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WEEKEND GARDENER-WALTER REEVES

Fertilizer for sago palm


Special
Published on: 11/09/06

Sago palm

Q: A neighbor told me that a good fertilizer for a sago palm is something called "earth salt." What is that material?

Walter Reeves
Sago palm is not a palm but a cycad. Even so, it requires the same micronutrients that true palms need.
 
WALTER REEVES
Walter Reeves

Walter Reeves' answers to readers' questions
Lawn calendarTurf weeds

NED BECKER

Tybee Island

A: I have no idea. Perhaps your neighbor meant Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). Sagos, like all palms, need a specially enriched fertilizer in order to thrive. Manganese, magnesium, iron and potassium are vitally important to keep the plants healthy. Feed your sago palm with a fertilizer specifically labeled for palms and their kin. It will have all the micronutrients they need.

Bushes vs. oaks

Q: We recently bought some rural property that has quite a few lovely old oaks. At the base of the trees are thick hedge bushes. How can we get rid of them without hurting the oaks?

VICKI DAVIS

Bartow County

A: Since you are so attached to the trees, I think this is a situation where it is better to be safe than sorry. I don't think you should use an herbicide. I know of a situation where a public institution decided to remove a couple of large crape myrtle trees that lined a sidewalk. Rather than pull them out, they sawed the plants off at ground level and painted Roundup on the stumps to prevent resprouting. Unfortunately, they didn't realize that adjoining crape myrtle roots had grafted to each other underground. Consequently, the Roundup was transported from the stumps to nearby trees, which died. On the slim chance that the bushes under the oaks have grafted to the oak roots, don't spray them with weedkiller. Instead, cut the bushes at ground level and continue removing sprouts for a year. By that time, the shade and the lack of leaves on the bushes will kill them without harming your big trees.

Weed control

Q: I cannot find pre-emergents for centipede grass at the local garden stores. What ingredient do I search for to use on my lawn?

SARA BATTEN

Coffee County

A: I think most, if not all, pre-emergent herbicides are labeled for use on centipede grass. The window of opportunity to prevent winter weeds is almost closed for this season, but you can attempt partial control by using a pre-emergent now. If you have emerged broadleaf weeds like chickweed or henbit, either pull them or use an herbicide. You may be aware of the problems that occur from overusing weedkillers on centipede. Choose an herbicide specifically labeled for use on centipede or St. Augustine grass, and use it sparingly.

Old jonquils

Q: For 30 years, I have planted yellow jonquil bulbs in the open spaces among trees and other ornamentals in my backyard. I've recently had to relocate some of the plants. In doing so, I've sliced up many jonquils. Even so, I've recovered a nice sack of healthy bulbs. Rather than plant them and damage more jonquils, can I leave the bulbs outside in a plastic bag, then plant them in spring when leaves appear on those already in the ground?

ANN MALLARD

Roswell

A: You have a great common-sense idea, but take it a little further. Why not plant the bulbs in good soil in individual cardboard cups from which the bottoms have been removed? You could put a bunch of the cups side by side in a plastic nursery flat and put it on the ground outdoors. In this way the bulbs would get natural cold conditioning, and they'd grow good roots, which would be better for them when planted in the empty spots next spring.

Pussy willow

Q: I have a pussy willow tree that is so tall I never see the blooms in the spring. Are you supposed to cut these trees back? When?

SHERRI BELL

e-mail

A: You're lucky to have a pussy willow, Salix discolor, grow so tall. They are host to a multitude of insects and diseases that severely limit their life span in Georgia. Pussy willow must be pruned regularly to keep it small enough to enjoy the fuzzy springtime catkins. Most willows have multiple trunks, so that's how I'll base my advice. In January, examine the trunks to distinguish the young ones (brown bark) from the old ones (gray bark). Cut a few of the oldest branches down to 12 inches tall. Does this reduce the plant's size so you can enjoy the flowers? If not, repeat the process in winter the following year. Prune as needed every winter thereafter.

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