4 servings

Hands on: 40 minutes

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Total time: 40 minutes

When I first saw that this recipe - from Chuck Subra, executive chef of La Cote Brasserie in New Orleans - called for an entire tablespoon of Tabasco, I was skeptical. I mean, really, it's a risotto, not a Bloody Mary. I have never been so happily wrong. This risotto is creamy down-home goodness in a pan. The wine, cheese, herbs, Worcestershire and liquid heat demonstrate the kind of toothsome rustic flavors that have endeared generations of foodies to Italian and southern Louisiana cookery. Rolling boneless, skinless chicken thighs into roulades and slicing them on the bias is a time-honored chef's technique for elegant presentation.

4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 yellow onion, diced

4 celery ribs, diced

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 cup Arborio or other short-grain white rice

1 cup white wine

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese, divided

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, plus 4 whole leaves

3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, divided

1 tablespoon Tabasco

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

4 skinless, boneless chicken thighs

Bring the stock to a simmer in a saucepan. Place 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery. Saute until the onions begin to caramelize, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the rice and saut? for 3 minutes. Add the wine. When all the liquid has been absorbed, ladle 1 cup of the simmering broth into the rice mixture. Bring the risotto to a simmer and stir until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Continue adding broth 1 cup at a time, stirring and keeping the dish at a constant simmer, until rice is creamy yet firm to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the rice from the heat. Add 1 cup Parmesan, 1 tablespoon each chopped basil and thyme, Tabasco and Worcestershire. Season the risotto with salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Salt and pepper the chicken on both sides. Place the thighs on your work surface, smooth side down, and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of basil and thyme. Roll the thighs into cylinders, with the herbs in the interior, and secure with kitchen twine. Place a large skillet over medium heat. Add remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, or enough to coat the entire surface of the skillet. When the oil begins to shimmer, place the thighs in the skillet and brown on all sides. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165 degrees. Remove the thighs from the oven and let rest for 3 minutes. Slice each thigh, on the bias, into 3 pieces. Spoon the risotto into the center of four warm dinner plates and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon Parmesan. Place the 3 slices of the roasted thighs around the risotto and garnish each plate with a leaf of fresh basil.

Per serving: 533 calories (percent of calories from fat, 38), 30 grams protein, 46 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 21 grams fat (6 grams saturated), 43 milligrams cholesterol, 614 milligrams sodium.