Peche Mortel, Brewery Dieu du Ciel, Montreal

• $4.99 / 11.2-ounce bottle in limited quantities at select metro beverage stores, including Green's. Also at the Brick Store Pub (priced higher).

Dieu du Ciel! (ENLARGE)

Peche Mortel.

BOB TOWNSEND BEER PICK E-mail Townsend Related: • More on food and drink • Restaurant reviews and search More Townsend New brews for fall and Oktoberfest  Budweiser American Ale  Craft brewers a perfect fit in Slow Food Nation event  Sweetwater Motor Boat Ale  Weyerbacher Brewing on track, after a struggle  • Bob Townsend is editor of Southern Brew News, a bimonthly beer publication distributed throughout the Southeast.

• Profile: Peche Mortel is a buzz beer in every sense of the word. Beer geeks are buzzing over it, with ultra-high ratings for the intense, espresso-like aroma and flavor of this imperial coffee stout. And because it's 9 percent alcohol by volume, and fair-trade coffee is infused during the brewing process, it packs a special sort of punch. It's produced in very small batches only a few times a year by brewer Jean-Francois Gravel at the tiny Dieu du Ciel brewpub in Montreal and released in even smaller quantities in bottles in the United States. But if you like coffee and beer, Peche Mortel is worth seeking out, even if it is a rather expensive rarity.

• Pair with: Peche Mortel is French for "mortal sin," and this strong coffee ale certainly could be considered a guilty pleasure, with its rich, silky mouthfeel, strong coffee flavor and a bittersweet essence redolent of excellent dark chocolate. In fact, chocolate desserts would make a perfect pairing. And doughnuts would make a really fun match. But all on its own, Peche Mortel works as a perfectly satisfying after-dinner sipper.