Moist, light corn bread. Butternut squash soup flavored with pancetta from pigs raised on their farm. Collard greens picked that morning, seasoned with more pancetta.

Charlotte and Wes Swancy were cooking lunch on the day that photographer Joey Ivansco and I visited Riverview Farms. They moved quickly as they sliced the pancetta, folded buttermilk into cornmeal and washed the greens. Charlotte consulted a favorite cookbook, "The Gift of Southern Cooking" by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock, for proportions on the squash soup. She had 4 cups of chicken stock, and the recipe called for 6. No matter. We'd have a thicker soup. No shallots either. No problem; they added other seasonings.

Joey Ivansco/Staff (ENLARGE)

The collards from Riverview Farms are made even more delectable flavored with bacon drippings.

Everything was delicious. Experienced cooks who know how to showcase the fresh flavors of their home-grown food, Charlotte and Wes prepare many of the Swancy family favorites at Thanksgiving, too. Charlotte sent us the recipes, some from Wes' side of the family, some from hers, along with a note about how she learned to prepare them.

The soup, corn bread and collards are just memories now, but the traditions that nurtured them live on. Here is what Charlotte Swancy wrote about the cooks who shaped her holiday meals:

My grandmother made me watch her for years before she would let me attempt to take over the Thanksgiving dressing. I never really followed a recipe; I learned from watching what she was doing and tasting it as it was mixed. She would always tell me that to make a good dressing you have to be able to make good corn bread. If the corn bread is too cakey (stirred too much), the dressing will be drier. I watched her make corn bread every day when I was growing up.

QUEST FOR FRESH

MENU
Puree of Butternut Squash Soup (or Easy Butternut Squash Puree)
Pork Loin With Gristmill Corn Bread Dressing
Tomato Gravy
Apple Chutney
Riverview Farms Collard Greens
Sweet Potatoes Baked in Pastry
Wes' Sour Cream Apple Pie With Oatmeal-Nut Topping

Puree of Butternut Squash Soup

6-8 servings
Hands on: 1 hour Total time: 2 1/2 hours

Using freshly grated nutmeg really ignites the fall flavors in this soup. Try passing the fresh nutmeg and grater at the table. For a thick soup, use the smaller amount of chicken stock.

4 pounds butternut squash
2 slices pancetta or bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 large onion, diced
1 to 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
4 to 6 cups reduced-sodium chicken stock

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Split squash in half; scrape out seeds and fibers. Place squash halves, flesh side down, in a roasting pan lined with parchment or a Silpat. Add 1/2 cup water to pan and bake for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until skin is deeply browned and flesh tender when pierced with knife.

Remove from oven and let rest until cool enough to handle. Scoop out the flesh, discarding the skin.

Put pancetta or bacon in a cold, heavy pot and cook over medium-low heat until it is deeply browned and crisp. Using a slotted spoon, remove the browned bacon pieces. In the fat remaining in pot, sauté the onion and garlic over medium-high heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

Add the thyme, bay leaf, salt, pepper, nutmeg and reserved butternut squash. Stir well, and sauté 5 minutes longer, taking care not to burn the vegetables. Add the 4 cups chicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.

Remove bay leaf from the pot, and puree the soup in a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, until perfectly smooth. Return the soup to the Dutch oven, and bring to a simmer, adding additional broth if too thick. Taste very carefully for seasoning; add more salt, pepper or nutmeg as needed.

Before serving, sprinkle with nutmeg, pepper and cooked pancetta or bacon.

— Adapted from "The Gift of Southern Cooking" by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock (Alfred A. Knopf, $29.95)

Per serving, based on 6: 170 calories (percent of calories from fat, 7), 11 grams protein, 33 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 1 gram fat (trace saturated fat), 2 milligrams cholesterol, 1,101 milligrams sodium.

Gristmill Corn Bread

8 servings
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes

Old-fashioned and delicious, this corn bread is excellent on its own or as the primary ingredient in the corn bread dressing.

4 tablespoons canola oil, divided use
1 cup white or yellow cornmeal (not self-rising or mix)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fine salt
1 egg
2 cups buttermilk, divided use

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Place 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet and transfer to the oven to heat. Meanwhile, combine the cornmeal, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. In second bowl or large liquid measuring cup, combine the egg, the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and 1 cup of the buttermilk. Pour the liquid into the dry mixture. Do not overmix. Add the remainder of the buttermilk. Remove the heated skillet from the oven and pour the batter into the hot skillet.

Return to the oven and bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Per serving: 158 calories (percent of calories from fat, 47), 4 grams protein, 17 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 8 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 29 milligrams cholesterol, 401 milligrams sodium.

Apple Chutney

8 servings
Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes

A delightful alternative to traditional cranberry sauce, this sweet and savory chutney is the perfect complement to roast turkey.

1/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup warm water
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 medium sweet onion
1 red bell pepper, seeded, cored and chopped, or 1/4 cup fresh cranberries, chopped
2 Granny Smith apples, cored and chopped
1 Bosc pear or sweet apple, cored and chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger
1/4 tablespoon lemon zest
1/4 tablespoon orange zest
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon brown or yellow mustard seed
1/8 teaspoon ground coriander
1/8 teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon curry powder
Pinch allspice
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the golden raisins in a medium bowl. Pour over the 1/4 cup warm water. Set aside to plump. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. Add the onion and red bell pepper. Cook until the onion is soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the apple and pear and cook, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger, lemon zest, orange zest, vinegar, 2 tablespoons water, brown sugar, mustard seed, coriander, cumin, curry powder and allspice. Drain the raisins, discarding the water. Add raisins and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until dry, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a shallow bowl to cool.

Per serving: 80 calories (percent of calories from fat, 21), 1 gram protein, 16 grams carohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 2 grams fat (trace saturated), no cholesterol, 3 milligrams sodium.

Riverview Farms Collard Greens

8 servings
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 25 to 55 minutes

To clean dirty greens, fill a sink with cold water. Add the greens and swish them around in the water, letting the dirt fall to the bottom. Using your hands, scoop the greens from the water, leaving the dirt at the bottom of the sink. Drain, clean, and refill the sink. Repeat the process until the greens are clean and free of dirt.

1 quart water
1/4 cup bacon drippings
1/4 cup rice vinegar
2 large bunches collards, tough stems removed
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the water, bacon drippings and vinegar to a boil over high heat. Add the collards and reduce heat to simmer; season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender or according to preference, 15 to 45 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.

Per serving: 63 calories (percent of calories from fat, 93), trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace fiber, 7 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 7 milligrams cholesterol, 54 milligrams sodium.

Pork Loin With Corn Bread Dressing

8 to 10 servings
Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 35 minutes

Recipe tester Virginia Willis thought the technique of baking the dressing around the roast was brilliant. "The dressing helps keep the meat moist, and the meat flavors the dressing; it's an excellent combination." Charlotte Swancy adds that if it seems the meat is getting done before the dressing, you should take the meat out and keep cooking the dressing. "It is important to have enough moisture in the dressing so that the meat won't dry out," she says.

2 recipes cooked corn bread (see recipe, K9)
1 slice white bread
1 medium sweet onion, diced (about 1 cup)
2 bunches green onions, chopped (about 1 cup)
3 ribs celery, chopped (about 1 cup)
6 eggs
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
3 cups homemade chicken stock, reduced- sodium chicken broth or pork stock
1/4 cup water chestnuts, chopped (optional)
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon white pepper
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup canola oil
1 (4- to 6-pound) center cut boneless pork loin
1/4 cup red wine vinegar or rice vinegar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Crumble the corn bread and bread into a large bowl. Add the sweet onions, green onions and celery. In another bowl, whisk the eggs and butter. Add to the dry mixture and then add the stock one cup at a time until it is very wet and soupy. Add the water chestnuts, cayenne pepper and white pepper. Season with salt and pepper; set aside.

Heat the oil in a large stovetop and ovenproof roasting pan (with a lid) over medium-high heat until shimmering. Season the pork loin with salt and pepper. Add the pork loin, fat side down. Sear on all sides until rich golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes total. Remove from the heat to let cool slightly. Pour over the vinegar, being careful to avoid the fumes as the vinegar hits the hot pan. Add the reserved corn bread dressing to the sides of the pan to surround the pork loin. Cover with a tightfitting lid. Transfer to the oven and bake until the pork loin registers 145 degrees, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven to let the meat rest and the juices redistribute, 10 to 15 minutes. (The temperature will continue to rise.)

Remove the pork loin to a cutting board. Thinly slice the pork and serve with the tomato gravy and corn bread dressing on the side.

Per serving based on 8: 832 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 58 grams protein, 39 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 48 grams fat (14 grams saturated), 347 milligrams cholesterol, 1,164 milligrams sodium.

Butternut Squash Puree

8 servings
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes

As an easy alternative to soup, tester Virginia Willis devised this rich and smooth puree made in the microwave — a handy dish for the holidays, when the ovens are normally full.

3 large butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
2 to 4 tablespoons heavy cream, optional
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the butternut squash in a microwave safe bowl. Add butter and nutmeg; season with salt and pepper. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or seal with a microwave safe lid. Microwave on high heat until the squash is tender to the point of a knife, about 10 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Puree until smooth, about 5 minutes. Add heavy cream and puree until smooth. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warm bowl and serve immediately.

Per serving: 313 calories (percent of calories from fat, 9), 6 grams protein, 75 grams carbohydrates, 11 grams fiber, 4 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 8 milligrams cholesterol, 26 milligrams sodium.

Tomato Gravy

16 servings
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes

This gravy is a wonderful accompaniment to the pork loin. It can be made ahead and reheated just before serving. Make sure the milk is room temperature, not cold, or the gravy will be lumpy.

1 cup canola oil, bacon drippings, or oil and bacon drippings mixed
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
3 to 4 cups whole milk, room temperature
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, lightly drained
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a deep, nonreactive skillet over medium heat. Add the flour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until blond-colored, 3 to 5 minutes. Add 3 cups milk, whisking constantly until blended and smooth. Add tomatoes with some of the juice. Bring to a boil over high heat until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Adjust the thickness by adding more milk, if needed. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.

Per serving: 173 calories (percent of calories from fat, 78), 3 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 16 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 6 milligrams cholesterol, 27 milligrams sodium.

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Sweet Potatoes Baked in Pastry

12 servings
Hands on: 1 hour
Total time: 2 1/2 hours (not including pie dough recipe)

This beautiful side dish or dessert (like candied yams, it could go either way) takes a little time, but the delicious results are more than worth it. The tender pastry can be a little tricky to work with, so if you're short on time or not up for the challenge, you can substitute ready-made pie crusts, which you will have to roll and trim to fit.

2 cups water
2 cups granulated sugar
1 stick Ceylon cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3 tablespoons bourbon or cognac
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided use
2 recipes Basic Pie Dough, below
8 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced lengthwise about 1/3 inch thick

Put the water, sugar and stick of cinnamon in a medium saucepan and set over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring just until the syrup is dissolved, then cook 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the nutmeg, bourbon (or cognac) and salt. Let cool completely. (May be prepared to this point the day before baking and stored, covered, at room temperature.)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Using 1 teaspoon of the butter, lightly butter the bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking dish. On a lightly floured surface, roll slightly more than half the dough into a large rectangle (about 1/16 inch thick) that will fit into and overhang the sides of the baking dish, and carefully fit into the sides and corners. Use a knife or scissors to trim any overhanging dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border; reserve the trimmings for the filling.

Roll out the remaining batch of dough in a rectangle about 14 inches long and 1/8 inch thick. Using a knife or pastry wheel, cut into 1/2-inch strips, lengthwise. Set aside 14 of these strips for the lattice top; reserve any remaining dough for filling.

To assemble, arrange a layer of the sliced sweet potatoes in the bottom of the pastry-lined baking dish, overlapping slightly if necessary. Scatter some of reserved pastry trimmings over potatoes. Continue layering until all potatoes are used. Pour the syrup evenly over the potatoes. Cut the remaining butter into small pieces and scatter over the final layer of potatoes. Now lay 8 strips of pastry lengthwise over the top, leaving about 1/2 inch between, then arrange the remaining strips vertically on top, at an angle, to form a nice lattice pattern, trimming the strips as necessary. Fold the edges of the pastry onto the rim of the dish all around, and crimp lightly to seal.

Place the dish in the middle of the preheated oven and bake for about 1 hour, or until the sweet potatoes are tender and glazed and the pastry is a rich golden brown. (If the pastry begins to brown before the potatoes are tender, simply lay a piece of aluminum foil, shiny side up, over the top to prevent further browning.) Allow to cool at least 20 minutes before serving. Serve hot or at room temperature.

— Adapted from "The Gift of Southern Cooking" by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock (Alfred A. Knopf, $29.95)

Per serving: 551 calories (percent of calories from fat, 39), 5 grams protein, 79 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 24 grams fat (13 grams saturated), 52 milligrams cholesterol, 506 milligrams sodium.

Basic Pie Dough

Enough pastry for a 9-inch pie
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 2 1/2 hours

You will need to double this recipe for Sweet Potatoes Baked in Pastry.

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon granulated sugar
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces and frozen for 10 minutes
2 tablespoons lard (or shortening), cut into 2 pieces and frozen for 10 minutes
4 to 6 tablespoons ice water

Put flour, salt and sugar on a large cutting board, and mix them with your fingers to blend.

Put the frozen butter and lard on top of the flour mixture, and use a large kitchen knife or pastry cutter to cut the fats quickly into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal, with some butter and lard pieces still as large as 1/2 inch in diameter. Ideally, half the fat should be cut finely into the flour and the other half left in larger chunks.

Working quickly, gather the flour-fat mixture into a mound and, using your fingers, draw a trench lengthwise through the center.

Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the ice water down the length of the trench, and with your spread, upturned fingers fluff the flour so that it incorporates the water. Redraw the trench and continue incorporating the ice water by tablespoon in the same manner. After you have incorporated 4 tablespoons of the water, the dough should begin to clump together into large pieces. If there are any unclumped areas, sprinkle them lightly with droplets of water, and mix as before.

Gather the dough into a mass with a pastry scraper, and, again working quickly, with the heel of your hand smear a hunk of dough roughly the size of an egg by pushing it away from you.

Continue with pieces of dough until the entire mass has been processed this way (you'll do about 6 smears in all). When finished, gather all the dough together with a pastry scraper and repeat the process. Regather the dough, quickly shape it into a flat disc, wrap it in a double thickness of plastic wrap, pressing firmly with the palm of your hand to flatten the wrapped dough further and bind it. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight before rolling and using. Proceed with the recipe.

Tester's notes: Because the dough has a high fat content, it can be a little tricky to work with. One way to give yourself a little flexibility is to roll it out between two very lightly floured pieces of parchment paper. That way, if the dough gets too soft to work with, you can pick it up, parchment and all, slide it onto a baking sheet and stick it in the refrigerator or freezer for a few moments. To transfer the dough to the baking dish, peel off the top layer of parchment, and use the bottom layer to lift and flip the dough into the dish. Once you get it lined up over the dish, peel back the remaining sheet of paper and ease the dough into the baking dish.

— Adapted from "The Gift of Southern Cooking" by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock (Alfred A. Knopf, $29.95)

Per serving: 216 calories (percent of calories from fat, 62), 3 grams protein, 18 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 15 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 31 milligrams cholesterol, 237 milligrams sodium.

Wes' Sour Cream Apple Pie With Oatmeal-Nut Topping

8 servings
Hands on: 30 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes

Wes Swancy developed this recipe years ago while working at a natural foods bakery in Athens.

8-10 cups peeled sliced apples (10-12 medium apples)
1 cup sour cream
1/2 cup maple syrup or honey
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 (9-inch) prepared pie crust
Topping:
1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups rolled oats
2/3 cup butter
1/2 cup maple syrup or honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

To make filling: In a steamer basket set in a large pot over a few inches of water, steam the apples, covered, for 5 minutes or until barely softened. In a large bowl, combine the apples, sour cream, syrup, flour, vanilla, salt and cinnamon. Stir together until the apples are well-coated. Place the filling in the pie crust. (The crust should be nearly brimming over with apples.)

To make topping: Mix together walnuts or pecans, flour, cinnamon, salt and oats. In a saucepan, melt the butter and maple syrup or honey. Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla. Add the butter mixture to the flour mixture and mix well.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Spread topping over the apples until covered. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake for 40 minutes or until the apples are soft and the topping is brown.

Per serving: 557 calories (percent of calories from fat, 50), 8 grams protein, 64 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 32 grams fat (14 grams saturated), 54 milligrams cholesterol, 376 milligrams sodium.