"Sometimes I think the best part of an herb garden is sitting there and smelling it," he says. "But I think the most satisfying thing would be eating those you had grown."

That's something Lee started doing as a child, helping his grandmother in the kitchen, and he's been spreading the gospel of fresh herbs pretty much ever since, through classes, books and his role as Southeastern chapter president of the International Herb Association.

Here in Georgia, Dell Ratcliffe of Comer also sings the praises of garden herbs, first through a newsletter and retail, now as an educator and advocate.

"Ideally, if you can walk outside and rub and sniff those wonderful aromas and use them in foods, it's well worth the little investment of time" to keep a small herb garden near your home, she says.

Even if you just have a balcony, plant a few of your favorites together in one large pot, say Ratcliffe and Lee. You will still find a few of the heat-heartiest herbs in local nurseries; or you can bide your time until next spring -- the ideal time to start an herb garden -- by splurging on fresh herbs in the grocery store every so often and experimenting with recipes. Lee cautions cooks to start with a gentle hand; fresh herbs shouldn't overpower the main ingredients but rather enhance them.

"The standard rule of thumb is to use two to three times the fresh than the dry," Ratcliffe says. "But you get indescribably wonderful nuances of flavors that you won't get with the dried ones, so it's just a whole new ballgame with the fresh."

ON THE WEB

www.herbmeister.com: Stephen Lee's site includes recipes and tips.

www.iherb.org: The International Herb Association, based in Jacksonville, publicizes herb-related events.

By DEBORAH GEERING / For the Journal-Constitution

Cooking with fresh herbs instead of dried is like painting with a full palette instead of just primary colors: The full palette yields subtleties and nuances that primary colors can only suggest.

Many fresh herbs are available year-round in grocery stores, but nothing is more convenient, cost-effective or plain satisfying as clipping them from your own back-door garden. To get a taste of that feeling in January, try freezing some of your herbs now: Chop and place a tablespoon of each herb in its own compartment in an ice cube tray. Cover with water and freeze. When frozen, place the herb cubes in labeled zip-top bags. Come January, you'll have fresh-frozen herbs to add to soups, stews and sauces.

For now, savor the flavors of summer with these recipes.

MAIN DISH

Rib-eye Steaks With Grilled Fresh Sage Tomatoes

Makes 6 servings Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 18 minutes

Not only do the herbs in these two simple dishes go well with their respective main ingredients, but they also go well together. Soak a few extra sprigs of rosemary in water and toss on the coals when you grill the steaks. Serve this easy summer dinner with fresh corn on the cob and a simple green salad.

3 shallots, thinly sliced

1 1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

6 (8- to 10-ounce) rib-eye steaks

1 large bunch fresh rosemary,

leaves chopped

6 large tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices

1 large bunch fresh sage, leaves chopped

Preheat the grill. Mix shallot slices with olive oil. Sprinkle salt and pepper on one side of rib-eyes. Cook over medium-high heat for 7 minutes. Turn steaks, brush with olive oil mixture and sprinkle more salt and pepper. Press rosemary into cooked side and grill another 2 to 3 minutes.

Brush olive oil mixture on one side of tomato slices, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place over medium-high heat, olive oil side down, for 4 to 5 minutes, until tomatoes have grill marks but are still somewhat firm. Brush uncooked side with olive oil mixture and sprinkle with more salt and pepper. Turn and place minced fresh sage onto cooked side. Grill another 2 to 3 minutes.

Place the steaks on a plate and serve with the tomatoes. Sprinkle with more herbs as desired. -- From Foodnetwork.com

Per serving: 496 calories (percent of calories from fat, 36), 48 grams protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 30 grams fat, 111 milligrams cholesterol, 110 milligrams sodium.

MAIN DISH

Shaker Roasted Tarragon Chicken

Makes 8 servings Preparation time: 2 minutes Cooking time: 1 1/2 hours

A handful of fresh tarragon gives the roasted bird a subtle yet unforgettable flavor. Don't let the pan drippings go to waste; skim the fat and use the juices, along with a tablespoon or two of flour stirred into a 1/4 cup of water, to make a simple gravy.

1 (4-pound) chicken

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 small onion, skin left on and sliced in half

1 small carrot, unpeeled

1 stalk celery

5 sprigs fresh tarragon, or more

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon white pepper, freshly ground

1/2 cup chicken broth

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Remove the bag from the inside of the chicken and discard or reserve for another use. Rub the inside of the chicken with the kosher salt. Place the onion, carrot, celery and tarragon into the cavity of the bird. Oil the exterior of the chicken with the olive oil and season with the pepper.

Set the chicken in a roasting pan, breast side down. Pour the chicken broth into the pan.

Roast the chicken for 45 minutes. Remove from oven, invert chicken, baste well and return chicken to oven. Baste well after 15 minutes and then again after another 15 minutes. If you find that the chicken is browning too quickly, make a tent out of a piece of aluminum foil that has been greased on the side that will touch the bird.

After the chicken has cooked a total of 1 1/2 hours, test doneness by inserting an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh. The chicken is done when the temperature registers 185 degrees. You can also tell if a chicken is done by piercing the thigh with the point of a knife; if the juices run clear, the bird is done.

When the chicken is cooked, remove from oven and immediately remove from the roasting pan to a serving platter. Discard the cavity vegetables and herbs. Garnish with additional fresh tarragon sprigs. Allow the bird to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. -- From "Go Withs" by Stephen J. Lee (Cookbook Cottage Press, 2002, $12)

Per serving: 192 calories (percent of calories from fat, 42), 24 grams protein, 3 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 9 grams fat, 69 milligrams cholesterol, 375 milligrams sodium.

DESSERT

Lavender Crème Brûlée

Makes 4 servings Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 30-40 minutes

There's no such thing as a bad crème brûlée, but this one is particularly heavenly. The preferred technique for caramelizing the sugar on top of the baked custards is to use a kitchen torch, but the broiler works, too.

2 cups heavy cream

1/4 vanilla bean

3 to 4 large sprigs lavender

1/4 cup granulated sugar, plus 2 teaspoons for topping

5 egg yolks

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Select a baking dish that will hold four 6-ounce ramekins and prepare the dish by lining it with several sheets of paper towel. Put a quart of water on to boil.

Pour cream into a medium saucepan. Split the vanilla bean and scoop the seeds into the cream; add the bean as well. Add lavender sprigs. Scald the cream over medium heat until you see small bubbles on the side of the pan.

Meanwhile, in a medium mixing bowl, whisk the 1/4 cup sugar with yolks until pale yellow. When the cream is scalded, pour it through a strainer into a heat-resistant bowl or measuring cup; discard the vanilla bean and lavender. Pour a small amount of the hot strained cream into the yolk mixture and whisk until blended, then slowly mix in the remaining cream.

Divide the mixture among the ramekins. Place in the paper towel-lined baking dish; pour hot water into the dish until it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan with foil. Bake until just set, 30 to 40 minutes.

Carefully remove the pan from the oven; let the ramekins cool in the water bath. Refrigerate two hours or up to two days.

When ready to serve, sprinkle each custard with 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar. Ignite a kitchen torch and with a slow, sweeping motion guide the flame directly on the surface of the first custard. As soon as the surface is glossy brown, move to the next custard. -- From "The Herbal Epicure" by Carole Ottesen (Ballentine, 2001, $16)

Per serving: 536 calories (percent of calories from fat, 84), 6 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 50 grams fat, 429 milligrams cholesterol, 54 milligrams sodium.

CONDIMENT

Bouquet Garni

This neat bundle of herbs is an essential addition to stocks and stews. The herbs are tied so they can be easily removed from the pot. Some chefs include a leafy stalk of celery or the green part of a leek.

1 bay leaf

3 sprigs thyme

4 large sprigs parsley (including stalks)

Tie herbs together with string. Use in soups, stews, sauces, pot roasts -- any savory food that is slow-cooked in liquid. Remove the bouquet garni before serving.

CONDIMENT

Herbal Green Goddess Dressing

Makes 2 1/2 cups or 20 2-tablespoon servings

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Herb enthusiast Linda Mitchell of Walnut Cove, N.C., shared this recipe many years ago with herb rancher Dell Ratcliffe. If you can't find all the herbs, don't worry about it; just substitute more of what you've got. Or try other leafy, mild-tasting herbs in their place. Use this on green salads, potato salads, pasta salads and baked potatoes. (If you don't care for anchovies, substitute four pitted kalamata olives for the anchovy paste and a teaspoon of light soy sauce instead of the Worcestershire.)

1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/3 cup chopped fresh chives

1/4 cup chopped fresh chervil

1/4 cup chopped fresh salad burnet

(or borage or watercress)

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1 tablespoon anchovy paste

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

In a blender or food processor, combine parsley, chives, chervil, burnet, garlic, mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, salt, pepper, anchovy paste and Worcestershire sauce. Store in the refrigerator up to two weeks.

Per serving: 108 calories (percent of calories from fat, 94), 1 gram protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, no fiber, 12 grams fat, 9 milligrams cholesterol, 84 milligrams sodium.

DESSERT

Roasted Anisey Apricots

Makes 4 servings Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

What a surprise: Tangy apricots and tongue-tickling anise go really well together. Serve with a splash of cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

1 tablespoon butter, plus extra for greasing dish

4 apricots, halved and pitted

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup anisette (anise-flavored liqueur)

1 teaspoon chopped bronze fennel

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Lightly butter the bottom of a baking dish. Place the apricots, cut side up, in the dish. Dot with remaining butter; sprinkle each with brown sugar. Pour anisette over the apricots. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until just beginning to brown. Remove from oven, sprinkle with the bronze fennel. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Per serving: 78 calories (percent of calories from fat, 34), 1 gram protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 3 grams fat, 8 milligrams cholesterol, 33 milligrams sodium.

APPETIZER

Artichokes with Fava Beans, Green Onions and Ricotta Dressing

Makes 4 servings Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes

Artichokes don't always have to be served with lemon butter or mayonnaise. This dressing adds texture and unusual complimentary flavors. The artichoke leaves become scoops for the dip.

4 globe artichokes

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 pound fava beans in pods

Sea salt

3 to 4 green onions, trimmed

4 ounces fresh ricotta cheese

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Couple of sprigs of summer savory, chopped

Remove the stem and bottom leaves of the artichokes. Brush with lemon juice. Cut off the top half-inch of the chokes. Brush with lemon juice. Pour any remaining lemon juice into a large saucepan; add a half-inch of water. Place the artichokes right side up in the water or, preferably, on a steamer. Bring the water to a simmer; cover the pot and steam the artichokes for 30 minutes or until tender. To test if they are cooked, pull off a leaf and check the texture of the fleshy tip: it should be soft and yielding so when you bite into it it comes away easily. When they are ready, strain them through a colander and turn them upside down to allow any water inside to drain away. Leave to cool.

Meanwhile make the dressing. Remove the fava beans from the pods. Put them in a saucepan and cover with lightly salted water. Bring to a boil and simmer over a medium heat for about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and refresh them immediately under running cold water. When they are cool enough to handle, skin by gently slitting them open with a fingernail, then pressing them out with your fingers.

Blanch the green onions in a pan of lightly salted water and leave them to simmer 1 to 2 minutes. Drain, refresh them under running cold water and slice them into 1-inch long pieces.

Beat the ricotta until smooth (you may find this easier if you use a food processor). Add mustard and slowly add the olive oil, beating constantly. Do not worry if it separates -- you are not aiming for a mayonnaise-like consistency, more a loose sauce. Finally stir in the prepared fava beans, green onions and summer savory and adjust the seasoning.

Arrange the cooled artichokes on a plate, carefully pull apart a few of the center leaves and spoon over a little of the dressing. Serve with the rest of the dressing in a bowl. -- From "Henrietta Green's Farmer's Market Cookbook" (Kyle Cathie Ltd, $12.99.)

Per serving: 62 calories (percent of calories from fat, 31), 37 grams protein, 82 grams carbohydrates, 18 grams fiber, 24 grams fat, 14 milligrams cholesterol, 176 milligrams sodium.