Nominated by Donna Smith: "We, the Nutlets [a pre-'Ya-Ya' girlfriends group of 20-plus years], would like to recommend to you the culinary genius among us, Brenda Smith, who is the most thoughtful, gifted and versatile cook we know. She is equally comfortable cooking an authentic Southern comfort food menu, barbecuing from the grill (with her own homemade barbecue sauce), or creating a gourmet delight of sesame seared ahi tuna or beef tenderloin with blue cheese horseradish sauce for her guests.

"One of Brenda's great joys in life is throwing dinner parties for her friends. We 'normal' cooks recognize the difference between those of us who barely manage a few decent meals for our families and someone like Brenda, who uses her culinary talents to lovingly and joyfully gift the special people in her life. Our group especially looks forward to our individual birthday dinners because we get to choose any menu we want and Brenda is delighted to honor our requests.

"Are we five lucky ducks or what?"

It would be easy to envy Brenda Smith's friends. Oh, to be on the receiving end of her culinary talents, humor, generosity and charm.

Family/background: "I grew up the oldest of five children in a small town in South Georgia [Reidsville, home of Georgia State Prison]. I left for UGA in 1966 and still go back to Reidsville to visit my parents and one of my brothers. I graduated with a B.A. [degree] in sociology and wanted to save the world. After graduation, I worked in Atlanta at Grady Hospital and decided I couldn't save the world, so I went back to UGA for a master's degree in counseling. Later, I went to work for Southern Bell [later BellSouth]. I retired 5 1/2 years ago with 25 years' service and opened Mainstreet Art Co., a fun and funky art, jewelry and gift store in downtown Alpharetta, with my best friend from college, Donna Smith. I'm single, with no children and no pets."

Hobbies: "I love to play golf, go to movies, read books, spend time at the beach in Seagrove Beach, Fla., and I love to cook."

Who taught you to cook? "My mother. I watched her cook for all of us growing up, and she seemed to do it so effortlessly. She's a great Southern cook. After college when I lived on my own is when I started to cook and to experiment in the kitchen. In my 40s, I really began to branch out and to enjoy cooking even more."

How did your love of cooking develop? "Watching my mother and both of my grandmothers. They all loved to cook for their families and would cook a full meal for anyone who showed up, no matter what time of day or night."

Culinary roots: "South Georgia farm cooking."

Cooking style: "Eclectic, I'd say. Because I love cooking Southern comfort food or grilling or fixing seafood or Italian or any number of other things."

Early food memory: "Fish fries and oyster roasts at [the farm of] one of my grandparents, as well as fresh vegetables and fried chicken, and crab boils and sour cream poundcake at my other grandparent's house."

• For whom do you cook? "Friends, mostly. None of my family lives here."

What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "Watching the people I cook for really enjoy the food."

Specialties: "Chicken piccata, fried shrimp, coconut cream pie, beef tenderloin with blue cheese sauce, barbecue ribs and sauce, seared tuna with wasabi, tomato basil soup and sour cream muffins."

Culinary achievements: "None formally. Informally, my friends keep coming back for more!"

Culinary ambition: "I'd love to take cooking lessons in France or Italy."

Favorite thing to eat? "Fresh seafood at the beach or perfectly cooked lamb."

Culinary pet peeve: "Tasteless, bland food. What's the point?"

Memorable flop: "Thank goodness, I can't remember one!"

Most memorable meal? "Maybe Thanksgiving for my whole family [parents, siblings and some interloper friends] about eight years ago; or maybe it's the exact same meal that I've fixed on the first Monday in December for the 'Nutlets' for the past 20-plus years!"

Do you favor a particular ingredient? "Several: garlic, capers, lemon juice, olive oil, rosemary."

Best thing about your kitchen: "I'm not real sure yet, since I've only been in it about a month, but probably the roominess and the double ovens."

Do you have a tip for today's cooks? "Proper seasoning is absolutely essential. Also, experiment and learn to enjoy it, even if you don't do it often."

Entertaining tips: "Prepare ahead, insofar as possible. Have plenty of food and drink and, above all, enjoy your guests."

Favorite cookbook: " 'The Reidsville Methodist Cookbook,' 'Atlanta CookNotes,' and 'Joy of Cooking.' "

Favorite chef: "My sister, Linda Jerkins. On TV, I enjoy Rachael Ray and Alton Brown on the Food Network."

When I eat out, I like to order: "Sushi for appetizer and lamb for entree."

If you could prepare a fantasy meal for anybody, who would it be and what would you cook? "My two deceased grandmothers and my parents, who are alive, so all of them could see that I turned out OK. I'd also like for Katharine Hepburn to be there, as well, since I think the conversation would be fascinating. I'd also have several other friends as spectators. I'd probably cook a tasty Southern meal with a few surprises."

-- Betty Parham

MAIN DISH

Chicken Piccata

Makes 6 servings

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Smith likes to serve the dish with pasta.

6 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, pounded to 1/2-inch thickness

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Paprika to taste

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 cup white wine or sherry

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup capers

Sprinkle chicken with salt, pepper and paprika. Dredge in flour, shaking off excess.

In a large skillet, over medium-high heat, melt butter with olive oil until bubbling slightly. Sauté chicken for 3 to 5 minutes per side, or until golden. Remove to a plate and set aside.

Discard excess oil, keeping the drippings in the pan. Return to heat and stir in wine, lemon juice and capers. Cook until slightly thickened. Return chicken to pan to rewarm and coat with sauce.

Per serving: 287 calories (percent of calories from fat, 46), 27 grams protein, 9 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 14 grams fat, 86 milligrams cholesterol, 400 milligrams sodium.

Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.