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[ The Atlanta Journal-Constitution: 6/13/02 ]

IN THE KITCHEN WITH...
BOB SANFELIPPO, Marietta
Italian baker inspired by kitchens of his youth

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Nominated by Natalie Sanfelippo:

"I am married to, by far, the best cookie and focaccia baker I have ever known. My husband, Bob, is a truly wonderful and gifted baker. Eleven years ago, on our third date, he made an Italian nut cookie called pipitelli. It was one of the most memorable dates I had ever had, and the best cookie I have ever had to date. I knew he was a keeper at that point.

"He has gone on to perfect his recipes and create new and unique flavor combinations. He often unwinds after a hard day of work by making cookies and different doughs for focaccia and pizzas. We have sampled many cookies, pizzas, focaccia and cannolis from all over the United States, including biscotti brought back from bakeries in Italy, but Bob's recipes have topped most of what we have experienced. He knows how to infuse flavors into his doughs unlike anything I have ever tasted."

The happiness that abounded in the Italian kitchen of his childhood made an indelible impression on Bob Sanfelippo. So did the wonderful food made by his mother, grandmother and aunts. As an adult, he has become a master of Italian dessert delicacies and breads and is passing on to his kids the skills as well as the joys of the kitchen.

  • Family/background: "I come from a big family and was raised in Milwaukee. I graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Madison and moved to Atlanta in the early '80s. I met my wife, Natalie, 12 years ago. We've been married for 10 years and have three beautiful daughters, Katie, Julia and Olivia."

  • Career: "I've had two in Atlanta: I moved here to accept the position of horticulturist for the Atlanta Botanical Garden and stayed in horticulture for 10 years. I developed an interest in computers and later moved into information systems. Last year I joined McKesson MIS [medical information systems], where I am focused on providing imaging solutions for medical records and the business office."

  • Hobbies, interests: "I enjoy spending free time with my wife and daughters. A typical weekend has us playing on the swings, eating out, a little gardening and baking. The girls like to make pancakes from scratch, and I like to involve them in making pizza dough and Italian cookies."

  • Who taught you to cook? "Indirectly, quite a few people, including my aunt, Mom, a brother-in-law who is a great pastry chef, and a few friends."

  • Culinary roots: "We had wonderful bakeries and Italian delis in Milwaukee. After moving to Atlanta, I missed the great ethnic treats I grew up with. I still remember calling my Aunt Lu in Chicago and asking if she could help by sharing a few recipes, which she did. She also gave me a lesson on making biscotti the next time I visited them."

  • Early food memories: "I remember loving the cinnamon sugar crisps my Mom made from apple pie dough. Also, the first time I ever noticed real family cooking I was 3 or 4 while visiting relatives in Chicago. My Italian grandmother and aunts were making fresh ravioli, and having a ball in the kitchen!"

  • Who do you cook for? "My test audience is my wife and girls, a sister who lives nearby, several neighbors and my co-workers. When I hear 'Mmmm,' I know it's time to put the recipe in the family cookbook."

  • What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "I love to take an idea and develop it into a recipe. Sometimes this takes a long time and numerous attempts."

  • Culinary achievements: "About 10 years ago, I was able to indulge an ambition and baked one night a week for my friends who own East 48th Street Italian Deli and Bakery (in Dunwoody). I did this for a couple of years and was able to adapt and update many old family recipes for a larger audience. We had a ball."

  • Culinary ambitions: "I would like to learn how to make frozen custard, and travel Italy with the sole purpose of tasting foods and getting new ideas for recipes."

  • What is your favorite thing to bake? "All sorts of Italian cookies and variations of pizza and focaccia. I'm tied to my roots!"

  • What is your favorite thing to eat?" Italian rice balls (Arancini) with my wife's pasta sauce, some Locatelli Romano, a salad, bread and a good wine."

  • Memorable flop: "A Mexican corn bread recipe I thought up for a meal with neighbors last summer. It was awful."

  • Do you favor a particular ingredient? "Fresh roasted pecans and almonds, fresh basil, olive oil, garlic, good vanilla, butter and orange oil are a must at our house."

  • Do you have a tip for today's cooks? "Since most of us prepare meals every day, it's easy to forget how important the process can be. We spend so much time and effort trying to engage our children in learning activities that we often overlook the simple things, like building a recipe and enjoying the results together. Having kids participate in what is going on in the kitchen is an easy way to give them a sense of accomplishment and confidence in trying new things that will last long after they are grown."

  • If you could spend an afternoon in the kitchen with anybody, who would it be? "My Nana [Italian grandmother] passed away several years ago, but I would love to get her feedback and advice on the recipes worked on from her collection. She was a wonderful person and an amazing baker."

    DESSERT

    Chocolate-Pecan Biscotti

    Makes 30 cookies Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour refrigeration|

    Cooking time: 1 hour

    "This biscotti recipe was derived from an Italian cookie my grandmother called Tutus, which had chocolate, cinnamon, nuts and occasionally some orange flavoring. We always thought it would be good in biscotti form, too; hence, the recipe."

    3 cups all-purpose flour

    1/4 cup cocoa (Sanfelippo likes Jersey cocoa from Williams-Sonoma)

    1/2 teaspoon salt

    1/2 cup (1 stick) and 1 tablespoon butter, softened

    1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

    1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

    2 eggs

    1 egg white

    1 teaspoon vanilla

    1 1/2 ounces ( 1/4 cup) semisweet chocolate, melted

    1 tablespoon whole milk

    1 tablespoon baking powder

    1/4 teaspoon baking soda

    1/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

    1 1/4 cups pecans, toasted and cooled

    Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, sift the flour, cocoa and salt together and set aside. Cream the butter, sugar and cinnamon together until smooth. Add the eggs and egg white one at a time. Add the vanilla and blend until smooth.

    In a small bowl, slowly combine the melted chocolate and milk, stirring until smooth. Add to the butter mixture. Add the baking powder and baking soda until completely blended. Gradually add the cocoa and flour mixture into the batter. Add the chocolate chips and pecans, mixing just until incorporated. The batter should be thick and sticky.

    Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. On a separate sheet of parchment or wax paper, place half the dough. Form a long log, about 2 to 3 inches thick and 12 to 13 inches long. Roll it from the paper onto the cookie sheet. Repeat with remaining batter, leaving several inches between logs. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. The logs should be slightly firm. Let cool to room temperature, then carefully wrap them and cool in the refrigerator for an hour.

    Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Remove the cookies and slice the loaves into 1/2-inch slices. Place them back on the cookie sheet (you will probably need 2 sheets), and bake for 15 to 20 minutes per side, or until dry. Remove and cool on a rack.

    Per serving: 165 calories (percent of calories from fat, 46), 3 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 8 grams fat, 22 milligrams cholesterol, 131 milligrams sodium.

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