There’s no good way to fix floorboard gaps

Q: Our older house has beautiful wood floors that we want to sand and refinish, but we are looking for a solution to the gaps between many of the floorboards. Any suggestions?

A: There are several approaches to repairing gaps between floorboards, none of them very satisfactory. The gaps are caused by shrinkage in the wood, and the boards will continue to shrink and expand slightly depending on climate conditions.

Any of the so-called solutions for this problem will detract from the appearance of the floor. They are also an enormous amount of work and might cause other problems.

For example, filling the gaps with matching wood filler is sometimes recommended; this doesn’t work well because the normal shrinkage and expansion of the boards will cause the filler to crack and fall out or pop out.

Another suggestion is to cut strips from matching wood and glue them into the gaps; this is impractical because the gaps vary so much in width that it is next to impossible to make attractive fillers.

A third approach is to take up the floorboards and reinstall them without gaps, but if the boards are of the tongue-and-groove type, many of the boards will be badly damaged or ruined in the process.

The best option is to learn to live with the gaps. Vacuum the floors frequently or dirt will make the gaps more conspicuous.

Nailheads in a cedar fence

Q: We recently had a cedar fence installed and noticed that the nailheads are sunk into the wood, leaving small holes. Will this be a problem if moisture gets into the holes? Also, should we apply a protective finish to the fence?

A: Small black streaks sometimes develop under nailheads in cedar. If they bother you, they can be removed with a deck cleaner. If you want to fill the holes, use exterior-grade wood filler, sold at most home centers and hardware stores.

I have had a cedar fence for about 30 years without any finish, and it still looks OK. If left unfinished, the wood will turn gray; a deck cleaner can restore the original color.

If you want to finish the cedar, use a deck stain. A semitransparent stain will let the grain show through; a solid-color stain will hide the grain but usually lasts longer.

Removing pine sap from a car

Q: How can I remove pine sap from my car’s paint and windshield?

A:Several solvents will soften pine sap so it can be removed from various surfaces.

Moisten the sap with solvent, using a rag, and let it work for several minutes. When the sap has softened, scrape off as much as possible with a plastic scraper of the type used to clean auto windshields. Work carefully to avoid scratching the surface. Remove residue by rubbing with a little more solvent, then rinse with water. Test any solvent first in an inconspicuous place to make sure it doesn’t damage the surface.

Solvents that should work are Goo Gone, sold at many supermarkets; mineral spirits (paint thinner); and denatured alcohol. Some people say they have used household products such as mayonnaise, butter or Crisco.

Quick tip: Here is a recipe for a deck and siding cleaner: Mix one part chlorine bleach with four parts of water. To each gallon, add one tablespoon of TSP (trisodium phosphate or a phosphate-free substitute, sold at paint stores), or enough powdered detergent to make the solution sudsy. Be careful not to add any cleaner that contains ammonia, since a dangerous gas can be produced. The cleaner might damage nearby plants, so soak plants thoroughly before using and rinse them well afterward. Apply the cleaner with a brush, let it work for about 10 minutes, then rinse.