[ The Atlanta Journal-Constitution: 12/12/02 ]

IN THE KITCHEN WITH...
CHARLES DUNCAN, 52, ALPHARETTA
Dad's standard of cooking sets up a challenge for son

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Previous In the Kitchen With columns:
CHARLES DUNCAN, ALPHARETTA: eafood Linguine Supreme 12.12.2002
ELEANOR MOYER, ATLANTA: Pork Stew 12.05.2002
RAY WATHEN, DUNWOODY: Braised Lamb Shanks With White Beans 11.25.2002
DAVID WALDROP, SANDY SPRINGS: Sweet & Spicy Guava Ribs Floribbean 11.21.2002
VERNESSA McMILLAN, CONYERS: MeMaw's Poundcake 11.14.2002
DAVID W. EARHART, ATLANTA: Platanos Fritos 10.24.2002
CATALINA SCARSO, DECATUR: Catalina's Ginger Mustard Asparagus Salad 10.17.2002
ERNESTO ESPINOZA, ATLANTA: Ernesto's Shrimp Seviche 10.10.2002
BETH FULGHOM, ATLANTA: Chicken With Black Beans 10.03.2002
KAREN DREXLER, DUNWOODY: Banana Chocolate Chip Muffins 9.26.2002
GLENN SCHICK, ATLANTA: Salmon and Broccolini With Black Bean Sauce 9.19.2002
REGGIE WHITE, SUWANEE: Curry Chicken Soup With Mushrooms 9.12.2002
CARL GIAMETTA, DUNWOODY: Father Orsini's Chicken Marsala 9.05.2002
J. B. "RED" HOLLIDAY, DECATUR: Evelyn Holliday's Five-Flavor Poundcake 8.22.2002
LAURA POWERS HILL, ATLANTA: Mediterranean Shrimp 8.15.2002
KAREN CLYDESDALE, MARIETTA: Grilled Lobster With Asian Dipping Sauce and Drawn Butter 8.08.2002
MIKE BIONDO, ATLANTA: Chicken Enchilada Dip 8.01.2002
CHARLOTTE ROSS STOBIERSKI, Dunwoody: Charlotte's Mincemeat Pork Chops 7.25.2002
FRANK DIPRIMA, Acworth: Insalata di Frutti di Mare 7.18.2002
JULIE BRANDAU, Snellville: Crisp German Meatballs 7.11.2002
MADELYN BRYANS, Newborn: Cheese Squash Casserole 7.04.2002
CHARLES BLACK, Atlanta: Charles' Seafood Linguine 6.27.2002
BOB SANFELIPPO, Marietta: Chocolate-Pecan Biscotti 6.13.2002
CATHERINE CASWELL, Cartersville: Beef Tenderloin Deluxe 6.06.2002

Nominated by Curtis Duncan:

"Being away at college and indulging in cafeteria food has made me appreciate my dad's cooking on a far greater level than ever before. My father is not only a masterful cook but a connoisseur of food. He is very detailed and gets into a zone when he is cooking. His magnificent food reflects his creative genius and attention to detail. He has an eye for good cuts of meat of any kind.

"The art of cooking runs on my dad's side of family, with the tradition of men assuming some or all of the cooking. My father does not just cook to feed us, but he has a passion for cooking and it is relevant in how the food he makes tastes. Instead of using large amounts of butter and salt to flavor foods, he knows how to use herbs and spices, garlic, olive oil and paprika to produce a tasty dish.

"I have included as one of my goals in life to be just as good or a better chef than my father. So far, I am novice to his master. His best advice to me so far is that cooking 'takes time and patience,' which is advice I intend to take regarding just about anything."



Attending sporting events, helping with homework and going on family vacations are all ways that parents bond with their kids. Charles Duncan has done all of that with his son, Curtis. It wasnÕt until Curtis, 19 and a marketing major at Hampton University in Hampton, Va., went off to college that he realized his fatherÕs cooking talent was another enduring bond.

-- Family/background: "I was born and raised in Willow Grove, a suburb outside of Philadelphia. My father was a home builder and my mother was a homemaker as well as a nurse. I was third to the youngest among four brothers and four sisters. My mom and dad took turns cooking. My father was just as good a cook as my mother was."

-- Career: "I have worked for the railroad for 30 years and am presently employed as a signal engineer for Norfolk Southern Railroad. I transferred to Atlanta from Philadelphia three years ago."

-- Hobbies, interests: "I enjoy exercising, listening to jazz music, attending concerts and watching and attending professional sports games and art."

-- Who taught you to cook? "I am a self-taught cook. I must admit that most of my family members are extremely good cooks. For family events, we all have our special dishes that we enjoy cooking. My dish at family reunions is collard greens."

-- How did your love of cooking develop? "When I was younger, I started out trying to impress the ladies. Women like men that can cook. I am sure that it has been instrumental in my marriage of 22 years to my wife, Pam. The more I experimented, the better I became. I have always enjoyed eating good foods and I was always fascinated on how they were created. I also find cooking to be extremely relaxing."

-- Culinary roots: "Both my mother and father were extremely good cooks. My dad was from Georgia and came from a family of 14 brothers and sisters. If you can recall that movie 'Soul Food,' that is a movie that I can definitely relate to."

-- Cooking style: "I enjoy soul food cooking with a little bit of everything in between. I've prepared everything from Italian to Oriental dishes."

-- Who or what is your kitchen inspiration? "My parents, grandparents and older sisters and brothers were my mentors. I can relate on how good their dishes were. Now I guess it's my turn."

-- Who do you cook for? "I cook for my family and friends, most especially my wife and my son, Curtis, who is my biggest critic. He never hesitates to compliment you when it is good and will criticize if it is something that he does not like."

-- What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "I derive a great deal of pleasure in watching people enjoy my food. And also a compliment or two is good for my ego."

-- Specialties: "Collard greens, baking pies, cookies and cakes, lasagna and my linguine dishes."

-- Culinary achievements: "I have several dishes which I am extremely proud of. I made collard greens for a potluck Christmas party last year. One of the ladies excused herself and proceeded to drink the collard green juice left on the plate."

-- Culinary ambitions: "I would love to own and operate a restaurant -- which is probably a lot more work than I can imagine."

-- Memorable flop: "Baking a cake that didn't rise and also not using the correct noodles for a linguine dish that I was preparing. It still tasted OK, but I am a perfectionist. I like things to be just so. If you are going to do something, do it right."

-- Most memorable meal you've prepared: "My family and I went to my mother-in-law's home one year for Thanksgiving dinner. My mother-in-law had the flu and was ordered to bed, and I prepared the Thanksgiving meal. It was unexpected but turned out great."

-- Do you favor a particular ingredient? "I like ingredients that are fresh and wholesome, especially my vegetables. My family is extremely spoiled and does not take kindly to canned foods. I like teriyaki."

-- What's the magic ingredient that makes some cooks turn out great food? "The magic ingredients for me are time, patience and love for the art of cooking."

-- How do you feel about recipes? "A recipe gives a solid starting point. After that, I enjoy being creative and adding a dab of this and a dab of that."

-- When I eat out, I like to order: "Seafood entrees."

-- If you could prepare a fantasy meal for anybody, who would it be and what would you cook? "It would be for my wife and son, and I believe that I have already created their fantasy meal, which is broiled lobster tail, a baked potato and collard greens followed by a nice slice of homemade poundcake. What a combination, but they love it nonetheless."

-- Betty Parham



MAIN DISH

Seafood Linguine Supreme

Makes 8 servings

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

"This is a great recipe to serve to guests," Charles Duncan says. "It's always a hit."

1 pound linguine

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

3/4 cup chopped green bell pepper

3/4 cup chopped red bell pepper

1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) butter

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon dried basil

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 can minced clams

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

8 ounces cooked crab meat

1/4 cup chopped parsley

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 cups grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Prepare linguine according to package directions.

Meanwhile, in a wok or large skillet over medium heat, add oil. Saute the onion, garlic, green pepper and red pepper for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the butter, broth, lemon juice, basil, oregano and bring to a boil, stirring to combine. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add clams, shrimp, crab meat and parsley and cook until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the linguine gradually, tossing to mix together. Add the soy sauce, and toss to combine. Top with grated Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 515 calories (percent of calories from fat, 31), 38 grams protein, 49 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 18 grams fat, 149 milligrams cholesterol, 1,137 milligrams sodium.

Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.

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