Nominated by Alok Deshpande: "The start of college is always a time to look back upon home-cooked food with a newfound appreciation. As I began to reflect on the scope of my mother's accomplishments in the kitchen, it became apparent what an extraordinary cook she is.

"My mother has an extensive repertoire of Indian cooking that draws from all the various regions of India. From the spicy curries, dals [seasoned lentils] and vegetables of northern India to the fried dosas, idlies and sambals of south India, she has prepared them all with confidence and authenticity. What truly amazes me about my mother's cooking is her versatility. I can remember that as kids, my two sisters and I were notoriously picky eaters. Before she could coax us into trying the adventurous dishes she likes the most to cook, she would often double-cook dinners -- delicious but simple pasta for the kids and perhaps a shrimp curry with coconut for my dad and her. Other nights she would take us to the farthest corners of the globe with Chinese stir-fry with bok choy or marinated tofu dishes. As for the recipes, she melds newspaper clippings, recipe books or recipes from friends with her considerable inventiveness. When I took to the kitchen, like most starting cooks, I clung to recipes as a lifeline. On the other hand, my mother is fearless.

"Also fundamental is her commitment to healthy eating. After my dad wanted a heart-healthy diet, she adapted her cooking accordingly. She finds ways to keep food flavorful and moist and very low in fat. The result is her own brand of cooking that reflects the classic flavors of Indian cooking while embracing the wide variety of American or other ethnic ingredients available in metro farmers markets."

For Alok Deshpande, mom's home cooking means curries, dals, sambals, kutche pohay and dosas -- all specialties of his mom Sheila's kitchen. And all are foods he has found a new appreciation for since he left for college.

Family/background: "I grew up in Calcutta, India, with three sisters and my parents. I came here as a student 25 years ago. My parents still live in India and I visit them often. I got married to Rajiv Deshpande, whom I met at my engineering college in India. We've lived in Houston, Detroit, Los Angeles, and finally Atlanta. I have three kids: One just joined Stanford University and the other two attend the Westminster Schools. My husband has his own technology business."

Career: "I received a degree in chemical engineering from the Indian Institute of Technology at Kharagpur and pursued a master's degree in the United States. I worked for seven years after graduating, but after some time I quit trying to juggle a career and child-raising. I have been home for 10 years but hope to pick up on my career as soon as the youngest is more independent."

Hobbies: "I enjoy traveling, hiking and working out. I also read, watch movies and listen to music. Shopping and entertaining are among the other fun activities for me."

Who taught you to cook? "Nobody really. As a child, I watched my mother cook all the time but never had the inclination to try it. Later on, starting from my first day in the dorm kitchen when I arrived here from India, I tried experimenting with different recipes. I grew up with the concept that meals have to be freshly cooked at home each day. We had no frozen dinners or canned/prepared food growing up. It is natural for me to cook all our meals at home. Initially I asked family members for recipes, but then I turned to friends, cookbooks and magazines for culinary advice."

How did your love of cooking develop? "I just grew into it. I love different types of food and have always been curious about how they're made. These days it seems like the ingredients for all types of cuisines are so easily available that it's easy to try out new dishes. My sisters and I are constantly exchanging recipes over the phone, especially when one of us has a successful hit with a dish."

Culinary roots: "Home cooking has always been an integral part of our family experience. Every religious ceremony involves some kind of special foods. I grew up mostly a vegetarian; however, over the years I have learned to eat all kinds of non-vegetarian dishes. Indian cuisine is very different in different provinces. I was raised in Bengal [in the eastern region] whereas my parents are from Maharashtra [in the western region]. As a result, my mother would try out Bengali, north Indian, south Indian dishes -- something she might not have tried had we lived in Maharashtra. We also lived in England for a few years, which helped me cultivate a diverse palate. Rajiv, my husband, has a similar background so we both experiment a lot with food."

Cooking style: "I tend to make more Indian dishes. Over the years, however, I have learned to enjoy Chinese, Italian, Malaysian, Thai and all-American food. Generally I tend to try out or modify recipes that are low fat and healthy. My style is still spicy, adventurous and exotic."

Early food memory: "I remember Diwali [Festival of Lights] very well as a time when my mother would be busy making all the Diwali treats for the five-day festivity. She had these huge storage bins full of Indian snacks and sweets that we would send to all our friends and neighbors and enjoy with the steady stream of visitors."

For whom do you cook? "Mostly for friends and family. We tend to eat most meals at home. My kids enjoy eating at 'Sheila's Kitchen.' They have a hectic schedule and rarely have time to eat out. They would rather read and eat in a casual atmosphere at home."

What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "I enjoy good food and love variety. There is tremendous satisfaction in providing the family with healthy, nutritious and tasty food."

Culinary achievements: "Quite often I entertain at home and might cook for 30-40 people. I think my forte is the speed at which I can put together a meal. I can easily make a four-course meal for five people in an hour."

Culinary ambitions: "I hope to pass on some of these skills to my children."

Favorite thing to cook: "Lately it's been different types of vegetables. I love trying out different stir-fries."

Favorite thing to eat: "I am really fond of all types of food. However, I do enjoy a nice Indian curry at least once a week. I also love having a special Maharashtrian snack called kutche pohay, which is made from stamped rice. It needs a special spice mix that even today my mother makes for me in Calcutta. She'll make a big batch and send it to me and my sisters [that] we store in the freezer. My entire family enjoys this specialty on a Sunday afternoon. I don't step on the scale the next morning!"

Culinary pet peeve: "All the kids asking for something different to eat. Also accommodating them because they still will not try certain fish and some vegetables."

Memorable flop: "Very rarely do I mess up so bad that I have to toss the entire dish. Most often I can salvage a dish. I never try anything new when I have company."

Do you favor a particular ingredient: "I would have to say garlic."

Best thing about your kitchen: "I have a huge collection of cookware, both from the United States and from India. If we ever build a new home, my kitchen would be the largest room in the house."

What is your magic ingredient? "Enthusiasm and love for food. Cooking can sometimes be time-consuming, but if you love good food, you'll enjoy the process and create great results."

Do you have a tip for today's cooks? "Try out simple recipes. Sometimes they make just as tasty foods as some of the elaborate ones."

Favorite cookbook: "I have used Madhur Jaffrey's Indian cookbook a lot ['Madhur Jaffrey's Indian Cooking' (Barron's, $16.95]."

Fantasy meal: "I would invite my entire extended family from across the globe together in Atlanta for a big celebration and feast."

-- Betty Parham

MAIN DISH

Chicken With Mint

Makes 6 servings

Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 2 to 4 hours marinating

Cooking time: 20-25 minutes

Sheila Deshpande describes this as "an authentic Indian dish very popular in north India." Marinating the chicken in this yogurt dip adds lots of flavor in addition to tenderizing the chicken. Take care to discard whole spices when eating the dish. To substitute for cardamom pods, you can add 1/2 teaspoon of powdered cardamom to the yogurt mixture.

5 tablespoons plain yogurt

4 cloves garlic

1 (1-inch) square fresh ginger, peeled

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into

1 inch squares

3 tablespoons oil

4 black cardamom pods or 6 green pods

8 peppercorns

6 whole cloves

2 cinnamon sticks

2 teaspoons dried mint

In a food processor or blender, process yogurt, garlic, ginger and onion until blended. Add salt and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl or plastic zipper bag and add chicken. Stir to combine. Marinate for 2 to 4 hours in the refrigerator.

In a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat, add oil. When hot, add cardamom pods, peppercorns, cloves and cinnamon sticks. Cook for 2-3 minutes, until aromatic and spices begin to brown, stirring occasionally (use caution, cloves can pop). Increase the heat to high. Add the chicken and its marinade and stir-fry for 5 to 10 minutes. Lower the heat and cook until chicken is browned and cooked through. Add mint and saute for 1 minute.

Per serving: 246 calories (percent of calories from fat, 34), 36 grams protein, 3 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 9 grams fat, 89 milligrams cholesterol, 422 milligrams sodium.

Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.