresh fruit (which was most of the time)."

Family photo (ENLARGE)

While waiting for the custard to be ready, Peter Gordy (from left), cousin Nancy Dunaway and sister Jill Gordy shelled peas.

Joey Ivansco/Staff (ENLARGE)

Chef Anne Quatrano, of Bacchanalia demonstrates the different forms of custard and how to prepare them.

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Ann Giles of Watkinsville also submitted hers, describing it as "not only a holiday treat" but also a "comfort" food being given after an illness. She added that "it is best served over Jell-O cubes or in a sherbet dish along with Christmas jam or coconut cakes."

To her taste, though, chef Anne Quatrano thought this recipe had just the right balance of ingredients.

The contributor: Peter Gordy, an Atlanta marketing consultant and father of two grown children who hails from Toadsuck, Ark. (near Conway).

The story: "For as long as I can remember, a woman named Mabel worked for my Aunt Eula [Dunaway], one of those great Southern ladies you never saw in pants and [who] always wore a big hat whenever she worked in the garden.

"Mabel had no trouble disciplining my cousin Nancy, who lived across the street, or any of us that played on the block. But if we were good and didn't wake Aunt Eula during her afternoon nap, Mabel would make us kids boiled custard. She said her grandmother taught her how to make it. The custard was never boiled, and she served it cold over sliced bananas. And always with a sprinkle of nutmeg. Heaven in a bowl."

TIPS FOR CUSTARD SUCCESS:

1. Temper the eggs by scalding the milk, then slowly adding the hot milk to the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Tempering prevents curdling by slowly increasing the temperature of the eggs.
2. Above: Return the custard to the heat and slowly cook over low heat for a few minutes or until it coats the back of a spoon. To tell when it is ready, dip the spoon into the custard, hold it up to let the excess drip off, then drag your finger through the middle to see if it leaves a path.
3. Right: Strain the custard through a fine sieve before cooling — this will guarantee a fine, smooth custard each and every time.
4. To quickly cool it, set the bowl of custard in a bowl of ice, stirring occasionally.

Mabel's Boiled Custard That Isn't Boiled

8 servings

Hands on: 30-40 minutes
Total time: 30-40 minutes

The name for this recipe makes an important point about custard: Though many are called "boiled," if it gets that hot, you're likely to wind up with scrambled eggs. Follow either of the methods here for cooking this old-fashioned treat, and you should not have that problem. Chef Anne Quatrano notes that, besides pouring it over berries or fruit, it would make a glorious banana pudding or ice cream base (but omit the butter).

1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
3 eggs
1 quart milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon butter

Mabel's method: Put 1 1/2 inches of water in the lower portion of a double boiler and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, in the top half of the double boiler, off the stove, mix sugar and cornstarch well.

Using a fork, beat eggs in a small bowl. Slowly add the milk to the sugar/cornstarch. Mix it very well. Add in the beaten eggs; mix it some more. The better it is all combined, the less chance of lumps.

Cook over the double boiler for 10-12 minutes or longer, stirring often, until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon (or reaches 140 degrees on a candy thermometer).

Remove from heat. Strain it if it has lumps. Put the custard into a bowl and add the vanilla and butter. Stir well to mix. Refrigerate. Serve over bananas with a sprinkle of nutmeg. Also delicious over strawberries or raspberries, or by itself.

Anne Quatrano's 10-minute method: Heat the milk to a low simmer. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, cornstarch and sugar. Slowly temper the eggs by beating in small ladles (2 ounces or so) of warm milk. (This minimizes the risk of curdling.) Repeat process until all milk is combined with the eggs. Return mixture to the saucepan and cook over very low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, or just until mixture coats the back of the spoon. Remove from heat and add vanilla and butter in small pats, stirring until incorporated. Strain to remove any lumps, if needed, and cool over ice bath or in shallow dish in refrigerator.

Per serving: 204 calories (percent of calories from fat, 24), 6 grams protein, 33 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 5 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 83 milligrams cholesterol, 97 milligrams sodium.

— Susan Puckett