Nominated by Ann Ewald:

"My mother grew up surrounded by a family of fantastic cooks who, during the Depression, learned not only to make do with limited funds and resources but also to serve elegant traditional cuisine.

"If my mother and I ever publish a cookbook, it will be titled ' . . . And a Little Chocolate Milk.' Years ago, Mom prepared a delicious meal for us that culminated in a rich, caramely, peach upside-down cake. When I asked her for the recipe, she replied, 'Well, I was going to prepare pineapple upside-down cake, but I only had peaches, and there wasn't any white milk, so I just used a little chocolate milk.'

"This story and the philosophy of cooking behind it epitomizes my mother and her renowned food creations: Know the basics of cooking, enjoy experimenting as you prepare delicious food, and, best of all, make do with what you have."

Growing up in the Midwest during the Depression left an imprint on Dorothy Megarry. The attitude in Dorothy's home was not to focus on what they didn't have in the pantry but how to make the best out of what they did. Her memories are not of privation but of good food served with warmth, joy and love.

A lifetime later, the well-traveled Dorothy is still a "make-do" cook at heart, but one who uses the bounty of today to impart a sense of adventure and fun to those who sit at her table.

Background: "I grew up in the Midwest, in a small town in north-central Iowa called Hampton, and in Minnesota. Much of my early life was strongly influenced by my Dutch/German heritage."

Career: "After graduating from Iowa State Teachers College (now the University of Northern Iowa), I spent several years teaching in Michigan, Utah and Hawaii."

Hobbies, interests: "I love to learn new crafts. Through the years I've enjoyed needlework, sewing, making candles and creating kaleidoscopes. I love to read and exercise regularly at a nearby senior center. We have also traveled to Ireland, Scotland, England, Australia, New Zealand, Cuba, Mexico and Spain."

Who taught you to cook? "When my father died, I went to live with my grandmother, Dora Sikkema. I give her the credit for teaching me the basics of cooking. So many of the techniques that Mama used are now considered the best of 'haute cuisine.' Traditional recipes range from Kukerani cookies (little bridges baked over arched cookie sheets and then topped with white fluffy snow frosting), suet pudding with hard sauce, homemade mincemeat and orange marmalade. I still make these recipes."

Cooking style: " 'Eclectic' is the best definition. I'll try anything. I always try to use what is available locally."

Early food memory: "One of my earliest food memories is coming home from school and having a slice of Mama's warm homemade bread spread with fresh butter and sprinkled with brown sugar. She made it seem so special that I didn't realize it was simply a way of making do during the Depression."

Who do you cook for? "Mostly my family and anyone who needs a little TLC. My husband, Ron, credits my low-cholesterol cooking with keeping him healthy after several bouts with his heart."

What is the most enjoyable aspect of cooking? "I love reading recipes and cookbooks and trying new recipes and having them turn out."

Specialties: "I guess I would have to say baked Alaska -- a truly spectacular dessert. I learned how to make it when I was in college. I used to make it for extra spending money for parties and special occasions."

Culinary achievements: "For several years I was a Betty Crocker home tester for General Mills."

Culinary ambitions: "I always aspired to make the perfect Pavlova. It's a dessert named after the dancer [ballerina Anna Pavlova] and originated in Australia. It's really nothing but egg whites and sugar, but I cannot make it come out right. Mine always kind of droops."

Inspiration in the kitchen: "I love the Food Network. Especially 'Food 911.' "

What is your favorite thing to cook? "Soups and desserts."

What is your favorite thing to eat? "Anything chocolate! Also, coming from a family of outdoorsmen, I have always loved preparing and eating wild game. Pheasant, duck and venison were traditionally served for Christmas Eve dinner. My mother was a real good shot, and so is my daughter."

Culinary pet peeve: "Dull knives."

Memorable flop: "A banana cream pie that turned to soup after the meringue was browned. I remember getting out the bowls and ice cream and announcing that we were going to have 'Tropical Thaw.' "

Do you have a tip for today's cooks? "Be flexible. If you don't have the exact ingredients, use what you have and see if it will work. Follow a recipe the first time, then experiment."

Favorite cookbook: " 'Betty Crocker's Picture Cook Book,' 1950."

If you could prepare a fantasy meal for anybody, who would it be and what would you cook? "I would cook a chicken vegetable dish for my husband with a layered romaine salad. For dessert I'd have homemade ice cream and fresh-baked cookies. This goes back to Ronald's childhood. He had an aunt who lived with the family. When he walked home from school, his Aunt Charlotte would always have warm cookies right out of the oven."

-- Betty Parham

MAIN DISH

Byerly's Wild Rice Soup ˆ la Ginny

Makes 6 servings

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

"This soup comes from Byerly's, a store in Minneapolis," Dorothy Megarry says. "A friend tried to duplicate it and developed this recipe. I've seen the original and I think this is better. We serve this on Christmas Eve."

The recipe calls for 2 cups of cooked wild rice, so have that prepared ahead of time. Megarry likes to make it a day before serving so the flavors have time to meld. Megarry likes the recipe as is, but the original recipe called for 1/2 cup half-and-half and 2 tablespoons sherry added in at the end and heated until warmed through.

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon chopped onions

1 tablespoon sliced green onions

3 tablespoons slivered almonds

1/3 cup finely diced carrots

1 tablespoon finely chopped celery

2 cups cooked wild rice (about 1/2 cup raw)

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon MSG (optional)

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

2 bay leaves

4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 bouquet garni (1 sprig each fresh parsley, marjoram, thyme and basil or 1 teaspoon each dried herbs, tied in cheesecloth)

Pepper to taste

1/3 cup chopped ham

1 skinless, boneless chicken breast, chopped

In a stockpot, melt butter. Add the onions, green onions and almonds and sautŽ until vegetables are slightly softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add carrots, celery, wild rice, sugar, MSG, turmeric, bay leaves, chicken broth, bouquet garni and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove bouquet garni. Add ham and chicken breast and cook for 10 minutes.

Per serving: 267 calories (percent of calories from fat, 24), 37 grams protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 8 grams fat, 78 milligrams cholesterol, 564 milligrams sodium.

Who are the best cooks? We're looking for Georgia home cooks who deserve recognition for their talents and who have interesting recipes to share. Fax at 404-526-5509, e-mail kitchen@ajc.com or write to Betty Parham, Food Department, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303. Give us your name and phone number, as well as the name and number of the cook you'd like us to consider. And tell us a little about what makes this cook special.