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[ The Atlanta Journal-Constitution: 11/24/03 ]

IN THE KITCHEN WITH...

ANDRE JONES, 36, ATLANTA
Kicking creativity up a notch

Related:
More on food, including recipes and columnists

Previous In the Kitchen With columns:
Andre Jones, Atlanta: Szechuan Shrimp With Chili Sauce 11.20.2003
Sandra Williams, Marietta: Sandra Williams' $18,000 Chicken 11.20.2003
Dr. Michael K. Shrout, Augusta: Chocolate dream truffle torte 11.13.2003
Sheila Deshpande, Atlanta: Chicken with mint 10.23.2003
Carol Barber, Dallas: Mama's Poundcake 10.16.2003
Peggy Schuster, Dunwoody: Cold Zucchini Soup 10.09.2003
Tom Payne, Sandy Springs: Tom Payne's Pot Roast 10.02.2003
Christine Cochran and Katy Purwin, Alpharetta: Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Salad 09.25.2003
Christine Cochran and Katy Purwin, Alpharetta: Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Salad 09.25.2003
Elsa Torres, Smyrna: Cataplana Portuguese Seafood Stew 09.18.2003
Nadia Murray, Oxford: Cinnamon Rolls 09.11.2003
Emanuel ("Manny") Loiacono, Roswell: Chicken Francese 09.04.2003
Lucille Wright, Douglasville: Egg Custard Pie 08.28.2003
Jack Newhard, Decatur: Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Potpie 08.21.2003
Denny Wilmot, Stone Mountain: Jamaican Jerk Chicken 08.07.2003
Kenny Street, Haralson: Kenny's Pasta Salad 07.31.2003
Jo Pell Holbrook, Lilburn: Zesty Carrots 07.24.2003
Jared Ripps, Atlanta: Lamb Rogan Josh 07.17.2003
Linda Hamrick Levy, Atlanta: Tomato Pie 07.10.2003
Joe Sergio, Hartwell: Cocktail Party Antipasto 07.03.2003
Sarah Cowan, Stockbridge: Cowan Family Squash Casserole 06.26.2003
Chris McGowen, Atlanta: Prosciutto Wrapped Scallops and Shrimp with Vinaigrette Dipping Sauce 06.19.2003
Milton Cloutier, Duluth: New Orleans Bar-B-Que Shrimp 06.12.2003
Lucas Els, Duluth: Apple Pie and Cinnamon Ice Cream 06.05.2003
Patti Crenshaw, Atlanta: Pantry Lasagna 05.29.2003
Doris Wallace, Stockbridge: Vidalia Onion Sausage Casserole 05.22.2003
Van Tucker, Stone Mountain: Van's Brunswick Stew 05.15.2003
Todd Travis, Cumming: Crabmeat Stuffed Mushrooms 05.08.2003
Katie Malkin, Roswell: Meringues 05.01.2003
Susan Riser, Dunwoody: Clafouti With Black Cherries 04.24.2003
Linda Armenti, Roswell: Escarole and Bean Soup 04.17.2003
Bruce Weiss, Acworth: Yankee Pot Roast 04.10.2003
Pat Harley, Roswell: Hodgepodge Soup and Marie's Corn Bread 04.03.2003
Gina SIdes, Alpharetta: Hot Chicken Cheese Dip 03.27.2003
Tom David, Marietta: Chicken Piccata 03.20.2003
Mabel Black, Atlanta: Potato Cake With Black Walnuts 03.13.2003
Max Howell, Dunwoody: Southern Caviar 03.06.2003
Ben Bailey, Dunwoody: Shrimp Etouffee 02.27.2003
Susan Goldman, Alpharetta: Baked Salmon Fillets with Mustard-Chive Butter 02.20.2003
Rick and Sue Thaxton, Acworth: Shrimp in Puff Pastry With Mushroom Garlic Cream Sauce 02.13.2003
Mitch McGill, Dunwoody: Mitch's Chicken Thighs and Couscous 02.06.2003
Michael Gurin, Alpharetta: Cinnamon-Apple Cake 01.30.2003
Don Wyrick, Marietta: Mexican Meatball Soup with Rice and Cilantro 01.23.2003
Gigi Brandon, Atlanta: Southern Fried Corn 01.16.2003
Sally Wissel, Atlanta: Carbonnade de Boeuf 01.09.2003
Dorothy Megarry, Roswell: Byerly's Wild Rice Soup ˆ la Ginny 01.02.2003


2002 Archive:
More of 'In the Kitchen With...'

Nominated by Ursula Brown:

"Looking back on it, I can say that it was my boyfriend Andre's cooking that won me over.

"For our third date he sent me a wonderful invitation for dinner at his home. The entree was a smoked pork tenderloin with a hoisin glaze that was unforgettable.

"Andre's passion for cooking has inspired me as well. He thrives on using fresh ingredients and 'rock-solid food science' for all his cooking. Some of our best dates have involved going to food markets to introduce me to different herbs, spices and food products.

"Andre likes to take recipes and make them his own, which he does with excellent results. Although Andre still does the majority of the cooking for me and friends that come by, we have started to cook together, which has been a lot of fun. He is also a wonderful teacher. "

The creativity, daring, expertise, scholarship and enthusiasm that Andre Jones brings to the table are, at the least, professional; then add a healthy dollop of personal charm. We'd advise Emeril and Alton to keep their eyes on Andre and hope he stays in the insurance business.

-- Family/background: "I was raised in Colorado Springs. I graduated from Colorado State University. My dad is retired Air Force, and my mom was a housewife. I have two younger sisters, one working on her Ph.D. and the other in the medical field. Most of my family is still in Colorado."

-- Career: "I'm an appraiser for an insurance company."

-- Hobbies, interests: "In-line skating, racquetball and, of course, cooking. "

-- Who taught you to cook? "For the most part, I am self-taught. I've read a lot of cookbooks and watched a lot of cooking shows. I've also picked up a lot of tips from the people I've come across over the course of my life. Almost everyone has at least one dish they cook well, and I get new ideas from them every day."

-- How did your love of cooking develop? "I would say it started with my mom and dad. My family was big on Asian food. Since my dad was in the military and spent time in the Philippines and Thailand, he fell in love with the cuisine and brought that passion home. When we went out to eat, it was always Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Korean, etc. When we cooked at home, it was sukiyaki, lumpia (Filipino egg rolls), somen, stir-fry. It's still pretty much the same way now."

-- Culinary roots: "My early adulthood was spent almost entirely being employed in restaurants. I've worked just about every position in a restaurant, from dishwasher to manager. I've also worked in different styles, including but not limited to Mexican, soul food, barbecue joints and five-star cutting-edge cuisine. There was something to be learned at each stop along the way."

-- Cooking style: "Fusion. It's an overused word, but it is what describes me best. I am constantly trying to blend Asian, Italian, Mexican, Cajun, Southern, Indian, etc., in new ways. For example, blackened fish tacos or sushi rolls filled with tangerine glazed fried banana. It sounds weird, but people I've served it to love it."

-- Early food memory: "A grilled cheese sandwich. I was still in elementary school and I had decided I wanted a snack. I heated the stovetop, buttered the bread and successfully cooked my sandwich. I took the pan off the burner and moved it to a different burner that had not been on. To my surprise the sandwich kept cooking -- at that age I did not grasp the concept that pans hold heat. I kept moving the pan to different burners, but the food kept cooking. I moved the pan so many times that eventually I forgot which burner I actually had turned on. My solution to that problem was to touch each burner with my hand to find the hot one. It was some time before my fingerprints returned."

-- For whom do you cook? "Friends and family. There is a group of people in my condo who have figured out that I can cook. I find myself whipping up something for them all the time."

-- What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "I enjoy all my friends coming over and enjoying the meal. I also love seeing their faces light up when the meal is especially delicious. I also enjoy hearing why they did not like something so that I do not make that for them again."

-- Specialties: "Barbecue ribs, fajitas, egg rolls, lasagna, won ton soup."

-- Culinary ambitions: "I have always wanted to take cooking classes. I would love to open and/or work in a restaurant on the side as well. You learn a lot in that environment. The equipment you get to work with is a lot better, too."

-- What is your favorite thing to cook? "Bacon and breakfast sausage. There is no greater smell on earth."

-- What is your favorite thing to eat? "Chocolate chip cookies. I often wish I had never learned to make those."

-- Culinary pet peeve: "People who don't come eat when the food is ready. It is upsetting when I expend a lot of energy and time preparing a meal and no one has a sense of urgency to eat. Food to me has a life span, and in many cases it is very, very short. I just want my guests to eat my food when it is at its best. Nothing is worse than 'dead' food."

-- Memorable flop: "I was looking for a new way to cook corn. I cut the corn off the cob, sautéed it in a pan and mixed in butter, dried papaya and pomegranate molasses. I'm sure most of the people reading this are now asking why I was surprised this was a flop. The funny thing is, the first time I made this dish, it was really good. However, the second time it was so bad that I'm completely afraid to ever try again."

-- Do you favor a particular ingredient? "Ginger and rice wine vinegar."

-- Best thing about your kitchen: "It is wide open. My last house was very cramped, with dark cabinets. It did not make me want to spend any time in the kitchen."

-- What's the magic ingredient that makes some cooks turn out great food? "Perseverance. Very few dishes turn out great the first time."

-- Entertaining tips: "Never make a dish [for company] for the first time. Either have made it in the past or make it the day before so you can work out the bugs."

-- Favorite cookbook: "The Internet. The answer is at your fingertips."

--  Favorite chef: "Alton Brown. If you are interested in the how, what and why of food, nothing beats his Food Network show 'Good Eats.' Rock-solid food science. That man walks on water as far as I'm concerned."

-- If you could prepare a fantasy meal for anybody, who would it be and what would you cook? "I've never served in the military, but I think I would choose to cook for all the veterans. I try to never underestimate that I live in this country, and the freedoms I enjoy. It would be an honor to cook for those entrusted with my freedom. It would be a 'universal' meal that hopefully appealed to most tastes, like pan-seared ribeye or halibut, mashed potatoes and fresh seasonal vegetables. On each plate would be a simple card that read, 'Thank you.'"

-- Betty Parham


MAIN DISH

Szechuan Shrimp With Chili Sauce

Makes 3 servings Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes

All the ingredients are available at Asian grocery stores. Serve with rice.

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined and butterflied

4 teaspoons salt (divided use)

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons chili sauce

2 teaspoons rice wine

1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon chile paste with garlic

1/2 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon peanut oil

1/2 teaspoon hot chile oil

1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar

Peanut or vegetable oil

2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger root

3 tablespoons finely minced garlic

4 scallions, finely sliced

3 dried red chiles

In a bowl or colander, sprinkle shrimp with 1 teaspoon salt. Set aside for 1/2 hour.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine hoisin sauce, chili sauce, rice wine, soy sauce, fish sauce, chile paste, sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon peanut oil, hot chile oil and sugar.

When the shrimp are ready, thoroughly wash off salt with cold water. Add another teaspoon salt to shrimp and let sit 30 seconds; wash off the salt. Repeat this procedure twice more. The final time, drain well but let some water cling to the shrimp.

In a wok or deep skillet, heat two inches of peanut oil to 375 degrees.

Carefully immerse half the shrimp in the hot oil (watch out -- oil can bubble up when shrimp are first added), and cook until just past translucent, about 20 seconds. Remove to a plate and set aside. Add the rest of the shrimp. The oil will not be as hot, so this portion may need 30 seconds to finish cooking. Remove to the plate and set aside.

Drain all but 2 tablespoons oil from the wok. Over very high heat, stir-fry the ginger, garlic, scallions and dried chiles for 1 minute. Add the reserved shrimp and toss, add sauce to coat shrimp and serve.

Per serving: 244 calories (percent of calories from fat, 23), 32 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 6 grams fat, 231 milligrams cholesterol, 837 milligrams sodium.



Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.

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