IN THE KITCHEN WITH...
FRANK DIPRIMA, 40, Acworth
Ironworker fortifies meals with intangibles
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Nominated by Peggy Wiemann:
"I am dating the most fantastic chef. I would call him a cook, but that is an understatement. Frank DiPrima is an Italian New Yorker who wows me with the simplest ingredients that he can turn into a beautiful presentation and a delightful eating experience. On our first date, he made homemade crab meat ravioli with pine nuts and grilled a delicious fish. I was hooked.
"I believe the key reason Frank is so special is his passion for food, and his joy in sharing with friends. I've not heard anyone else who can so commandingly, warmly and endearingly offer the directive 'Mangia!'
"What is harder to describe is the love Frank has for good food and the sense of community it can create and foster. Frank gives careful thought to the comfort, enjoyment and pleasure of those who will enjoy his cooking and possesses some instinctive abilities that transcend a learnable skill. That is, perhaps, his most special recipe."
Frank DiPrima is at once a student of food, a teacher and a sort of missionary. Having taken many classes in the United States and Europe, he has delved deeply into the techniques and chemistry that make good food happen, and shares it with others. In addition to putting his knowledge to use in the food he serves, he believes in the intangible results that come about when people sit around a table to share a good meal.
Family/background: "I grew up in an unusually small Italian family on Long Island -- only four kids. We were all well-loved and very close. I came to Atlanta during the Olympics."
Career: "I am a structural ironworker. I've worked on major projects here, including the Olympic stadium, Philips Arena and Lenox Square."
Hobbies, interests: "Playing drums, cooking, wine collecting, reading, concerts and travel. I've been to Italy twice, Brazil, Puerto Rico, all around the United States and Canada."
Who taught you to cook? "I am basically self-taught and forever learning. I've taken many culinary and wine classes in Italy, Napa Valley, the [Art Institute of Atlanta School of Culinary Arts] and other places."
How did your love of cooking develop? "My mother gave me my first task in the kitchen -- making crepes for manicotti. I developed my love of cooking and passion for our Italian culture from her. She would cook for anyone at all hours of the day. I remember coming home late at night and she would be stirring a pot of sauce and then she would hit me with the spoon if I came in too late."
Culinary roots: "Southern Italian. Our roots are in Reggio Calabria and Palermo. The cuisine has a lot of fresh fish, homemade pastas and pizzas. Our meals would always include fruit and nuts. The Sicilians are also big on desserts, which is not typical of the rest of Italy."
Early food memory: "Probably a baby bottle filled with tomato sauce. No, seriously, food was such a large part of our lives that every meal was a blessed occasion. We all ate at the table together, and that built a lasting and valuable foundation in my life."
Cooking style: "Classic preparations with contemporary or nouveau presentations. I want the presentation to be dramatic. I am into building and constructing a plate to make the most of the various tastes and the actual appearance of the food."
For whom do you cook? "My girlfriend, Peggy, has been extremely supportive in my developing culinary career. We have many dinner parties and will gladly feed anyone who shows up hungry. I have also begun cooking for people for special occasions -- business meetings, anniversary dinners, wedding and baby showers -- where I make the presentation and they eat the food, kind of like [the Food Network show] 'Molto Mario.' "
Culinary achievements: "Studying in Italy, which involved preparing meals in a 16th-century palazzo which was a private Renaissance palace, in the historical center in Bologna. I also learned food styling and did menu development for a major pizza chain."
Culinary ambition: "I would love to incorporate cooking, my love of wine, travel and music into a job title. My dream job would be a chef for someone that traveled around the world and wanted their personal chef in attendance. I would be cooking for a select group of people who appreciated good food. I would love to plan menus and wines for different occasions and then shop for fresh, locally grown food. Maybe be a chef on a yacht in Cannes, [France], or in a Swiss chalet in Gstaad for the season, then off to the Italian Riviera. That sounds good. I think I'll try for that!"
Specialties: "I've learned so much in the past 10 years about Italian cuisine that I have branched away from the stereotypes. My specialties range from osso buco from Tuscany to toasted lamb with simple garlic and rosemary."
What is your favorite thing to cook? "Homemade raviolis with various fillings."
What is your favorite thing to eat? "Chicken cutlet Parmesan with ravioli, and gelato for dessert."
Culinary pet peeve: "Improperly seasoned food and unprofessional service."
Most memorable meal you've prepared: "Christmas Eve dinners, which are a feast of different kinds of seafood, pastas and desserts. And then there was the Timpano di Maccheroni I made. This is from the Bologna region. Translated, it means a 'mythic pasta dome.' It was the featured dish in the movie 'Big Night.' "
Do you favor a particular ingredient? "Garlic and truffles (the mushrooms, not the chocolate)."
What is the magic ingredient that makes some cooks turn out great food? "Patience, attention to detail and love for the guests, and you can't fail."
Do you have a tip for today's cooks? "Use the most quality ingredients you can. Cook simply and seasonally."
Favorite cookbook: "Thomas Keller's 'French Laundry Cookbook.' "
How do you feel about recipes? "They are great guidelines, but don't be afraid to experiment."
-- Betty Parham
SALAD
Insalata di Frutti di Mare
Makes 8 servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
1/4 cup olive oil, or more to taste
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
3 cloves garlic, minced
Salt to taste
Pinch red pepper flakes
1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 pounds squid, cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch rings
24 mussels, well-scrubbed and debearded
1/2 cup water or white wine
1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise
3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 head radicchio and 2 cups lettuce leaves, shredded
Lemon wedges
In a large bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice and zest, garlic, salt and red pepper flakes and set aside.
In a pot of boiling, salted water, cook the shrimp for 1 to 2 minutes or until just cooked through. Drain shrimp in a colander. Transfer shrimp to bowl, add dressing and toss to coat. Cook squid in boiling, salted water for about 1 minute or until white. Drain well and add to shrimp. Cook mussels with 1/2 cup water or wine over medium heat in a skillet, until opened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and discard any that are unopened. Remove mussels from their shells and add to other seafood. Add fennel and parsley and toss well. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, olive oil and lemon juice. Place radicchio and lettuce on a platter. Spoon the seafood salad onto the lettuce and garnish with lemon wedges. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to one day.
Per serving: 256 calories (percent of calories from fat, 35), 35 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 10 grams fat, 101 milligrams cholesterol, 283 milligrams sodium.
Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.

