Here's how to cook ribs, whole turkeys, chicken, fish or roasts -- foods that require 25 minutes of cooking or more -- by the indirect method.

• Charcoal grills

Place hot coals (allow 25 minutes after lighting to make them properly hot) on either side of the fire grate, or at one end. Place a drip pan (a lightweight foil pan is fine) in the center of the bottom grate or beside the coals gathered at one end. Pour some water into the pan. It will catch drippings and prevent flare-ups.

Place food on the cooking grate, cover with the lid and check the temperature with a grill thermometer every 30 to 40 minutes, adding coals as needed (perhaps 6 to 8 every 30 minutes). For the hybrid "grill-roast" method mentioned in this article, the target temperature is 350-400 degrees.

As the suggested end of cooking time approaches, remove the cover and use an instant-read thermometer to test the internal temperature in the thickest part of the food. Let meat stand 10-20 minutes before carving and serving.

• Gas grills

Gas and electric grills are easier to start and provide temperature readings for the cooking chamber. Because most gas grills have two or three burners, indirect cooking is achieved by lighting one burner on high and heating for 15 minutes. Then place the food over the unlighted burner and cover. Test the temperature of the food as above for doneness. Let meat rest 10 to 20 minutes before carving.

DIRECT VS. INDIRECT

• In direct grilling, the food cooks right over an even layer of coals. The heat is high, and the food sears quickly, perfect for thin, tender items like steaks and boneless breasts.

• For indirect grilling, the charcoal is piled to the sides of the kettle. A drip pan goes between the coals and the lid goes on. The food, surrounded by even heat, cooks slowly.

HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO COOK?

SOME ESTIMATES

These guidelines for cooking times of selected foods cooked over indirect heat come from Weber-Stephen Products Co. and the Chicago Tribune test kitchen.

Meat over medium heat:

• 1 1/2-inch-thick steak: Sear over direct high heat 10 minutes, then 6-8 minutes over indirect medium heat.

• 3 1/2- to 4-pound whole beef tenderloin: Sear over direct heat 20 minutes, then 20-25 minutes with indirect medium heat.

• 2 1/2-pound tri-tip roast: Sear over direct high heat 10 minutes, then 25 minutes with indirect medium heat.

• 4-pound loin pork roast: 1 1/4-1 3/4 hours.

• 6-pound semi-boneless rolled leg of lamb: 2 1/2 hours.

Poultry over medium heat:

• 3 1/2- to 5-pound whole chicken: 1-1 1/2 hours.

• 2-pound turkey breast: 1 1/2-2 hours.

• 5-pound whole duck: 1 1/2-2 hours.

Fish over medium heat:

• 1 pound whole fish: 15-20 minutes.

• 2- to 2 1/2-pound whole fish: 20-30 minutes.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

• Cooks with questions about indirect cooking on a covered grill, or other grilling questions, can call the Weber Grill-Line, 1-800-474-5568, from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays through Labor Day.

• Cookbooks that provide good information on indirect grill cooking include:

"Grilling & Barbecuing" by Denis Kelly (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $29.95). Kelly makes a case for calling the process "indirect roasting" and provides good information on wood and herb flavorings. Recipes are eclectic and upscale.

"The Best Recipe, Grilling and Barbecue" by the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine (Boston Common Press, $29.95). Line drawings illustrate the use of charcoal and gas grills for indirect cooking. Recipes focus on meat and poultry.

"Let the Flames Begin" by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (Morrow, $30). A chatty, intelligent presentation of techniques. Hearty food, often spicy, with colorful garnishes.

"The Barbecue Bible" by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $18.95). Useful comparisons of grills and fuel, plus detailed how-to information and lots of recipes.

-- Chicago Tribune