4 servings

Hands on: 10 minutes

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Total time: 1 hour, 45 minutes

The rich, piquant, hickory-smoked thighs are downright addictive when served alone. They also happen to be a healthy substitute for pulled pork in breakfast casseroles, quesadillas, sandwiches and corn bread salad.

4 chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon chopped basil

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup hickory or pecan wood chips

Place the chicken thighs in a large glass bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, basil and salt. Pour the marinade over the chicken, turning each piece to coat both sides. Cover and marinate at room temperature for 1 hour. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350 degrees and soak the wood chips in water for a half-hour.

Scatter the wood chips on the bottom of a roasting pan with a rack insert and a secure lid. Heat the roasting pan on high (on the stove) until the chips begin to smolder, about 8 minutes. Place the chicken thighs on the rack over the smoldering wood chips, cover the roasting pan with a secure lid or aluminum foil and reduce heat to medium. Smoke the chicken on the stovetop for 20 minutes.

Transfer the thighs to a baking sheet and finish in the oven until they reach an internal temperature of 165 degrees, about 20 minutes.

- Adapted from "Southern Thighways" by Sara Gibbs (Border Springs Press, $15)

Per serving: 94 calories (percent of calories from fat, 64), 8 grams protein, trace carbohydrates, trace fiber, 7 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 28 milligrams cholesterol, 144 milligrams sodium.