These dishes + Southern wine = holiday treat


For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 12/20/07

Toast a special occasion — with a Southern wine?

If you choose wisely, you just may find yourself in for a treat. We asked several winemakers and chefs, who have been bold enough to offer these wines to guests, to pair their top picks with a holiday specialty.

LOUIE FAVORITE/Staff
Martha Ezzard likes to serve Tiger Mountain Vineyards' Petit Manseng with her favorite oyster stew.
 
LOUIE FAVORITE/Staff
Woodfire Grill's cheesecake served with Chesser Island Sparkling Muscadine Wine.
 
Louie Favorite/Staff
The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta's turkey breast, served with Braised Brussels Sprouts and Pecan Wild Rice.
 
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HOLIDAY GUIDE

Barrie's Beef Tenderloin on the Grill
12 servings

Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Wine recommendation: Tiger Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc, $23

Barrie Aycock of Glen-Ella Springs Country Inn in the northeast Georgia mountains near Clarkesville is known for supporting local products and frequently plays host to events featuring area wines. Here is one of her favorite dishes for entertaining, which she cooks on an open gas grill and might pair with the cabernet franc from nearby Tiger Mountain Vineyards. She serves it with roasted vegetables and scalloped potatoes.

Tester's notes: With the chilly temperatures, for more consistent heating, we tested it with a closed grill. The most important piece of equipment when grilling a large piece of meat such as this one is an instant-read meat thermometer. It's the most reliable way to judge doneness. If you want to cook with an open grill, allow more time. With such a high quality of meat, this filet stands on its own, but if desired, serve with a bearnaise, or red wine and mushroom sauce.

1 (3 1/2- to 4-pound) beef tenderloin, trimmed
1 tablespoon kosher salt or coarse sea salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
3 large cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil or salad oil

Remove tenderloin from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. In a bowl, combine salt, pepper and garlic. Sprinkle seasoning over entire surface of meat, then drizzle oil over meat and rub in well. If desired, tie meat with twine to make a compact shape, tucking tail under. Set aside while heating grill.

Preheat a gas grill to high. Place beef on grill; sear 2 minutes on each side. Reduce heat to medium-high. Grill until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of beef registers 120 to 125 degrees for rare or 130 to 140 degrees for medium-rare, adjusting temperature of grill as needed to prevent burning, and turning occasionally, about 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to platter; cover loosely with foil and let rest 10 to 15 minutes. Thinly slice beef crosswise.

Per serving: 232 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 29 grams protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace fiber, 12 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 69 milligrams cholesterol, 1,004 milligrams sodium.

Roasted Autumn Vegetables With Gremolata
12 servings

Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 25 minutes

This herb-infused topping dresses up roasted vegetables, transforming them into something quite spectacular. See if you can get a noncook to help with the prep. When making the gremolata, use the food processor to prep the cheese, parsley and garlic as well.

The vegetables:
1 pound carrots, peeled, cut in 3-inch pieces and halved or quartered
1 pound parsnips, peeled, cut in 3-inch pieces and halved or quartered
1/2 pound turnips, peeled, halved and cut into 1-inch-thick wedges
1/2 pound rutabagas, peeled, halved and cut into 1-inch- thick wedges
1 pound brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
1/4 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and coarse ground black pepper

For the gremolata:
3/4 cup pecan pieces, toasted
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

To prepare the vegetables: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. On a large baking sheet, toss carrots, parsnips, turnips, rutabagas and brussels spouts with oil. Scatter evenly and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast vegetables for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until tender, stirring every 10 to 15 minutes to promote even browning and to check on doneness.

To prepare the gremolata: Meanwhile, coarsely chop pecans in food processor; combine with cheese, parsley, lemon zest, garlic, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon oil.

Just before serving, toss vegetables, taste and, if desired, drizzle with remaining lemon juice or oil and sprinkle gremolata over top.

Per serving: 168 calories (percent of calories from fat, 55), 4 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 11 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 1 milligram cholesterol, 69 milligrams sodium.

Aunt Florence's Scalloped Potatoes
12 servings

Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 2 hours to 2 hours, 15 minutes

This gratin — a family favorite from Barrie Aycock's mother — gets extra crunch from bread crumb topping and a little kick from white wine. To quickly prep this dish, use a mandoline for slicing the potatoes, cheese and onions. Just use with caution.

3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
Salt and pepper
3/4 pound Gruyere cheese, thinly sliced or grated
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3/4 to 1 pound Vidalia or other sweet onions, thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
4 tablespoons butter

In a large buttered baking dish, layer 1/3 of the potatoes and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with about 1/3 of the Gruyere cheese and very lightly smear mustard over the cheese. Top with a thin layer of sliced onions. Repeat layers until dish is full (about 3 layers). Press down on mixture and pour wine over. Sprinkle top with bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese and dot with butter. Cover casserole with a well-buttered piece of aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake for 1 hour to 1 hour, 15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender and top is browned. Serve very hot.

Per serving: 301 calories (percent of calories from fat, 44), 13 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 14 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 44 milligrams cholesterol, 244 milligrams sodium.

Linda Beth Loughlin's Oyster Stew
6 servings

Hands on: 50-60 minutes
Total time: 50-60 minutes

Wine recommendation: Tiger Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng (Burton Blanc), $35

Martha Ezzard of Tiger Mountain Vineyards says her mother, Gladys Lewis McElveen, who grew up in Dawson, faithfully served their family oyster stew on Christmas Eve, as her mother had done. But her mother died while Ezzard was in her 20s and she never saw a written copy of the recipe. She has tried many over the years, and the one given to her several years ago by her Rabun County neighbor Linda Beth Loughlin is the one she now swears by. Tiger Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng wine, also known as Burton Blanc, she says, is "the perfect complement — dry, tangy, with enough acid and hints of fruit to cut the stew's creaminess."

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter (do not substitute), divided
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
8 ounces standard-size fresh oysters
Salt and pepper
40 large "select" oysters
1 quart half-and-half
4 to 5 finely crumbled saltines
Oyster crackers

Melt half the butter in a soup pot. Add chopped shallots and simmer until golden, about 20 minutes. Add the standard oysters, sprinkle well with salt and pepper, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. (This overcooks the oysters, but makes a great broth, the key to this recipe.) Add the large oysters and simmer until they begin to curl, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add half-and-half, the saltines and the rest of the butter. Bring to a simmer but do not boil, about 20 minutes. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper, if desired. Serve with oyster crackers.

Per serving: 322 calories (percent of calories from fat, 76), 9 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 28 grams fat (16 grams saturated), 115 milligrams cholesterol, 312 milligrams sodium.

Smoked Trout Tartare With Horseradish and Dill
4 servings

Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes

Wine recommendation: Biltmore Estate Methode Champenoise Blanc de Blancs ($24.99)

This tartare, featured in the "Biltmore Estate Cookbook — From Our Table to Yours" ($26.99) is wonderful served with grilled bread and thin slices of cucumber. If smoked trout is not available, smoked salmon would make a perfect substitute.

8 ounces cold smoked trout, skinned and trimmed
2 tablespoons sour cream
2 tablespoons minced red onion
1 tablespoon capers
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh dill
1 1/2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest, or to taste
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut the trout into small dice and place in a medium bowl. In a second medium bowl, combine the sour cream, onion, capers, dill, horseradish, lemon juice, Tabasco and lemon zest. Gently fold the trout into the sour cream mixture, taking care not to break up the fish; season with salt and pepper. Chill until serving time. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper before serving.

Per serving: 103 calories (percent of calories from fat, 47), 12 grams protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace fiber, 5 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 36 milligrams cholesterol, 60 milligrams sodium.

Slow-cooker Turkey Breast With Braised Brussels Sprouts and Pecan Wild Rice
6 servings

Hands on: 45 minutes
Total time: 4 hours

Wine recommendation: Persimmon Creek Riesling, $22.99

Executive chef Yves Samake of the Ritz-Carlton Atlanta pairs this turkey dish with Persimmon Creek Riesling. He notes: "This is not a very sweet riesling, but more floral and crisp, making it a great match with turkey and the nutty flavors of the pecans and wild rice."

Tester's notes: You may question the Ritz-Carlton using a slow cooker, and you would be correct. The turkey served during the holidays on brunch menus is actually prepared using a method of cooking called sous vide. The ingredients are vacuum packed in a plastic pouch and cooked over a long period of time at a very low temperature. The results are incredibly moist and tender. We've adapted this recipe for use at home by using a slow cooker. While possibly not quite as tender, it's still spectacular. No dry turkey here.

1 bone-in turkey breast, about 5 pounds
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup madeira wine
1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon honey
Braised Brussels Sprouts (see recipe below)
Pecan Wild Rice (see recipe below)

Season the turkey with salt and pepper. Place breast side up in the insert of a slow cooker. Pour over the madeira; add onion, thyme, garlic and honey. Seal with the lid. Cook on high heat for 3 to 4 hours, turning once.

Remove to a clean cutting board and drape with foil. Let the turkey rest before slicing. Pour the broth into a fat-separator or remove the grease with a spoon. Strain the broth into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Keep warm over low heat.

When ready to serve, thinly slice the turkey, then spoon the rice and brussels sprouts onto the plate. Place the turkey on the rice and spoon over some of the reserved warm broth. Serve immediately.

Per serving (turkey breast only): 400 calories (percent of calories from fat, 40), 52 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 17 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 155 milligrams cholesterol, 170 milligrams sodium.

Braised Brussels Sprouts
6 servings

Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 30 minutes

4 slices thick-cut bacon, diced
4 shallots, chopped
1 pound brussels sprouts, halved
3 tablespoons dry sherry
1 cup homemade chicken stock or reduced-fat low-sodium chicken broth
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
6 sprigs parsley, divided
Salt and pepper

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon until browned and crisp. Add the shallots and cook until lightly browned. Add the brussels sprouts and toss to coat. Add the sherry, stock, bay leaf, thyme and 3 sprigs of parsley; season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to simmer. Cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove bay leaf, thyme sprigs and parsley sprigs. Chop the leaves of the remaining 3 sprigs parsley and sprinkle over dish. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

Per serving: 75 calories (percent of calories from fat, 28), 6 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 2 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 4 milligrams cholesterol, 172 milligrams sodium.

Pecan Wild Rice
6 servings

Hands on: 5 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes (plus 40-50 minutes for cooking rices)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 cups cooked white rice, such as basmati
1 1/2 cups cooked wild rice
1 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup dried fruit, such as apricots, cranberries and currants, finely chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat until melted. Add the rice, wild rice, pecans and dried fruit. Stir to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.

Per serving: 328 calories (percent of calories from fat, 47), 6 grams protein, 38 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 18 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 10 milligrams cholesterol, 26 milligrams sodium.

Woodfire Grill's Sweet Potato Cheesecake
8 servings

Hands on: 30 minutes
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, not including chilling overnight

Wine recommendation: Chesser Island Sparkling Muscadine Wine, $10 (at Tower Beer, Wine & Spirits)

Woodfire Grill chef Michael Tuohy has found that this cheesecake, the creation of pastry chef Kristina Weems, pairs remarkably well with Chesser Island Sparkling Muscadine Wine.

Tester's notes: At the restaurant, the cheesecakes are made in individual pans; we've adapted the recipe for one springform pan. For the sweet potato puree, don't use canned sweet potatoes as they are too moist. Bake a couple of small to medium sweet potatoes in their skins until tender. Once cooled, peel and discard the skin. Place the peeled potatoes in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Puree until smooth. Measure 1 cup for the cheesecake and reserve any remaining for another use. The rich, smooth puree marries perfectly with the cream cheese custard.

For the crust:
1 1/2 cups graham cracker or gingersnap crumbs
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:
1 pound cream cheese, room temperature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 eggs, room temperature
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup sweet potato puree
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, or to taste
Small pinch of salt

To prepare the crust: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. To prevent water from seeping into the removable bottom of the springform pan, wrap aluminum foil completely around the bottom and halfway up the sides.

Combine the crumbs, sugar and melted butter in a bowl. Press onto bottom and 1 inch up the sides of the prepared pan. Bake until set, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool. Set aside.

To prepare the filling: In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese, sugar and vanilla on medium-low speed until well-blended.

Add the eggs one at a time, beating well, and scraping down sides of bowl after each addition. Add the flour and sweet potato puree and mix until smooth; season with cinnamon, nutmeg and a small pinch of salt.

Fill the prepared crust and place it in a second pan with sides (to create a water bath). Transfer to the heated oven. Use a teakettle to fill the outer pan with hot water. Bake until the center is almost set, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove to a rack to cool. Once cooled completely, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate to chill thoroughly, preferably overnight. The cake will have pulled away from the edge of the pan. Carefully run a small knife around the edge of the pan. Remove the outer springform ring and foil. Slice and serve.

Per serving: 426 calories (percent of calories from fat, 65), 9 grams protein, 29 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 31 grams fat (18 grams saturated), 162 milligrams cholesterol, 331 milligrams sodium.


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