[ The Atlanta Journal-Constitution: 8/08/02 ]

IN THE KITCHEN WITH...
KAREN CLYDESDALE, 52, MARIETTA
Accomplished cook has sure sense of what works

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More on food, including recipes and columnists

Previous In the Kitchen With columns:
KAREN CLYDESDALE, MARIETTA: Grilled Lobster With Asian Dipping Sauce and Drawn Butter 8.08.2002
MIKE BIONDO, ATLANTA: Chicken Enchilada Dip 8.01.2002
CHARLOTTE ROSS STOBIERSKI, Dunwoody: Charlotte's Mincemeat Pork Chops 7.25.2002
FRANK DIPRIMA, Acworth: Insalata di Frutti di Mare 7.18.2002
JULIE BRANDAU, Snellville: Crisp German Meatballs 7.11.2002
MADELYN BRYANS, Newborn: Cheese Squash Casserole 7.04.2002
CHARLES BLACK, Atlanta: Charles' Seafood Linguine 6.27.2002
BOB SANFELIPPO, Marietta: Chocolate-Pecan Biscotti 6.13.2002
CATHERINE CASWELL, Cartersville: Beef Tenderloin Deluxe 6.06.2002

Nominated by Kelley McLellan:

"Whether it is a 'light supper' for 50 on the back deck to celebrate a graduation, or an intimate dinner for family for no special reason at all, my Mom never ceases to amaze me. Although the meals are always prepared from scratch, and often quite complicated, she seems to float from the kitchen to the table effortlessly. In fact, whenever you compliment her on a dish, she says, 'It was so easy!'

"Mom loves all aspects of preparing a meal, from planning it to setting a gorgeous table. But it is clear to me that her reason for cooking is the simple satisfaction and delight she derives from it. She has taught my sister and me that cooking is not a task, but an experience to savor and enjoy . . . like all the wonderful foods that come from her kitchen."


From her work as an interior designer, Karen Clydesdale knows that the more she can engage her clients' senses, the happier they will be with the space she creates for them. So it is with those who experience her table. The food is always imaginative, delicious and memorable. But there is also the lively mood she creates: dramatic eye appeal, a pleasing ambience and a little bit of surprise.

Family/background: "I have been married to my husband, Bob, for 30 years. We have three children: Kelley, 27, a newlywed; Devin, 24, an analyst with Lend Lease; and Robby, 20, a student at the University of Denver. We have lived in the Atlanta area for 17 years. My husband is a former Marine officer. Our early years were spent in Hawaii, Japan, Washington, D.C., and New England."

Career: "I am an interior designer. I have my own business, Design Fabrique, in a converted mill house in the historic district of Roswell. My daughter Kelley is also an interior designer and works with me."

Hobbies, interests: "I love to garden and search flea markets and antique stores. I enjoy traveling, reading and running. I am a mentor for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society. Last year I ran my first marathon and half marathon."

Who taught you to cook? "My mom was a great cook, but I grew up in a Boston Irish family. We ate a lot of meat and potatoes! She made the best Thanksgiving dressing, which I still make every year for my family. The food was good and wholesome, but not very creative. I learned cooking skills from watching Food TV, reading Bon Appetit, Gourmet, etc., and trying new recipes."

Culinary roots: "During a trip to Ireland for our anniversary, my husband and I stayed at a great guest house on the coast of Connemara. I ordered the grilled lobster. It was incredible. I realized there was a lot more to Irish cooking than meat and potatoes. Each year I try to host a St. Patrick's Day party so that I can try the recipes from an Irish cookbook I bought during that trip. I never serve corned beef and cabbage at that dinner."

Cooking style: "Traditional American, with French inspiration. I love to include a sauce that complements the food. Style isn't just about the food. I can spend as much time designing table settings as preparing the food. Before anyone even tastes the food, I want them to know how important they are to me."

Who is your inspiration in the kitchen? "I am truly inspired by both my daughters. They hosted a post-Peachtree Road Race brunch, and it was impressive. They are so far ahead of where I was at their age, I can only imagine what they will accomplish in the kitchen."

What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "After planning, organizing and setting the table, I love to put on a favorite CD, pour a glass of wine and start cooking. For me it is no stress and pure relaxation."

Specialties: "Sauces, from bearnaise to espagnole."

Culinary achievements: "Several years ago, a friend and I agreed to do the social events for our swim-tennis club. We did an Oktoberfest and made everything from scratch. Our menu included veal and pork pate, German sour cream soup, weisswurst, bratwurst, caraway cabbage and apples, potato and noodle dumplings, and apple strudel. We served 100 people. The clubhouse was decorated like a German beer hall. People are still telling us how much they enjoyed that meal."

What is your favorite thing to cook? "A romantic dinner for two. Served with candlelight by the fire."

Most memorable meal you ever prepared: "This past Thanksgiving we invited our daughter's new in-laws to join us. We invited them to bring their favorite Southern dishes, and my daughters and I prepared our favorite New England dishes. We had the traditional turkey with lots of trimmings. It was a special dinner shared with special people."

Do you have a tip for today's cooks? "I often tell my clients to buy the best you can afford. The same is true for cooking. If the ingredients are good quality and fresh, you can't go wrong. Of course, investing in good equipment always helps."

-- Betty Parham



MAIN DISH

Grilled Lobster With Asian Dipping Sauce and Drawn Butter

Makes 4 servings

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 10 minutes

"I use this recipe often when I'm entertaining, partly because everything can be done ahead of time. The Asian Dipping Sauce can be made the day before. The lobsters are parboiled in the morning, so just before we sit down, we put them on the grill for 6 to 8 minutes. They make a beautiful presentation, plus they are not as messy as eating steamed or boiled lobster. This is a great dish if you really want to impress."

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/3 cup Asian fish sauce

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

1/3 cup packed brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons Asian chile paste

1/4 cup (packed) chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1/4 cup (packed) chopped fresh mint leaves

1 to 3 tablespoons water

4 (1 1/2-pound) live lobsters

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, for basting

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, for sauce

Juice of 1/4 lemon

Salt and pepper to taste

Lemon and lime halves for garnish

In a bowl, combine garlic, fish sauce, lime juice, brown sugar and chile paste. Add cilantro and mint. Taste and adjust strength with water if necessary.

Bring a very large stockpot or kettle, 3/4 full of water, to a rolling boil. Plunge lobsters headfirst into the water and cook for three minutes. Transfer lobsters to a colander to drain and cool.

Meanwhile, preheat a gas grill at medium setting. When lobster are cool enough to handle, twist off the tails and break off the claws at body of each lobster. Discard the bodies. With kitchen shears or a cleaver, halve the tails (including the shells) lengthwise. Do not remove tail or claw meat from the shells. Place the lobsters, shell side down, directly on grill and brush with melted butter. Cover the claws and tails with aluminum foil.

Grill for 6 minutes or until meat is opaque, basting occasionally with the 2 tablespoons butter. Melt the remaining 8 tablespoons butter and whisk until it emulsifies. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper. Serve lobsters, garnished with lemon and lime halves, with the Asian dipping sauce and melted butter.

Per serving: 325 calories (percent of calories from fat, 42), 37 grams protein, 9 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 15 grams fat, 165 milligrams cholesterol, 1,231 milligrams sodium.



Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.

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