IN THE KITCHEN WITH...
J. B. "RED" HOLLIDAY, 89, DECATUR
Circumstances nudge an interest in cooking
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Nominated by Mary Grace Garrett:
"J.B. 'Red' Holliday will be 90 years old in October and has, with the support of his daughter, lived alone since the death of his wife. His wife, Evelyn, was an excellent cook and would be surprised to know he has mastered and, do we dare say, "improved" many of her recipes.
"He has overcome many health problems: two heart attacks, a quadruple bypass and bladder cancer. Throughout these adversities he keeps the playful gleam in his eye, a smile on his face and a giving spirit to family, friends, church and community.
Red's recipes are as traditionally Southern as he is -- ranging from Southern fried chicken to mouthwatering divinity, scrumptious poundcake and wonderful cheese straws."
When Red Holliday's wife died, nobody in the family thought Red would last a month. "Before she died, even my mother said she didn't think he would [last] either," said Red's daughter, Maryanne Bennett.
This assessment of Red's chances of survival may not have been so far off the mark, considering the degree of loving care he had received for 64 years from his beloved Evelyn.
After she was diagnosed with a terminal illness, Evelyn tried to prepare him for life alone. She'd sit Red down at the kitchen table, lay out the ingredients to some of his favorite recipes and explain how to make them.
After she died in January 2001, Red managed to get through the first few months with the support of his daughter. One day he went into the kitchen and started to experiment with some of the dishes Evelyn had told him about.
And at 88, Red discovered he had a talent and love for cooking. He hasn't stopped cooking since.
Family/background: "I was born in Washington, Ga., in 1912. My mother passed away when I was very young, so my brother and one sister and I were all sent to Berry School in Rome. My youngest sister was only 2 or 3, so she went to live with an aunt. After Berry, I came to Atlanta to work and met my wife of 64 years."
Career: "Sales engineer with Goulds Pumps Inc. for 35 years."
Hobbies, interests: "I used to play golf, but gave my clubs away to our church pastor, so I don't play anymore. I really enjoy all sports: baseball, football and golf, but I'm limited to watching these on TV. I'm an avid Braves and Falcons fan and always know the schedule on TV for all the games. If I won't be home for a game I'll tape it."
Who taught you to cook? "My wife, Evelyn. I learned whatever I know from her. She was the real cook of the family. Most of the time, she would get out all the ingredients and I would just mix them up. After she passed away, I started making things for the people she liked to cook for."
Early food memory: "Growing up at Berry School, it was an agricultural school and I worked in the kitchen most of the time, but the food all came from the farm and was cooked in large pots on an old-fashioned stove for all the kids there. As I remember, it was farm-grown vegetables and biscuits. I still love homemade biscuits with lots of butter and jelly."
Culinary roots: "None, just necessity."
Cooking style: "I don't have any style. It just turns out to be homemade, handmade, homestyle cooking that I enjoy doing for people."
Specialties: "Five-Flavor Poundcake, Divinity, Southern Cheese Straws, Southern Fried Chicken Dipped in Buttermilk and at holiday time, Ambrosia."
For whom do you cook? "I don't prepare many complete meals for anybody now, just the special things. I cook for my friends that I walk with at the mall several times a week, my wife's beauty shop people, my barber and friend, my daughter's office, my dry cleaners, the ladies at the two banks I frequent, and, of course, my family."
What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "I enjoy fixing these things for the people who have been kind and considerate to me over the last few years. I enjoy getting out of the house to deliver it and visit with them and the chit-chat we have."
Culinary ambitions: "At almost 90, I don't have any ambitions, except to wake up the next morning and see the day beginning."
My favorite thing to cook: Southern Cheese Straws.
My favorite thing to eat: "Steak. When I eat out I always order steak."
Favorite cookbook: "I don't have a favorite cookbook. My wife had many that she used over the years, but my best recipes come from friends and family. Those are always the best, because there are lots of good cooks out there, and if they give it to you, you know it has to be good. My cheese straw recipe came from a cousin in Washington, Ga., but I had to promise never to give it to anyone."
Do you have a tip for today's cooks? "Don't give up. I was 88 when I really got into the swing of cooking on my own. So just be patient and keep going no matter what."
-- Betty Parham
DESSERT
Evelyn Holliday's Five-Flavor Poundcake
Makes 16 servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 10 minutes to cool
Cooking time: 1 hour and 20-30 minutes
P> For the cake:3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (2 sticks) margarine or butter, softened
1/2 cup of Crisco
3 cups granulated sugar
5 eggs, beaten
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon coconut flavoring
1 teaspoon rum extract
1 teaspoon lemon extract
1 teaspoon butter flavoring
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the glaze:
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon coconut flavoring
1 teaspoon rum extract
1 teaspoon lemon extract
1 teaspoon butter flavoring
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a tube pan or spray with cooking spray. In a bowl, mix flour and baking powder and set aside. With an electric mixer, cream the margarine, Crisco and sugar until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs and beat until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Gradually add flour mixture and milk alternately, beginning and ending with flour. Beat until smooth.
Add coconut flavoring, rum extract, lemon extract, butter flavoring and vanilla extract. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Pour batter into pan, leaving a half inch at the top of the pan (there might be some excess batter). Bake for 1 hour and 20 to 30 minutes, or until a tester inserted in the cake comes out clean. Check after 1 hour to make sure the top is not overbrowning. If necessary, cover the top of the pan with foil. Cool for 10 minutes and invert onto a serving plate.
Meanwhile, prepare the glaze. In saucepan, heat the sugar, water, coconut flavoring, rum extract, lemon extract, butter flavoring and vanilla extract until clear, about 5 minutes. Slowly drizzle over the top of cake, letting the syrup soak into the cake. You might not need all of the glaze.
Per serving: 461 calories (percent of calories from fat, 38), 5 grams protein, 66 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 20 grams fat, 60 milligrams cholesterol, 183 milligrams sodium.
Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.
