DO IT YOURSELF

Factors to consider in tankless water heaters

McClatchy/Tribune

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Q. We need to replace our water heater and are thinking of getting a tankless, gas-fueled heater. Is the energy saving of tankless heaters worth the extra upfront cost?

A. Typical gas-fired tankless water heaters use about 20 percent less energy than typical tank-type water heaters using gas for fuel. Another advantage is that you won’t have a large tank full of water sitting somewhere in your house.

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But the good news more or less ends there. As you have already learned, tankless water heaters cost considerably more than tank-type heaters, and the installation cost is significantly more. According to some estimates I have seen, it takes about 20 years to pay the equipment and installation costs of tankless water heating through fuel savings, assuming there are no additional costs for service or repairs. And after 20 years, the tankless heater will probably need replacement or a major overhaul.

Anyone considering a tankless water heater should read a report in the October 2008 issue of Consumer Reports magazine. This article has some specific figures on costs and savings and offers some important information on performance. The magazine is currently on sale at bookstores and newsstands and is on file at some public libraries.

Q. I am replacing the carpet in our basement. The old carpet is laid over asbestos tiles. Is there anything I can put over the tiles to seal in the asbestos and provide a moisture barrier?

A. If the floor has a moisture problem, it should be cleared up before carpet is installed. Remove the old carpet and tape several pieces of aluminum foil about a foot square to various areas of the tiles. It is best to do this test during or after a hard rain. Pull up the foil in a week or so and check the bottom surface — if there is moisture on it, the floor has seepage. Moisture on the top side of the foil is condensation.

Seepage in a basement floor can be caused by overflowing rain gutters, poor drainage around the house, or a high water table.

If the tiles are in good condition, there is no need to worry about sealing in asbestos — it is already sealed in by the cement in the tiles. Asbestos is only a hazard if the tiles are broken or crumbling, when particles might get into the air and be breathed.

If the floor proves to be dry, you can spread a layer of plastic sheeting over it before laying the carpet. I personally favor loose-laid area rugs in basements. If a flood situation looms, the rugs can be rolled up and placed out of harm’s way.

Q. How can I remove the odor of cat urine from my hardwood floor?

There are a number of special products for removing pet odors from various surfaces, including floors and carpets. Some of the products will also remove other organic stains and odors, such as vomit and blood.

A. One of the best-known products is Nature’s Miracle Stain & Odor

Remover. It is sold at some pet stores and is widely available online in a variety of containers including spray bottles.

Pet stores might offer other brands, but be sure to check the directions to make sure the product is suitable for hardwood floors. I also recommend testing any product in an inconspicuous place on the floor before using it in highly visible areas.

Quick Tip

Pulling a piece of tape from a roll of duct tape or masking tape can be difficult if you have left the end of the roll stuck tightly to the tape underneath it. To avoid this, pull an extra inch of tape loose before you cut or tear off the piece you will use. Then fold the loose end back on itself to form a tab that can be easily grasped and pulled the next time you want tape.